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junkuser

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  1. Quite a milestone Hazen. Congratulations! The rest will take time, but should be straight forward. A great story. Mal.
  2. Early had a nut retaining the Bendix and later had circlip and retaining ring. There are repeated shock loadings on this over the years and the ring is hard. Having had one of those retaining rings fail on the Spitfire years ago, have only used the nut type since. I have driven several different vehicles, many thousands of miles since the 60s fitted with the early type and this was the first one of the ring type I had ever come across, so please accept my feelings on them. There is no warning, just a starter motor revving high, so need a push or a cooperative slope. Probably rare to happen and I can't be sure of the cause, but mention in case of interest.
  3. The bits of plastic U section I used are only about 15mm long and only on places that are two layers of body metal at the edge. Spaced at similar spacing to original clips.       There is plenty of space left under the trim for air circulation. No requirement for sealing. No rust has ever occurred under mine.
  4. Piece of wood on wing either side and lever off with screwdrivers. Work along carefully starting at end, small amount at a time. Feel will tell you where the clips are and then just lever at those points and then just work along them. Use plastic, bits of U strip as used on metal edges and found on various non-Triumph stuff, or short lengths of strip, instead of the clips, to refit, to avoid paint damage. Hold well if correct thickness used. This is what I used on mine when originally restored 1996. Original plastic still there and have survived several removals since, the last time about 3 years ago. They have UV damage on the exposed edges, but otherwise OK.
  5. Most of the water from the block and head. Drains the block and head. Removing the radiator cap to allow air in is handy to remember though. Just a bit cautious about saying completely. Some may be remaining due to angle of engine possible blockages in block. Many, if not most, modern cars have no block drain Iain.
  6. Plugs are more practical than taps. Taps usually block and or jam after not being used for a long time and in any case have to be removed to poke wire in the hole to check the waterways. Easy enough to remove bottom radiator hose to remove most of the water from the cooling system, if the water is not too hot. Polished taps look nice for show though.
  7. With the belt removed, placing a piece of dowel or rod in the V of a pulley avoids the variable of different pulley overall widths. This will show if the pulleys are at right angles to the driving shaft as well as showing the alignment the belt will run at. It is also a way of checking that the pulley is not bent by rotating the pulley and seeing if the end of the dowel moves.
  8. Pump pressure too high certainly can force fuel past a needle valve that behaves itself when engine is running, but it seems that you have covered this point. Warm engines require a leaner mixture than cold ones, so become rather sensitive to richer mixtures, particularly when starting, which you also appear to be aware of. "at the minute i have to floor the throttle with a little choke" is leaning off the mixture, as wide open throttle simply lets in air on a constant depression type carburetor with no accelerator pump and a little "choke" would cam the throttle rest position up with little or no pulling down of the jet, which is your logic behind using this method. Have you tried just leaning the mixtures a tad by adjusting jet level? I still suspect a needle valve sealing problem causing an elevated fuel level resulting in a richer mixture that a cool engine can tolerate but not a hot one.
  9. Pete, I was asked to apply the bush conversion to an MGB box. Turned out the spigot had been turned down and sleeved for a previous problem. The sleeve had moved towards the end of the spigot and what a mess that made of the roller bearing used there. Also damaged the spigot further as the sleeve and bearing jammed and stopped rotating. I did shrink a sleeve onto the spigot by making an interference fit sleeve, bringing the sleeve to red heat while not parted off, mounting shaft in the lathe and forcing the new bit on using the tail-stock centre  whilst rotating and piening when in position. Next parted off, outer surface finished and suitable bush made. Have no idea if it was ever used as the owners had fitted a second hand box.   So much for love jobs, but at least it was an interesting challenge.
  10. I made a 3 legged puller that hooks on the deep end of the roller type bearing as mine was very tight and trying to hook it out by pulling on the close end just broke the lip off the outer case. Glass hard. I have dismantled half a dozen of these Herald/Spit boxes since and on one occasion  that original type bearing just fell out when the shaft was stood upright on its gear end while I was washing the parts. After that I always tried tapping the gear end of the shaft on a piece of hardwood, but only one more fell out using this method, still worth a try. Varying amounts of pull required for the rest, but none as tight as that first one.
  11. Pete, I have posted the bush idea at least twice previously on this forum over the years and yours is the first response I've seen. Thanks for it being positive. Dave, what you say is quite possible, but I can't understand why someone has gone to the trouble of dismantling a box to replace that bearing and not drained and cleaned out the box. To change that bearing, at least the cluster gear (many names for that part) must be dropped to the bottom of the box and the box must be disconnected from the input and output mechanisms. Anything is possible though. Mal.
  12. But no, there's more! Before people write off the idea of bushes on the spigot, how long does a 4 speed box spend in an indirect gear? This is when it is receiving side loadings and even then the speed difference between the spigot and input shaft is relatively low. It is the side loading rather than the wear rate that is the problem if wear rate seems a possible problem. The difference in rolling and sliding friction in this use is not a primary consideration. The main factor for my decision to use modified bronze bushes was the amount of damage that could be done to boxes when the spigot bearing failed. A bush under these conditions will not break up. If it wears, the gears may start humming due to changes on meshing angles but even this is unlikely. Mal.
  13. "The needles are just over 1mm in diameter." That suggests they are from the spigot on the mainshaft mazfg.  Original bearings had rollers in an outer shell. I do not like small diameter rollers on small shafts which ar subjected to side loadings. Bushes handle such conditions much better and that is what I put in there, same as Rootes Group and others used to for a long time.  I'm sure that the change to bearings by manufacturers was a cost saving/ease of assembly move. Small rollers under these conditions tend to roll out of parallel to the shaft causing shaft surface damage due to the skidding action and even breakage of the rollers. A more extreme example is in universal joints and many people on this forum have see what they can look like. Yep, I use special bushes in these too!   Enough rave, Sounds like an overhauled box from a known good gearbox person will be the way to go in your circumstances mazfg. There may be some reuseable parts in the box that could give a bit of a trade-in consideration but professionals really should only use parts that have no faults. Unlike what we mugs can do.
  14. Actual diameters of those rollers would help in working out where they came from mazfg.
  15. The rollers have nipples on there ends which would suggest they have been in a bearing with an outer case or a cage. For either type to escape suggests something dramatic has happened. The longer the box is used, the more the damage to teeth due to incorrect meshing at least, so best have it dismantled to see what can be saved. Hopefully overdrive type main-shaft is OK so it can be used to convert a non-overdrive box, which should be easier to find. If you do not feel like working on the box yourself, talk to someone competent to do so, but best not to use till something is done.
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