glang

Yes as Wendy said, Canleys do the pipe and all the other big suppliers, for yours think part number is 206085S...

Ah ok thanks. I think on the vitesse you can thread the pipe in and out without touching much else🤔

Oh dear now I do feel bad but I thought you could get the pipe out to inspect it first without removing the manifolds☹️

If all the checks Clive recommends are ok I would suggest changing the front and rear oil seals on both engine and gearbox (also provides a chance to check cam chain and tensioner) as these are very cheap and easy to do while its out of the car...

Will you buy the new pipe beforehand or wait until youve removed and inspected the old one? Generally its pretty easy to know if an engine is running hot as it starts to pink (rattling noise as you accelerate), struggles to maintain idle and smells hot. Then helpfully before any damage can happen the radiator cap lifts and dumps steam everywhere (unless youre using waterless coolant of course)! All a gauge would do is give you a bit of advance warning that this is about to happen...

Yes could be the pipe but could also be spraying from the core plug immediately behind onto it...

Think theres also the valve guides to consider as these were originally reamed to suit the valve stems so might be tight or loose with replacements. With the seats you would know whether lapping is going to work fairly quickly because as soon as you start you'll see how good the contact is between the two. You can always go back to the original valves and continue by lapping those in instead....

Heres what my Vitesse/GT6 Triumph workshop manual says:

Certainly looks like it but be very careful its not the larger 60mm diameter one. The page doesnt say which size it is...

Should have added that unfortunately afaik theyre not made now so its NOS or secondhand and that makes them expensive. In the end you can get a new master cylinder with large plastic reservoir for pretty much same money...

Yes with the small reservoir really recommend adding an extender, Girling part number 64947008 (dont get the larger size one), as this increases capacity and lets you see a drop in level without removing the cap...

Try to get a good look behind the exhaust manifold with a bright light and mirror as theres also a core plug there that is prone to leaking. Think the pipes are available in stainless...

The wonderful internet says its a 1300 engine from a Toledo or Dolomite (probably the former being the earlier one)...

As the block and head surfaces are identical on non recessed units it doesnt matter which way up the gasket goes...

Well suncream certainly gives UV protection but of course wouldnt last in rain☹️

Heres some stuff. Bit expensive and no idea if it works but given the price of those window rubbers might be worth a go. Also might protect tyre walls from cracking...

How did this work out Richard, all functioning ok?

That does sound hopeful👍Otherwise I believe there is suntan cream available for rubber...

Theyre 86 plus vat and del. now but the only alternative is secondhand and they probably wont be in much better condition than the originals😒 Be interesting how they last Wendy as some new rubber components these days start breaking up very quickly...

The ball (theres another one in the inlet to the accelerator pump) act as non return valves to ensure fuel always gets pumped in one direction (out of the nozzle) however has said nozzle goes quite high maybe the second ball isnt needed. You could test it when the carb is assembled by getting fuel into the float chamber and manually seeing how efficiently the accelerator pump works...

Canley says its 1/8" ball but Im not sure all carbs had it. Looking into the hole does it look like its prepared for the ball to sit there and seal?

Still on my original 55 year old leads and they work a treat - now thats quality!

Sorry cant help on the job but first have you sourced a new sunroof as they are horrendously expensive! Even second hand they are so sought after that even in only reasonable condition they go for hundreds...

That would be pretty difficult to do and Rimmers says a double filament bulb (GLB380) was used. That makes sense as the 5w filament would illuminate with the side lights and then the much brighter 21w light up as well and flash when the indicators are operated. Both are earthed through the lamp case and this arrangement would then be much easier to convert as Wendy has done...

oh I see, both filaments earth through the case of the lamp which then has a strap to earth it? Probably better than using its fixing screws to the bonnet as they always rust....