Amy Wade
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Most of the time? 🤔
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Every time it went up & down the bore it would have been expanding and contracting as it went in & out of the worn area of the bore. The rebore & new pistons will fix it & it should be good for another 100k.
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There's multiple reasons it could have been, reading the various posts by yourself and Darren, the most likely cause was just wear and tear, I suspect the ring groove would have been excessively worn & the ring was chattering in the piston.
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It's great to see youngsters taking an interest in classic cars. Hopefully you'll find a suitable project car. The clubs are here to help, we all share an interest in keeping the cars running & there's a wealth of knowledge you can tap into.
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It's good to find the fault & know the crank is fine. A rebore and matching pistons will get the bottom end sorted. You'll be back behind the wheel in no time. 😊
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I'm sure the quality won't jump up...
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I personally wouldn't bother with them, as DVD3500 says, they can be a **** to remove & 4 wheel nuts give much better clamping force than a couple of little screws. -
I noticed from one of your posts you've already got the guides so that will be sorted during the rebuild. Good luck with the rebuild.
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I've seen metallic fragments bedded into piston crowns before, one of the most common sources is the valve guides breaking up.
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It was good to catch up. Happy birthday @Wendy Dawes. I hope everyone enjoyed the brownies 😊
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Signed 😊
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And repeated on Quest for a decade...
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I have just seen this on the book of faces, I'm sure there's plenty of people in Club Triumph who could have suitable sheds/garages/workshops...
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Are you allowed to say things like that on this forum?
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The wiring colours were done to BS-AU7, there was a later revision BS-AU7a which was introduced just after Triumphs stopped being produced. As for wire gauges, you'll have to calculate current draw/voltage drops for your circuits. BritishWiringColours-BS-AU7.pdf
