Ed H

They are just small pry bars. Sometimes you need more than one to pry or lift something up. Ed

That's correct, though there are similar products that claim to be UV stable. Rust Bullet is one, I believe. Ed

Not sure if you can get a product called POR15 in the UK. I primed an outdoor railing with it about 15 years ago, and it's still holding. It does have some drawbacks. If you get any on you, you'll be wearing it for a while. If you only use part of a can and re-seal it, chances are that you won't be able to get the top off again. Ed

But with powder coating, it's not just simple melting--it's a curing process. For full curing, temps in excess of 350 degF (177 degC) have to be maintained for at least 20 minutes or so, depending on the exact powder. The powders I use call for 450 degF (232 degC) until the powder flows, then 400 degF (204 degC) for 20 minutes. Ed

This is Chip. (Chocolate chip--get it?) He wants so bad to go for a ride. The problem is, he feels no obligation to stay in the car. Ed

Not sure what car this is, but on a TR6, there is a cork seal and a metal backer ring inside. Tightening the cap might bind the seal on the shaft a little. Ed

Ive had my LBCs for decades, typically buy from the usual sources, and can't say i've had any real problems with inferior seals. But ask the group about their experiences. Ed

In my book, those wouldn't be from a reputable maker. Ed

It's actually simpler than that. The DOT specs list the rubber compounds that all DOT compliant fluids must be compatible with. The list is the same for DOT 3, 4, 5, and 5.1. Any reputable maker of seals for braking systems would be crazy to use any rubber compound not on that list. Suggestion of DOT5 incompatibility with modern rubber seal materials is a red herring. Ed

V groove bearings. Amazon has many. Ed

Home made tubing straightener. Cheap, and works great. Ed

Electrolytic rust removal seems to be a bit of a fad right now. I'e used it occasionally over the years, and it works fine, but no better than simpler chemical or mechanical methods. Electrolysis is essentially a line-of-sight process, so the electrode needs to be inside the tank. Any baffles in the tank will be a problem. Tanks with odd shapes can also be a problem. The effectiveness of the process is worst in areas hardest to see, so there is often a false sense of success. Electrolysis is a good tool for specific situations, but it's way down the list of rust removal methods, at least for me. Ed

This process worked well for me: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-63/TR6-63.html Ed

I'll offer this for what it's worth. I read it long ago from a source that seemed credible to me at the time. Brake fluids have additives that intentionally swell rubber compounds by a controlled amount to help with sealing. The swelling agents in glycol- and silicone-based fluids are necessarily different, and adding silicone to a system formerly using glycol could result in some rubber parts getting double-swelled, leading to accelerated wear and failure. I can't vouch for the accuracy of this claim, but it fits with some anecdotal evidence that we hear. Ed

IMO, internal tank coatings should be a last resort to save an unusable and otherwise unrepairable tank. If the coating fails, and they sometimes do, you are left in worse shape than before the coating. Ed

Hobby economics are way different from rational business economics. It is possible to restore a car and not be under water at the end, but not easy. You have to buy the car right (or, as in my case, buy it when It's worth nothing, and store it for 30 years), do almost all the work yourself, and bias toward refurbing parts rather than buying new. If you do end up selling the card for a small profit, don't even try to figure what your time investment was worth. You don't want to know, and It's not the point anyway. Ed

This video might be relevant to this topic. https://drivemag.com/video/cooling-fan-shoot-out-engine-masters-ep-20 Ed

Leaving the original fan in place negates one of the main reasons to go electric--eliminating the load of the mechanical fan on the engine. Ed

For poly bushes, neither color nor cost is necessarily a good indicator of quality. A much more important parameter is the type and durometer of the material, which is often not mentioned at all in the marketing copy. "Poly" could mean polyurethane, but maybe not. Ed

Mine are marked on the box: "Shock Absorber Rear G GSA280HD" That could be a Spibits part number. On the shock itself is stamped "344068".

I bought rear shocks for my rotoflex 69 GT6+ from Spitbits in the US. They are KYB brand. I ended up not using them, rather opting to do the frame extensions and use non-rotoflex shocks. The original upper shock attachment points were in really bad shape on my car, with a lot of hidden rust between the wheel well and the doubler plate. Some pics the rust repair and the frame extensions here: http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-41/GT6-41.html Ed

About halfway down this page are three links to videos that show what you can expect from these CLD mats. If the roof flashing seems to give similar results, use it! http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-62/GT6-62.html The "Dynaliner" sounds like it's something different. Ed

Some paint makers advise against using any etching products under their primers. SPI 2K epoxy primer, for example. Evercoat says you can use etching products under their 2K Featherfill primer, but it extends the cure time about 5X. Ed

If it is like the trunnions on the GT6 or TR6, they have a crimped in steel disc at the bottom. If they leak, soldering is a very good way to seal them. Ed