lancepar
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If your horn is not working, try this. Have a look at the joint between the column and the rack. There should be a braided wire to provide the negative continuity. Now slacken the pinch bolt securing the joint to the spline on the rack, spray some contact cleaner/penertrating fluid down the splines, grab the steering wheel and rock it gently in a rotating motion. Re-tighten the pinch bolt and I reckon this will restore your horn to normal. It did for mine anyway.
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My pressure relief valve some times sticks on cold start up and I know because the oil light doesn't go out. I remove it inspect it for wear, clean it and after refitting and starting engine, oil light goes out. No problem with a hot engine however.
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You might want to refit the door incase after removing and refitting the skin that the bottom corner does not stick out.
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Hi Stephen, I'm in Quarry Bank. I just re-read your message and realize you want to stop with Triumph, got you mixed up with someone else who was contemplating another makers engine. Sorry , link no longer available Lance
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Stephen, Worcester19 Are you in the Worcester area????????
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I aint bought anything. I have a biking matey that had an operation last year that means he cant bend to get in his Supra, I just thought it may be suitable to someone for a transplant.
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3ltr Toyota Supra
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Admin' please remove this message if it is not allowed. If anyone is after a non-triumph straight six and manual gearbox, send me a PM.
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As the guide from Baz. Plus Disconnect the battery otherwise if you have overdrive and expose the terminals from the gear knob, like I did, they touch together while fiddling and its no big deal but hearing the relay click in and out is a bit annoying. No pads on my car. I don't remove the seats if just removing the tunnel, just push them right back and cover them. I would probably only remove the pull out seat bases if taking out the gearbox. I remove the heater knobs and then the centre dash section leaving it hanging, this allows me access to the top dash support which are cap head and bolt on mine. Radio out. Fixiings at base of support removed from chassis. The support on mine is not to bad to remove but is a bugger to get back in. Remove carpet from foot wells and tunnel. Remove tunnel fixings, the original pressed washers are available from a guy in the midlands via ebay if you need any. On my car some of the fixings are from the engine bay side of the bulkhead, don't know if this is the norm. I struggled a bit to remove the tunnel over the gearlever, because although I removed the knob I didn't remove the gear lever and overdrive wiring. The gearlever comes off easily BTW. HTH
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If you have an overdrive car then the gear knob is held either side with screwed fixings, are they tight? (I could have said have you checked you don't have a loose knob but thought -- no) (naughty)
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Maybe after running low on fuel one of the carbs has sucked up some crud and blocked the main jet or blocked the needle valve for the float. I would start by running the engine and carefully remove a front plug cap then a rear plug cap one at time momentarily (don't give yourself a shock, insulate yourself). If it makes no difference to the running it's not firing on all cylinders and will indicate which carb may be blocked. It could also show up an ignition fault. Rule out the simple things first.
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Have a look at this word doc. See if it helps in setting up the carbs.
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What Clive said. The lever is threaded but the knob is not and is held in place by a threaded fitting either side, the one inside the knob (C30623) is a bit awkward to get on and tighten. In Rimmers image it is shown in the wrong place BTW.
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This is the OE, the coil in the pipe takes the flexing and it's held at the bell housing in a grommet and bracket. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ImagePopUp.aspx?i=GRID005555
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Ditto what Danny said. Mine used to do the same if left unused, then once freed would work fine till the next extended unused period. I think its a build up of crud in the M/cylinder. Recently. Mine stopped sticking but the bite position went down as well, so I stripped both cylinders and you should have seen the state of the fluid that came out of the m/cylinder. After a thorough clean and reassembly, the system was loosing pressure. (not keeping the clutch open). So I changed both cylinders. Works fine now. I intended fitting a remote bleeder but ran out of time. My local Triumph outlet does pattern parts less than half the price of the OE ones, without checking £62.00 for the two. 8)