Antonnick

yes nearly. 😊 Anyway the TüV man liked my solution with a heavy washer and using the 8mm bolt, I am now OK for the next two years.....

Allen socket ?? I had to look it up - Imbusskopf - yes that is an idea. I will give it a go

Yes that is correct - it is though very seldom that anyone uses the back seat. In any case, once the inspector is satisfied and certifies the roadworthiness for the next two years, I can always take it off again. But I agree totally - in the event of a serious crash , the seat coming loose would be the least of the worries. Actually , he did not like the bolt size at the front either. I had used M6 to replace the imperial size but he considers that to be too weak so will need to put in M8 and use a thick washer underneath. Problem is, the head of an M8 will not very likely not allow the seat to slide over it.

That would seem logical - I know that for example, a morris minor does not have any such clips holding the back end down. Never mind. The whole thing came to his intention because I had not bolted the frame down tightly enough. The inspector checked the internet for any info and I have had a look in Canleys as well - also for the Vitesse - which does not list anything. It would probably be "not available" anyway. He advised that I should drill and insert say a 6mm thread through the seat frame and secure with a winged nut. Ok, if it makes him happy.

I went for a te-test of my 13/60 today with the GermanTüV organisation and the man still does not like the way that the seat "chassis frame" if I can call it that is fixed to the floor. Although I have used the standard original bolt size for the front, he complains it is not strong enough - I must use minimum M8 with a more solid washer underneath. That is easily remedied. However....... ..he maintains that the folding seat should have some sort of mechanism at the rear end to stop it tipping foreward in the event of an accident. When I look in the workshop manual, I see that there is nothing shown for the Herald but indeed the Spitfire, although it has a differing "chassis frame" does have something to lock the seat. Does anyone know something about this?

Your comment to "the outer bearing still have some slop on unworn axle" So glad to read this! My Herald 13/60 was judged by the German TüV inspector to have some play and thus did not pass. I have tightened up the nut a notch in order to eliminate the play but after the retest tomorrow, will likely loosen it off again. This is easier than trying to prove that such play ( it is very slight) is normal.

Not as glad as I am daver clasper. 😃 I had stumbled on to your thread when I got this problem and was consoled that the figures at low revs were similar to mine. According to Moss though you should get 16V or more at idle which is clearly wrong. I was never really 100% sure that the Dynamo was ok until Glang gave me the tip of measureing resistance on the regulator and indeed in giving the contacts a good wipe with emery paper. Before I had only lightly wiped it. It seems you have to be more forceful than recommended in the manual. Now , when the rain stops it will be time to enjoy the car again!

Glang, you are brilliant! I reinstalled the control box and after brushing away any dust with an old clean toothbrush, the reading was still not zero but only 1,5 ohm. As good as. I then started the engine. Ignition light goes out - the cut out can be seen to function - the battery has over 13 V with the engine running. I call that a success - thanks to you.

Soooo, after running the fine emery paper through, the resistance has gone! Not totally - the meter records 6 ohm and buzzes, indicating a good connection Is this now possibly the solution and I should put it back in the car?

OK, we are getting there. thankyou for your perserverence. As before the resistance between F and D terminal tags is 65 ohm regardless of whether the voltage reg is open or closed. i have also measured the resistance directly across the top of the voltage control coil. That also records 65 ohm. This indicates to me that the contact is not clean. I have the whole control box out of the car in front of me. I will now try to clean between the points again and report back.

The "contact" you refer to I assume is the cut-out coil of the two? The 65ohm measurement I get is there whether the contact is open or closed, it makes no difference. Is that good or bad?

Forgive my confusion. Are you saying that the 65ohm that I measured is ok as it represents an in-built resistor which is there to reduce sparking?

Good morning Glang. I measured just now , with all wires disconnected to be sure and the multimeter measured 65 ohm resistance from the D to F terminal tags. If this is supposed to be zero Ohm, then perhaps this is the root cause problem? I notice inside the control box, normally out of sight, there is a sort of "bus bar" connecting the F and D terminals. Do you know of its function and perhaps that is the fault?

No I have the two coil RB 106 fitted. But I will measure this resistance and report back.

The plot thickens. This morning I did the F_D connection at the end of the wires , having removed them from the control box, ran the engine and got as before 18V +. So I am assuming the Geny is working. Reconnected the wires to teh control box, ran engine - ignition light stays on.# I did think I had a new after market control box to try out but in my chaos I cannot find it -perhaps I was dreaming. I do have an old one that I took off and so I have installed it to try out. At first , after the engine started, the ignition light flickered as the revs increased, it never completly extinguished but at least was not glowing red as the previous box did. I thought it might be worth cleaning the contacts, so disconnected the battery, cleaned up with emery paper, reconnected battery and started the engine. Back to square one - red light on all the time......... But I wonder, with the flickering, is that an indication of something?

