Nilfisken
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Joining the discussion a bit late but here is my experience of fitting on to a 1500. When doing a long run across Europe during a hot summer I noticed a clear reduction in engine temperature compared to driving in similar hot conditions before fitting. The main effect I found was that it massively helped to quickly reduce oil and water temperature (I had meters for both installed) after repeated standstills at Autobahn, as soon as it started to move temperature dropped much quicker than I was used to seeing. I do think though that it overcooled in winter, as far as I have been told even the thermostatic cooler have a small bypass when the thermostat is in the closed position so it took a long time to get the temperature up. I was thinking about making a metal cover for the cooler to put on during winter, but then I tore the car to pieces, failed to finish the restoration and sold the project so no idea if that would have worked or not :-/ Cheers, Oskar
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Worth checking one more thing. I had roughly the same problems and it was actually caused by a horribly worn U-joint in the propshaft. Easier to fix than to rip out the gearbox! Just crawl under and see if there is any play in the joint while turning the shaft by hand (box in neutral, handbrakes on). There will of course be play in the diff making it hard to identify if you can t hold the short part of the propshaft steady, but if it's as bad as mine was its easy to identify what area is the culprit. Cherers!
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Thanks, just as I expected but always best to check with the joint experience of the forum :)
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Hi, I'm currently selling of parts of my car on ebay (dont worry, this is no advertisement) and listed my set of adjustable spax dampers (bought from Moss for a 1500 Spit) as suitable for all models of Spitfire, Herald, Vitesse and GT6 except that the rear don't fit models with rotaflex. A potential buyer contacted me asking for the codes stamped on the shocks and then got back to me saying they wont fit a Vitesse (he asked about the front shocks). Have I gotten this wrong or not, I thought they were the same if the car is non rotaflex and always the same for all front shocks. All companies selling basic parts for triumphs I could find online lists the same number for front shocks so I'm wondering wether the person asking me got back with the wrong info? Cheers!
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Looking forward to hear some good news later tonight then :)
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Time for an update, today I finally took the sump of to inspect the thrust washers. They look frickin horrible on the soft bearing side, but I cant see or feel any damage to the end of the crankshaft that has been riding against this mess so I think the crank is OK. Now I need to decide what size of thrust washers to order, I cant find my micrometer at the moment but as soon as that is done I will measure them and go for a total of 0.005 over size but does anyone here know what the standard size is? My old ones have no markings saying wether they are standard or oversized so I'm not sure how to know what type to get without that measurement. Cheers!
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Time for an update, today I finally took the sump of to inspect the thrust washers. They look frickin horrible on the soft bearing side, but I cant see or feel any damage to the end of the crankshaft that has been riding against this mess so I think the crank is OK. Now I need to decide what size of thrust washers to order, I cant find my micrometer at the moment but as soon as that is done I will measure them and go for a total of 0.005 over size but does anyone here know what the standard size is? My old ones have no markings saying wether they are standard or oversized so I'm not sure how to know what type to get without that measurement. Cheers!
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I had similar problems when I changed gearbox last year, turns out the slave was a little bit to far back so it did not engage the clutch fork before the very end of the pedal stroke. See if you can force the slave a bit closer to the flywheel? The cut out in the slave is a bit wider than the bolt that clamps it so there is some room for adjustments! Cheers
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Just what I want to hear as I'm also putting adjustable shocks on! Let me know if you need to borrow a local spring compressor :)
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Hi, one thing that might work if you cant here a click (but you most likely should) is to just leave the car with ignition in on position and overdrive engaged (the switch) in 3th or 4th. Then leave the car for about five minutes and after that touch the solenoid with your hand from underneath the car. If it is getting power and engages it will be quite warm after a few minutes. Cheers!
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I agree with Nick that changing both is the way to go. When you rebuild one of them with new seals it will hold even more pressure putting more strain on the old components in the system so the unchanged parts start leaking quickly. Happened to me when I changed my slave cylinder for a new one...
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I just had local hardware store cut a steel tube of the right diameter up in proper length pieces, not on the car yet but looks to do the job.
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I remember the difference when I did my carbs, engine all of a sudden worked and consumption dropped to half of before! :)
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For the electrics do keep a BIG roll of masking tape and label up every single connection you take off by using a permanent marker on the tape tags. It does help immensely when reconnecting months (or years) later!
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Thanks! One manufacturer makes life easier sometimes :)