molten

Changes I rings and although solenoid is operating, the od still does not select. Beginning to suspect that something missing on od😩

peterhlewis wrote:   guess the problem was due to being unsed for too many years then being forced into life,      Wondering if this is the problem with mine. Not been used for year or two but was rebuilt. Everything looks clean but just wondering if imperial o-rings were used on rebuild. Might just change them and see if it makes any difference.

Very interested as I have exactly the same problem on my refurbished box. . Did the strip & clean sort the problem? Or was the problem with the O rings? I can hear the solenoid working on mine wondered if it was not quite operating far enough. I understand that the solenoid activates the o/d under oil pressure so should have correct pressure as oil is at max. Maybe the o-rings are a tad to small perhaps. Interested to lnow how you get yours fixed as mine will likely be same. Thanks Scott

2009 wrote:Hi A common problem with the J type if it's been stood a while is the plunger sticks so although you can hear the solenoid it's not throwing the plunger so see if this is free first. Cheers Jerry Noticed a couple of copper washers on solenoid. To remove solenoid the to check above, do i have to drop gbox oil? Thanks

Hello Another niggle that some of you fella's may be able to advise on hopefully. A few months back I bought a rebuilt gearbox complete with j type od of a guy on ebay. Box looks like it has indeed been rebuilt so no doubts there. Eventually got round to fitting the box. However, although there is good operation of the od solenoid from the switch, the od does not seem to be working. I have heard that some od struggle when oil in box is cold but have my doubts about this. Any advice gents? Thanks Scott

Got new bell housing centre and seal and they look right. My bell housing is the early 1500 without the 3compression springs recesseses that later 1500 bell housing have. Considering that i am fitting a later j- type, will this give me any probs if i juat fit minus the 3 compression springs between gearbox and bell housing? Thanks

Hi Nick The insert is the scroll type and would seem narrower Id. The box i now have must be later jtype. I pressume that later ones have bigger id?

Just bought a rebuilt j type overdrive on single rail box. Had to takebell housing off previous single rail box but bell housing oil seal wont go over input shaft as its base diameter is bigger than the no overdrive input shaft!! Is there another bell housing oil seal that has larger internal diameter? Thanks

Also... The original clutch driven plate seems to have a flat boss (to flywheel) side wheras the new onehas a raised boss. See pic. Will this be a problem? Cheers

Another dim question: I got some stainless a2 socket cap screws for clutch cover plate to flywheel. Do you think they will be ok? Thanks Scott

JohnD wrote:molten, "the less than level surface of the sump sealing face" Yes John the 'sump' sealing face not the block sealing face Will dolly the sump sealing face as suggested. Thanks.

Will use a bit of petrol to wipe surfaces but engine in situ so will have to apply seal to sump only. Cheers markus. On another matter, I have two single rail gear lever with overdrive switch. One is shorter than other and think one of them ia from a dolomite. Which one is likely to be rhe spitfire one. Any ideas?

Cheers Marcus i got some dirko seal. Does it nees be applied to both sufaces?

Not had much jots with paper gaskets. Would some modern silcone rubber gasket seal be ok without paper gasket due to the less than level surface of the sump sealing face? What think you?

Thanks Nick

Thanks Nick

Whilst my gearbox is out the car for a rebuild, I am considering fixing that oil leak at the base of the back plate that I have. Obviously, I will need to un-mount the engine and reove the back plate but is it possible to do this without having to lift the engine out of the car completely? Hope some ingenious individual has done this succeasfully?? Thanks Scott

Whilst my gearbox is out the car for a rebuild, I am considering fixing that oil leak at the base of the back plate that I have. Obviously, I will need to un-mount the engine and reove the back plate but is it possible to do this without having to lift the engine out of the car completely? Hope some ingenious individual has done this succeasfully?? Thanks Scott

Nick_Jones wrote:18mm tip mainshaft used the same gears.  The bore inside the input shaft for the pilot bearing needs to be increased though. Nick Thts tru nick. Will collect a complet d-type box tomorow and check ovr wih  view to bolt on and go. Filing that, will speak to dave at canleys nd see if he can do deal on hd mainshaft and rebuild kit. Cheers nick

Slimboyfat wrote: I think you must have been quoted x2 on that, it should be more like; http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=&ptno=tkc923hd Well spotted. Looks like I was looking at the one on Rimmers site!! That one from canleys was the one iwas intending to buy aswell!! Plus another £100 for the rebuild kit from Paddocks. Thanks Scott

peterhlewis wrote:OD mainshaft is tkc923,   unless you upgrade to a mainshaft 18mm spigot this typical failure will return again in the future bear in mind this design started with the standard eight and it the weak point . Mike Paporth can supply mainshaft and stem gears with the big spigot Pete Hi Pete Thanks for the info mate. Gears look ok. Do stem gears require replacing to accomodate the bigger 18mm dia of HD mainshaft? I am selling this car and just dont want to sell with any problems hence the possible rebuild. As such I dont want to go to the added expense of a heavy duty mainshaft at £200 a pop plus £100 for rebuild kit! A standard rebuild (original part mainshaft) will be sufficient unless I find a suitable alternative box. Cheers matey But if I was keeping, I would def use HD mainshaft with 18mm

Anyone know if paddocks o/d gearbox rebuild kits are any good, quality-wise? Dont think they do d-type mainshaft tho!

Ok gents. Thanks Looks like my only real option is a replacement mainshaft! Will have to check canleys etc. Cheers scott

Hi Nick thanks for posting. Could the mainshaft be repaired by appling weld to the tip then turning down to dimension on lathe? If not, i will eitjer need to pick up spare or as you say scrap it and get another box.

Hope these pics come out ok of mi mobile. Thought please?