Jason C

Hi @glang! Apologies for my tardy reply, this is really helpful. I’ll do some investigation on specialists locally that could make a new prop shaft. The postage to NZ would perhaps be prohibitive for the size and weight. Do you think the best course of action would be to remove the prop shaft from the car and take to a specialist to build one from new? Also, I have now received a nice new OD speedo cable, another part ready in the kit. 🙂 Thank you

Thanks @glang this is a great help! Is the 43.5inch measurement from end to end? If I reuse the existing prop-shaft, I would need to find an expert to cut down the prop shaft itself, to make the 43.5inch total length? Do people typically rebuild the prop shaft, replace UJ etc while it‘s removed? Thank you

Hi @glang nice one, yup I have sourced a Stanpart overdrive adaptor plate. Also have the mount bracket and rubber mount. 🙂 Current item to ponder is the prop shaft, namely how long it should be. And the cleanest method to cut the gearbox tunnel and make a cover.

Hi @glang yup, have the correct main shaft for the unit. Thanks for cross checking, most appreciated. Always best to have the correct parts to help reduce frustrations when it’s open on the bench. Appreciate all the help guys!

Great info, thanks @RobPearce by the sounds the standard Smiths OD cable length should be perfect. My current non-OD cable has a nice flowing curve, seems plenty. @Martins Stag Good idea! Would you believe I still have the original cardboard material, but should be able to add a port, maybe with a simple large rubber bung. Hi there @glang, looking to rebuild the original box (needs rebuilding in any case), and fit the Overdrive at the same time. Have most of the major parts, need to rebuild gearbox and overdrive. Its been a very slow burn as have other items to fix... 🙂

Interestingly, a Smiths Speedometer flexible drive catalogue from 1968 lists the Vitesse, 2 Litre OD with a 1525mm length cable. Although, the Vitesse would have originally been fitted with a D-type OD. Anyone know if the D-type is a similar dimension to that of the J-type unit?

Hi @Martins Stag thanks for the pointers, will aim for a nice smooth arc. Thanks @RobPearce very useful info! Perhaps I will try the original cable on for size once the OD unit is in the car. By the way, did your Vitesse have a bracket to secure to Speedo cable within the engine bay? Thank you @thescrapman good tip, just checked my angle drive. Connects perfectly to the drive, I managed to find an original Smiths one. Thank you all, most appreciated.

Hi folks, Slowly working through items to purchase for my overdrive conversion. Good things take time, so people tell me. 🙂 I am installing a J-Type Overdrive unit to my Triumph Vitesse, 2 Litre, 1968. Does anyone know what the length of Speedo Cable should be to accommodate the overdrive unit? My non-overdrive speedo cable measures 1400mm long from end to end of the inner cable. Would 1600mm be correct? Enough cable to be safe...? Thank you

Thanks @glang will scout out beneath the car and make a bracket. 🙂

Sounds great @JohnD are any sealant types/brands preferable? Guessing only a small amount on the gasket? Are there any flexible sealants that scrap off easy later on... My thoughts exactly @glang ! This bracket should reduce some of the strain. Attached a picture from the manual - referring to bracket 'B'. Thanks chaps

Thanks all for your help with my manifold questions! Another couple of things I’m pondering; - My current extractors are connected to the exhaust pipe with a 'slip joint' and a U bolt clamp. Is it preferable to use sealant on exhaust slip joints, (in this case steel pipes) or best to simply connect without any sealant? The old sealant just broke away like brittle dust. - Best to use the exhaust gasket only, without any sealant? The cylinder head exhaust surface area is nice and flat. When removing the gasket was broken by one port, not sure if due to the homemade extractors not being true. - It appears the original exhaust had a curved mount bolted to the bottom of the engine to support the exhaust pipe here, are these still available? Thank you

Has a sweet sound to it, “gentleman's carriage” until you push your foot on the pedal. 🙂

Most interesting @glang any idea of the difference of diameter pipe between the two? I’ve found the Mk1 version of the exhaust harder to track down to purchase, maybe because its less popular. @RobPearce Love this phrase! And perhaps the Mk2 was one of the very first "hot saloons"? Before the format become popular.

@RobPearce Interesting that the Mk1 had the additional silencer at the front, and removed for a straight through pipe on the Mk2 – do you think to improve performance? Thanks @drofgum this is a really interesting design note! I noticed the exhaust manifold has almost like a little shelf, perhaps as you mention to aid in heat transfer.

