glang

I think youve got it. The starter appears to be a non pre-engaged type so I think when the engine was started the other day it threw the pinion back out as usual but its now got stuck on the rust and gunk of 12 years of inactivity. It might knock free with a piece of wood but I think its probably best to remove the starter to clean and lube the helix....

What I do in this situation is connect jump leads onto the starter motor terminal and body and then onto the battery terminals to prove the starter motor. Then by a process of elimination work backwards to find the problem. However believe you might have a pre-engaged starter which makes it a bit more complicated...

Has the battery lost charge at all - if left connected maybe there was a drain?

Only of course the feel of the pedal, has it got the same resistance as usual in which case it must be operating the clutch pressure plate?

Sorry I misread your initial post and thought youd put the valve after the pump so of course it would have been the wrong way round. See now you had it correct with the arrow in the direction of flow to the pump👍 Anyway the only way fuel can leak from the pump (assuming not from its joints and connections etc) is if the diaphragm is punctured and like this it can also leak fuel into the engine so worth smelling your engine oil. However do check first its not coming from elsewhere... Ive never heard of reactivating of the diaphragm as once punctured its got to be changed. If the pump is emptying itself air has to be pulled in from the carb(s) all the way back through the pump discharge non return valve and into the pump chamber and then through its inlet non return valve and off to the tank. Obviously better non return valves will slow this but also check youre not pulling a partial vacuum in the fuel tank (fuel cap vent must be clear) and also keep the tank level high to stop the syphon effect (this is also helpful to reduce corrosion in the tank).

oh dear, the arrow on the valve should have been pointing to the carbs as thats where you want fuel to go to. Now on starting the flow was blocked so pressure has built up and probably damaged the diaphragm in the pump so that in now leaks. I think youre going to need to dismantle the pump and install a new diaphragm☹️ You know theres already two non return valves in the pump and if good should stop fuel flow back?

If youre 100%, 100% sure the hydraulics are working the release mechanism then keep going and it will free especially as it hasnt been left that long, although you might have to be a more brutal.... And maybe some sort of heater left underneath to warm the bell housing over night would help?

ummm Id want them in chrome/stainless too which makes it even more complicated☹️

Yes or do same but then dab brakes with clutch pedal down. Really need 3 feet or wind idle up a bit to have some engine revs at same time will help

That settles it then, plus 100ish for the rebore and jobs a good'un👍

Thats new pistons then though!

Do you think it depends on the out of round of the bore? If so I suppose it would be difficult to put a limit....

When you think about it new rings in an old bore will surely struggle to seal as they will be round and the bore a slightly different shape. I suppose eventually, depending on amount of bore wear, the new rings might settle in to fit the shape and seal properly...

Yes I think theres a lesson to be learned for all here😩

You sir are very brave! With the sun gears thrust the manual says the range of thicknesses is 34.5 - 37.5 thou so back in the day selection was just find the best fit (😂) from the parts bin. However I didnt think freeplay between sun and planet gears was too important (in a straight line theyre not even in use) and they certainly dont generate noise.....