Nein - I did not check at the battery but the ignition warning light still shines brightly after I reconnected all the wiring and restarted the engine.

I have previously checked the wiring for continuity which seems to be ok. Perhaps I should redo the test with the wiring in place at the Dynamo but using the wires pulled off the control box, just to make sure. Have taken the battery out and put it oncharge now overnight. Tomorrow I will use the spare control box I have and see what happens.

Just reinstalled the Dynamo and the test . This time I increased the revs and sure enough the voltage climbed to 16V or more. So does that mean that the Dynamo is working as it should? From the Triumph manual ( I still cannot find this section in the Workshop manual) it mentions 730 rpm - this is tickover speed. Could it be that 1730 is meant?

Ok thanks - I did not increase the revs though. According to Moss , the increase should happen even at low revs. Anyway I have the Dynamo on the bench now and have already had a look inside. A bit sooty. The brushes appear to be in good condition and still with plenty of material - about 12mm. I will clean the commutator with Aceton before putting it back together - the brushes? Best left along I would think - they do move in and out of the holders freely. I did forget to mention that the ignition bulb failed yesterday. I do not have a spare so for the moment have used the bulb from the oil pressure warning.

Can I latch on to this thread, because my problem is very similar. Last week I had my Herald 13/60 of 70 vintage booked in for its bi-annual test - the TüV. The car has been in regular usage but on this occaison (it had to be didn't it?) the ignition light stayed on after starting and only extinguished after about 2 minutes. Thereafter for the 45 minute trip to the test station, it used to come on occaisionally; even on normal driving sppeds, not at idle. Anyway after the test where it was failed because the seat fixings were loose, the next day the ignition light wont go out at all. Measured battery voltage with engine running is 12,6 V so this is conformation that it is not charging. Good job that the battery is in good condition. Now according to the Moss Dynamo video, when you connect the F and D terminals after removing the wires, at idle speed the voltage should gradually increase to 16V but like Dave Clasper, mine records only about 5,5V maximum and stays there. I am therefore a bit confused as to whether the Dynamo really is underperforming??? If it is , I can replace it not a big problem but I want to be sure. I have already taken the fan belt off and run the Dynamo as a motor which it happily does. I have a spare control box I can try out ( it is not an original unfortunately so may be suspect) but I do not like just swapping components in the hope that it will solve a problem but rather logically work out what is wrong.

Whilst waiting for the new end clips - I wanted to say what a blessing the article was which MPBarrett downloaded . Especially informative was the tip to clip the rear inside material to the tub flange at the rear. It really does make the finish look good even by my normally poor workmanship.

I am proceeding bit by bit - the hood front is now glued to the "stick" and inside the channel. Next operation is to screw in the steel profile together with the front plastik bulb profile piece. I will take a picture if it works! I have lost one of the alu end clips! It must be somewhere amongst my chaos as it definately was there when the original was removed.........

"really important to make sure that the hinges on the end of the front rail are not seized, they need to move as the hood is raised and lowered. If they are seized they will break.." It looks to me as if the arms on the header rail ( or stick in the article) which get bolted to the hood frame have been welded up at some stage . Never been a problem before though.

Thankyou very much Mike for that - really helpful. I am now studying it hard! I had already started by fixing the back end. I located where the two central holes were needed in the hood, punched them through and tempory screwed them using large self tapping onto the tub. Then the hood edge can be stretched to the next position, marked with chalk, hole punched and the temp screw put in. Working from the middle outwards, this seems to work well such that this rear fitting is tight and overlays well. The front header rail I have already refurbished and rust proofed, painted gloss black but finally completely covered it in self adhesive black vinyl. The front seal war perished and used to let in copious amounts of rainwater when it really bucketted down. A replacement of the origial profile is no longar available it seems but rather a soft rubberised channel section. I have got hold of a sort of plastic section which matches the original but is only available in grey colour. Will see if it works. This will be a tricky bit I think. The vinyl covering of the header rail, the plastic header seal and then the mohair hood itself all have to be accurately holed and then held in place by a steel channel. By the way I live in rural Vogelsberg, some 80km north of Frankfurt am Main. gruß/ regards Antonia

thankyou both for the replies - I got the hood from Rimmers last FEbruary when I was in England for a short visit so as I do not live there, no chance of having someone familiar with a Herald fit it for me. In any case, up to now I have botched everything my self so why stop now? 😀 There are some helpful videos in YT to follow which do help. Yes, we also have very warm temperatures even here in the "Mittelgebirge" at 600m so it is easier to stretch the material into position. If you do have a scanned copy of detailed fitting instructions/article mpbarrett and could send it to me, that would be very helpful, thankyou. I do have some clamp plates in my stock, so no problem there. Antonia-Nichol@gmx.de