Thanks @RobPearce I like the sound of the engine being quieter, not that it is noisy. On a different path, I noticed Triumph originally had sound deadening material on the timing cover, so they must have been interested in keeping sound levels down. By chance do you know which stainless steel exhaust closely matches the original design? Looking for a standard exhaust, non sports, baffled muffler... Most appreciated @glang it would be cool to coat in a similar colour to the original appearance. The few I have seen off a car have been rusty, I wonder if theres a method to return back to how they may have left the factory – but perhaps they change colour over time anyway.

Thanks @RobPearce appreciate your help. Sorry, I wasn’t very clear – I was trying to say the lugs which look to hold a mounting bracket on the 1600 Vitesse manifold. Attached a photo below of a 1600 manifold on eBay. On the 2 Litre version, judging by Triumph illustrations, blank lugs remain in the casting, but the bracket is deleted. Interesting, does the car sound quieter compared to tubular extractors? I have read that with the cast less heat goes into the engine bay, any truth in this? Where the studs originally threaded into the cast, and I assume rust in place overtime, and need to be drilled out? Was the cast manifold originally non-painted, what colour was it? Thank you

Hi folks, I currently have some home made exhaust extractors on my Triumph Vitesse, 2 Litre. I am looking to track down an original Stanpart cast manifold, namely because I would like to replace my exhaust system with a new stainless steel one. The current steel extractors are in good condition, I’ve painted them in heat temperature silver which match quite well with the inlet manifold. But the rear muffler is rotten, so now maybe is the time to change to the original set-up. What seems better with the original cast manifold design (than my extractors) is the inlet manifold can be supported by a stud to the exhaust manifold... (which seems to be not available?) supporting the weight further out, rather than relying on the bolts to the cylinder head. Although, with the amount of people with custom extractors, maybe a non issue. If someone could be so kind to help with a question in helping me try and track down a manifold locally: - Is the Triumph 2000 Mk 1 exhaust manifold identical to the Triumph Vitesse 2 Litre? - It appears to my eye, the Triumph Vitesse 1600 exhaust manifold is similar but has two mounting bolts on the outer face, with only the lugs remaining to the cast on the Triumph Vitesse 2 Litre manifold. - Are there any disadvantages to the cast iron manifold? My car is not performance orientated, if anything I like things quite original. Thank you

Thanks @RobPearce sounds spot on. 👍

A follow up question – brass or steel blanking plug in the cylinder block? Does it make a big difference for corrosion (removal if needed later) if the head is steel? Any preference, experience over the long term for plumbing tape on threads vs Loctite thread sealant?

Thanks everyone for the help on the heater plumbing. Spent today cleaning the Smiths heater, removed and flushed the radiator and valve. Cleaned the cables with compressed air, and applied some Teflon dry glide inside the cables. Cleaned the heater mechanism flap, hopefully once assembled it will be smooth operating. 🙂

Awesome, thank you @RobPearce for the detailed help. Will flush the valve, remove and lubricate the cable. I’ve noticed the O-ring on the valve has perished, so on the to do list.

Thanks @Rutty most interesting. I have seen larger heat shields and always wondered what they are designed for. I haven’t driven my Vitesse much yet (need to get running first!), is fuel vaporising a common issue with all carb engines? Do people have other solutions to help smoothen or just a fact of life with older engines? In another thread folks mentioned using larger fuel line from the tank helps reduce vaporisation.

A heating related question, the heater valve – mine is very hard to pull in the cabin, pulling the wooden dash when operating. Is this due to not being adjusted incorrectly, or do I need to lubricate the cable? Anyone encountered this and have a remedy? The valve itself it relatively new, well 5 years or so.

Thanks @Rutty thats perfect! Appreciate the photos, made life nice and easy. Your images sparked my curiosity, what are the plates on the manifold between the carbs, some type of heat deflector?

Thanks @RobPearce most appreciated, will replace the brass pipe with a plug. I’ll admit it caused some confusion having the extra hose, so thats a relief. The previous owner had a short rubber hose attached with a bung in the end, which made me curious. Could the hole in the block have served any practical use, like draining? Or like you say an appendage from the past. Will try turning the hose around, nice and simple, but I still didn't think of it myself. 🙂