rotoflex

Are you using CDSE carbs? Look at the face to see if there's an additional hole.  My CDSE's are of that type, & they require those spacers & gaskets with the slot running from the center opening.  They allow the additional hole to share the same atmosphere as the butterflies.  They won't function properly with the gaskets & spacers without the oblong slot running from the center hole.   Sorry, can't provide photos & excerpts from manuals, I'm confined with a wrecked ankle.

I used no sealant on the head gasket & Permatex Aviation gasket sealant on everything else. Non-leaky for about 30 years!

My GT6 originally had snaps (you may call them poppers) screwed to the floor, & the carpets had the other side of the snap attached to them with a sort of pressed ring on the passenger side.

I agree, get some of the later springy metal interconnectors from someone like Andrew Turner.

Ooooo, that looks nice!

If you're having trouble with overheating in your Mk2 & are just haunted by evil spirits after trying almost everything, let me assure you that if you fabricate a fan shroud for your car, it will suck the heat out of the rad so hard you will wonder why you hadn't done it first. I went almost forever with the worst overheating problem ever driving a Jaguar XK140 in coastal Alabama -  tiny grille opening, small honeycomb type radiator, big engine, etc -- and it was just monstrous.  Shrouding the rad to the grille doesn't do much.  An additional electric fan in front was almost no effect.  I researched & talked with lots of folks, & they kept coming back to telling me to just fabricate a fan shroud from aluminum.  I finally mocked it up in cardboard, cut it from aluminum cookie sheet, & BAM, problem solved.   Notice that ALL modern cars have fan shrouds, & shrouds from the radiator to the grille are not very common.

My car was 3 years old when I got it, & had the standard radiator.  It even had air conditioning from the dealership.  At some point, the cardboard shroud in front and at the top of the radiator was lost, but still the car had no overheating problems driving in the heat & great humidity along the coast of the Gulf of Mexico.  That included city traffic stopping & going up & down the mountain in Birmingham, Alabama. All my overheating issues were the result of radiator sludge (send the radiator to be boiled out & painted), thermostats giving up, & head gasket failures. I think there has often been trouble traced to people running the cars without thermostats.

Belated happy birthday, Docman! I promise you, that bit of seal is straight from British Leyland:  I ordered it when I had the car painted back in the late 70s or so & never put it on.   I took it out of the plastic bag with the BL logo & part number back when to uncurl it, sorry! I can't look it up now, but maybe the Mk3 seal was different from the earlier cars?

Belated happy birthday, Docman! I promise you, that bit of seal is straight from British Leyland:  I ordered it when I had the car painted back in the late 70s or so & never put it on.   I took it out of the plastic bag with the BL logo & part number back when to uncurl it, sorry! I can't look it up now, but maybe the Mk3 seal was different from the earlier cars?

That photo of the seal came from me:  I had meant to send a small section of the seal to Bill at Rarebits, but I've moved & cannot find it right now.  I'll keep looking.

That photo of the seal came from me:  I had meant to send a small section of the seal to Bill at Rarebits, but I've moved & cannot find it right now.  I'll keep looking.

I wonder if something has fallen off & is rattling around inside the transmisson bell housing.  Like maybe a piece of the clutch.

Is the conventional wisdom not that the 6-3-1 configuration is superior for performance over the 6-2-1?  The Maniflow system appears to be 6-2-1.

Very cool.  So you use them with the original rod-type accelerator linkage?

For which version of GT6?

On my LHD Mk3, the wrapped harness passes through a grommet on the firewall just inboard of where the pedals are bolted Then it runs to the front clipped to the top of the engine valances, or just runninging across the shock towers if the valances have been removed

They've all become definite individuals over the years, haven't they?

vitesse203 wrote:It depends how modern is your modern and what make.l That's a good point.  Cars before 1998 or so are not OBD2 compliant, but are OBD1.  OBD1 cars will not talk to an OBD2 reader!

You mean an OBD2 reader? They can be found very cheaply on eBay.  I have a pretty inexpensive one from eBay that works well. The baseline ones all seem to be much alike. Also, you can buy an ELM327 bluetooth OBD2 dongle for about $10 on ebay, which can then be used to communicate with OBD2 software on your phone or a laptop.  The phone method is handy:  I have an evap leak code which occurs occasionally, it triggers the light on the dash, I've not yet been motivated to chase it, & I can just clear the code via my phone.

You went in with your eyes open; you know what happens when you get to fixin' things. As a favor once I volunteered to replace the light fixture in the ticket booth of a 1927 movie theatre.  When I unscrewed it & woggled it a little to break it free from the paint, the entire plaster ceiling of the ticket booth came down.  I now know how to make a plaster ceiling -  lath, rough coat, skim coat, paint.  I also know what plaster tastes like.

