frenchiemk2

I found today that 2 injectors don't open or don't spray correctly. Try to clean them ultrasonic bath thing i will be borrowed. Found a pair of new ones 1 hour drive from home. Think it's gonna make it.

I don't want an Alpine look like 😅

Problem unsolved since : engine hiccups /idling/misfiring like For the record, the car ran great till i made a left turn at a roundabout... So it hapened all of a sudden. it's like you run on 3 cylinders on a 4 cylindres car. Can't get reving but the engine starts fine and idle till i don't accelerate. then running bad and can't reach 4000 rpm (depends on the advance and air valve ). What I did or check since : - new fuelpump 044 (seems to feed 7 bars) - new spark plugs and gapped : there's spark everywhere. - new lead cables - new cap and rotor arm - new coil (and tested with the older one) and new ballast - new tested electronic ignition module - Advance timing set 8 to 10 before TDC (advance adjuster on distributor works) - setting valves clearance again - setting throttles (small differences sometimes on left-right inlets on the same body) but average sounds good - all injectors spray (maybe i will check the amonut of fuel delivered to compare them) - M.U renewed and yesterday i cleaned the inlet filter. Rubber seal keeps depression on succion - new fuel + octane booster additive (in case the 10l fuel in tank was bad ) -The alternator is charging nice (new) but heating a bit. What i noticed is on cold start during the first 5 seconds the lambda indicates 14 and drops to 17 and no reading value (getting poor)... I want to ask for a compression tester to check cylinders/head/valves gaps... Any suggestion of that sudden problem caused by?

What i did : low pressure pump to feed the swilrpot, 044 pump to the line (Bosch set valve) and a pressure gauge on a T link before the M.U The prefilter will be changed for a bigger one.

Exactly, just for aesthetics : i want a 70's french racing look on a racing green Triumph. Already has french alloys, soon an exhaust with conic tip (Devil like). So the beams must be somehow yellow but i don't want to varnish them and be quickly reversible ( i arlready bought a PEBEO yellow varnish for a second set of KOITO beams i had formerly)

It does but most time weather clear and more difficult to see at night and particularly when raining at night. We were so happy to change the bulbs... Then we eventually discovered that even clear beams were poor and it was not only a matter of color... 😉

yep, tired to pay much for postage and fees... 😏

Hi, What i learnt is here in France government chose yellow light because it's easier to see on snowy landscape (yes... no comment). Well as main laws are not retroactive, you are allowed to still use yellow beams even now and no one will check the conformity/model. I had 3 Scirocco Mk1 having 4 yellow tinted beams... All i want, is to make an easy old looking car, reminding sports cars of the 70'S on meetings (Wheels, exhaust, spoiler, beams and bumpers off))

Hi, Any of you have those Lucas yellow beams caps X4 5 1/2 for 2000 2500 Stag? In search of 2 pairs as i don't want to tint the genuine clear beams. Thanks

True, oil filled ones are easier to read. I asked myself about digital ones. Some have an outer bars for 1st reading and a digital number as 2nd reading. Maybe it's an average pressure i don't know. This one is cheap re-use. Oscillating only in between 1 bar... so not the worst. The oil filled ones i know are bigger and may not fit.

Still not a proper filter yet. But this is nearly the end of adjustments. Have to create a custom cap on top of this...

Before i put a 12v sensor and 10 bar pressure gauge, reusing the former gauge. (Indicates around 7bar as oscillating btw 6-8. I wish i could have a better stabilized reading) Link to T union provider in France

Nice setup. You still have a metering unit like Pi's? And got the correct pressure?

Well, it will look much like this It's only 1L swirlpot but i wish enough for long curves left with nearly empty tank. - Short of 8mm fuel hose to connect as i want - low pressure pump will be attached or on silentblocs - and this pre filter wont last long, searching an aluminium larger prefilter, but interstingly, there's air inside... that's an issue... - at the very least, i'll try to adapt the PI wood floor if i can.

Step by step (ooh baby, gonna get to you girl) 😅 Well seems i don't have a return line to tank around there... Maybe insert a T after the PRV to return to the swirl pot ?