don cook1
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"There is what appears to be a larger one below the distributor mount on the block that resists all efforts, but cannot see what purpose it serves" The Scottish bloke will tell us. Where are you McMarcus
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I was at Beaulieu on Saturday and was in the old bus shuttle, that was hot...about 70 deg!!
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Maybe its the condenser, these break down when hot and cause your problem.
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How have you got on Stuart? You say 1mm (39.3 thou) gap but you have to measure the end float from a known datum point and that is with standard size thrust washers fitted. Order standard size and fit them, then measure the gap with a dial gauge or feelers. Once you have the 'new' total gap size, in thou, deduct the required clearance (is it between 4-8 thou and what is left is what you have to make up with oversize. I'd order a set of standard size for the datum and at the same time take a punt and get another oversize set at whatever you think you'll need. You can then mix or match. I'd also have a good read up of how to measure the end float as I believe there is some inertia by the con-rods that may give a false reading, my engine builder used a large lever rather than just pushing/pulling by hand. Make sure the slotted (oil way) side of the washers are against the moving part i.e. the crank.
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How have you got on Stuart? You say 1mm (39.3 thou) gap but you have to measure the end float from a known datum point and that is with standard size thrust washers fitted. Order standard size and fit them, then measure the gap with a dial gauge or feelers. Once you have the 'new' total gap size, in thou, deduct the required clearance (is it between 4-8 thou and what is left is what you have to make up with oversize. I'd order a set of standard size for the datum and at the same time take a punt and get another oversize set at whatever you think you'll need. You can then mix or match. I'd also have a good read up of how to measure the end float as I believe there is some inertia by the con-rods that may give a false reading, my engine builder used a large lever rather than just pushing/pulling by hand. Make sure the slotted (oil way) side of the washers are against the moving part i.e. the crank.
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Oh to have cold in a GT6!
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Not a failure as such, as we managed to get all the way round, but some of you may know that we lost the clutch at the start (Aachen). To my shame I have just got around to taking the Type 9 gearbox out. Well, it transpires that the fulcrum pin decided to part company with the bellhousing (Triumph). The spring on the clutch release arm/fork looked decidedly bent and twisted. So, off to blag a bellhousing from Colin (Scrapman) and scouring ebay for a release arm that wasn't worn...got the only one for £16! Checked the clutch driven plate and it seemed ok but on closer inspection it was showing signs of distress (well, it would I suppose after managing the Dolomites mostly in third gear and no clutch) so another butchers on ebay for a Sierra 23 spline 8.5" plate. Took the MX5 seats out for a clean and to allow some replacement carpet sections and a proper go at extending the gearbox tunnel. With bare floor pans I took a few pics as you never know when you'll need evidence of rust free! Target for back on the road is 2 April.
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The seller is delivering it personally!
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Yoko Blue Earth https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/c.....eGy8sCFeIp0wod2xUM2g
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Can't remember how mine worked but perhaps your original threaded bezel sunk inside the hole??
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I bought a couple of roof bars for Le Mans Classic a few years ago, fits in the gutter. Did me fine. Sorry about the crap photo.
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My Revotec fan controller/thermostatic switch crumbled to bits. Not cheap to replace but Revotec gave me trade discount on a replacement. Probably my fault as never kept up to date with anti-freeze - water ratio. I've removed it now and gone back to original after engine rebuild. All good now, well it was on the last 10CR.
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Ha ha Laurence...apparently you can! Wrap is very expensive (you'll need loads!) and mine started to fall apart so took it off. I have moved my fuel supply pipes to the rear of the engine and I think that helps keep the fuel cooler, electric fuel pump helps as well.
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As Rob & Nick suggest. Mechanical means 'Bob Weights' or the shaft they're mounted on.
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When you say "knocking" do you mean pinking? What is the timing set (degrees BTDC) at idle.