For me, it wouldn't be the same without the sound of the original type starter motor!

That's looking very good!

You've got a dead anemone stuck in your car next to the radiator.

2880 wrote: Is it possible to adjust the mixture on the CDSE stromberg carbs ? According to my manual, there should be a mixture screw visible from the underside of the carb, I've just got a blank installed where they reference. The manuals are frequently confusing & sometimes refer to the method of adjusting the CD carbs in the section on the CDSE carbs.  If you've got the blank plug on the bottom, you've got CDSE carbs, & CDSE carb mixture is adjusted by inserting a special tool through the carb's oil filler on top. That being said, in this case, I would look elsewhere before adjusting the mixture. Quote: I've recently fitted a HUCO electric fuel pump, the output should be regulated at 2.1PSI. Is there any possibility it would be putting out more ? Yes.  You'd need to check it with a fuel pressure gauge.  If you're moving permanently to electric pumps, a fuel pressure regulator might be a good idea. Quote:What would be the effect of putting in too much damper oil ? I topped both carb dampers up today. Don't think I put too much in, but could be worth noting. The excess oil would just squirt/run out of the overflow hole on the side of the chimney. Quote:Can the starter box area of the CDSE stromberg carb be rebuilt ? I'm convinced there's a small leak around here as it's very discolored with fuel. The main issue of the starter box is wear, & yes as it wears it can result in always being too rich at idle (with the choke off).  This wear is of aluminum wearing away, & is unfixable.  It may be that if the fuel pressure is too high, it's squirting fuel out where it can. Quote:What would be the symptoms of the emission control bit on the side of the CDSE carb failing ? Would this cause the mixture to richen ? Which emission control bit?  The thermostatic thing (the long plastic-covered thing, #16) or the throttle bypass thing, #10? The thermostatic thing is becoming a problem, because as it ages the black rubber stopper disintegrates & doesn't stop any more.  If yours is deteriorating replacement or blocking it off are the only ways to make it work correctly under standard adjustments.  Never try to adjust the thermostatic strip things insides! Quote:I can replicate the issue statically, by moving the throttle control arm on the actual carbs, after revving up the back carb drips fuel out of the air filter quite a bit for around 20 seconds or so. Never happened before. This indicates a stuck needle valve, or a fuel pump putting out so much pressure that it's overcoming the needle valve. Quote:Would you guys go for a rebuild ? Or I'm tempted by a set of CD175 stromberg carbs. Obviously just putting on bigger carbs won't isn't the sole answer for more power, but how much of a difference might I see ? I understand that there is a consensus that CD175's offer no improvements on the 2.0 liter engine even with many engine performance improvements.  My advice is to first make sure the fuel pressure stays within specs (1.5 psi to 2.5 psi for Strombergs), even if it means installing a fuel pressure regulator.  After that, if fuel still drips from one of the carbs, then it indicates a needle valve problem, & you might as well take them off & rebuild them.  Pulling the bottom bowl off to access the needle valve usually wrecks the bowl gasket, & if the needle valve must be replaced upside down & you're not familiar with them, they'd be better off the car & on the kitchen table to work on.  Get a mixture adjusting tool with the rebuild kit if you rebuild. Is the car at its age still subject to emissions testing & requirements there?  If not, at rebuild you can just block off the throttle bypass valve & thermostatic thing to reduce variables & problems, & hope that the starter box isn't worn.

9442 wrote:Oh... The round thing by the overflow bottle is part of the North American emissions controls. It's a vapour recovery tank that is supposed to condense petrol vapours and feed them back to the fuel tank. I'm not sure if it's related to the loss of performance of the NA version but if it is....... It's part of the evaporative loss control equipment.  Evap equipment doesn't affect performance. Quote:Someone - possibly the DPO - already removed what we call the "smog pump" and blocked the holes in the head. The Exhaust Gas Recirculation  valve is also gone. The plan is to eventually convert the engine to UK/Euro spec so, I'll need to study what is and isn't the same as the NA version, to know how the UK version is hooked up for the hoses and such. UK/Euro spec would have a different head, compression ratio, etc.  The vague thing is what to point at & call UK/Euro spec.  It's sort of easy if you just describe it as OEM, but as you can see here on the forum, present UK spec varies over a wide array of performance modifications that pretty much cluster around the same, traditional ideas.    If you just want a really good performer compared to the original federal spec, you're still at what many people have done with them which is one or more of: block off the holes for the air pump, shave the head, get a hotter cam, upgrade the carburetion.