dolomiteman
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Silly me, I was thinking bottom pulley, but visualising bottom sprocket; Of course you don't need to remove the timing gear!
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Silly me, I was thinking bottom pulley, but visualising bottom sprocket; Of course you don't need to remove the timing gear!
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You'll have to take off the timing gear, so a timely operation would be inspect and consider replacement. However, make yourself aware of the issues surrounding timing tensioner quality, along with curved guides being seemingly unavailable at the moment. I think Robsport do a kit with curved guides though .
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You'll have to take off the timing gear, so a timely operation would be inspect and consider replacement. However, make yourself aware of the issues surrounding timing tensioner quality, along with curved guides being seemingly unavailable at the moment. I think Robsport do a kit with curved guides though .
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Physically, you'd be able to bolt it on, but the bore on the 1850 is lees than TR7, so you'd end up with a step between head and block and the fire rings on the gasket would be exposed. If it ran at all, I doubt it would last long...
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I have a late 1850 cylinder head here in VGC. It actually belongs to a chap in Wick, top of Scotland, who subsequently to buying the head, sold his 1850! I imagine he'll let it go, I can check, but I know he paid £100 for it...
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C'mon Dave, you know it has nothing to do with alloy heads on iron blocks, it's the studs that bind in the head! You have to cut the bell housing on the LT77 to avoid the rack and subframe cross member in a Dolomite.
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Nonsense. The combustion chambers are different shapes on each of the three types of head.
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With regard the driver's seat, do you need the bit you sit on or the bit you lean against? I have good spare covers for both.