colmiller
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I'm interested to know what filler wire you plan to use to weld in the stainless rad pipes to your mild steel cross members? With the inevitable vibration any brittleness in the joint will lead to troublesome stress fractures.
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I've had a search through the forums 'brake upgrade' messages and can't find reference to using these on a TR7. I've just been offered a pair of complete front struts from an 85 3500SE. How much modification am I looking at to use the 4 pot calipers on my 76 TR7 ? Is there any chance the result would fit inside 13 inch alloy wheels? If everything fits would I need to change the master cylinder? Regards, Colin
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Its definitely Ag Pipe. Comes in 75, 90 & 100 mm diameters. We use it all the time to drain agricultural land. Some times it has slots along the length & sometimes it is surrounded by a woven bag. Cheap as chips but a great use for it.
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Thanks everybody. The wood trim is no problem, nor the window winder (I found it easy to get the retaining pin out but a prick to get back in) and the spring clips around the edge although stiff and a bit rusty are manageable. Its just when all that is done the trim still feels to be fixed around the arm rest. I'm now wondering if a previous owner has tried gluing it to the door. Its forecast to be 43 degrees here today so I might leave it until the cool change comes through before I try again.
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I need to remove the front door trims on my TC2500 build number 2MM31800DLO. Its an Australian built car by AMI in Melbourne. I need to get at the locks as my key which works in both the ignition and the boot wont move in either door lock. It used to. My Haynes manual tells me to remove the 2 screws on the arm rest and remove the rest, which is what I would have expected. However the rest still doesn't budge and is obviously still secured toward the top of the rest. I checked a couple of spare arm rests I acquired with the car and they both have a second set of Phillips screws that come into the arm rest from within the door. Whats the secret to getting at this top row of screws?
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Driving home yesterday I had my engine in my normally reliable TC2500 die completely. I've got fuel so logic says it must be spark. After swapping points & coil to no avail I'm currently waiting for a tow truck to pick it up and bring it home. Always assuming its still there of course. I had my fill of points ignition systems 50 years ago and don't want to relive the past. So I thought I would ask what others had installed in the way of electronic ignition systems. Any advice gratefully received. Colin
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Thanks guys, Rod, I have emailed Midel I'll have to wait for our public holiday lethargy to wear off before I get a reply but at least they are close. I'll let you know. I have the same manual as you which doesnt show things too clearly. I believe the upgrade/retro fit will completely replace the waxstat with a new assembly that will be adjustable in the usual manner. Tony, Yes there must be a couple of versions. The slow running screw is just a blanking plug but my jet assembly is as shown in Rods drawing, a whole new type of sealed unit. Alec, Thanks I have checked all those sort of things. Now that I am starting to understand these units a little They may not be as bad as I first thought. The excessive richness is only when cold. As the under bonnet temp rises it does get better ( which is how the things are supposed to work). I still prefer the idea of being in control and plan to swap them out when able. Thanks again everybody. I will keep you posted. Colin
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Good idea Alec.
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That was the advice from Burlen. Unfortunately they are on back order atm but I will report back when I receive them.
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My goodness Burlen are on the ball. I had an email reply from their tech services people within hours of sending my enquiry from the other side of the world. There is indeed a kit available to retro fit standard jets to HS6 carbies and at less than 20 quid. Interesting as replacement Capstar jets are 50% more expensive. Part numbers are AUE1118 & AUE1119. I assume for front & rear carbies.
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I agree those seals look like they were made for the job. I can't see them moving much. If loctite dosn't do the job you could always tap a grub screw into the collar.
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Thanks Laurence, I did find a US Triumph site where the recommendation was to remove the wax cartridge and replace it with a couple of coins. I guess that means its possible to tune for idle mixture by changing the thickness of the coin spacers. Sounds effective but fiddly I wonder if a bolt threaded into the base would work (screw the bolt up to weaken - down to enrich). I may give that a try.
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Months after finding out about the packing pieces under the engine mounts that allow access to the retaining bolts on the air filter I have finally got a new set of mounts fitted correctly (my excuse is that its been winter in Sydney). The old mounts were completely destroyed leaving the engine sitting directly on the cross member. Now that I can get at my carbies I find that they are the "Tamper Proof" variety that don't provide for mixture adjustment. I've never seen these before ! My engine is running very rich at idle and I need to do something about it. Does anyone know if its either possible to adjust the mixture on these or even better retro fit the usual mixture screw arrangement. Is this an aberration only fitted to Ozzie built 2500TC ?
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You must all be clairvoyant, I had no idea I needed new mounts. When I got into it I found the drivers side mount had sheared diagonally across the rubber and the other side mount the rubber had come adrift from the steel and had slipped around about half the length of the rubber. Basically the engine is just sitting there by force of gravity. No wonder there is no clearance to get the carbies off (my original question). I have found several places in Sydney where I can buy new mounts and have chosen one close to home so I can take them back if they prove to be as inadequate as you all suggest they may be. The price in ozzie dollars is between $30 & $40 each. All the UK based sources want far too much for freight so I'll keep you posted on how the quality works out. Bye, Colin
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Many thanks again. After further inspection this afternoon I discover that the left (alternator) side mount has 1 packing piece and the rt (carb) side has none. Hence the tilt to the right. No wonder there is no room. Looking through the boxes of bits I found in the boot there is a spare packing piece. So with the one on the left transferred to the right plus the spare I should be OK. So my guess is that a previous owner either did an engine swap or had this one out and made a mess of re-mounting the thing. My engine number does start with MM so now I'll get under the back and see what I might find there.