Tinkerer
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http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=134&t=1122832&i=40 Found this link. I had a pair of these
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You're probably already aware that original wide minilite wheels were available in the correct pcd. I sold a pair of rear ones 2 -3 years ago, they were 13" and may well have been in the widths you're looking for so they may be out there. I believe they may have been ex works but i'm not 100%. I sold them because I couldn't find the other pair a set.
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Looking at uprated hubs, does anyone know what size bearings are used. It was suggested that GT6 outer was used but this appears to have a larger inner diameter. Those that do supply these hubs appear unwilling to share this info.
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Looking at uprated hubs, does anyone know what size bearings are used. It was suggested that GT6 outer was used but this appears to have a larger inner diameter. Those that do supply these hubs appear unwilling to share this info.
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Will checkout the TR3 blocks. Will try some cable ties and maybe whizzing up some sort of additional support bracket. Very nice Spitfire Wimpus
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Hi, Had choke cables from Rimmers and Robsport neither have lasted, I suspect they come from the same source. Finished the choke cable swap today, much nicer and more accurate to set and the dash light works. Found out today that the 12 month old flexi carb mounts have broken again, not bad three sets in three years and a massive 2000 miles. I've heard about some alloy mounts but cant find a current supplier, was some Dolomite guy. Luckily I have a set of parts to do or not a 16V conversion and have just found that the original material mounts are A1 and an awful lot thinner than the aftermarket items. (thats tomorrow morning accounted for) I was tempted to go to speedy cables, they can do any cable any end. Send them your old as a template. I used them several times in the past and always received good quality items. They used to be in North London but now in Wales.
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Anyone else having a problem with poor quality choke cables, we've been through about 4 in two years, the alloy parts appear to be made of cream cheese rather than metal. I grew up on cars with manual chokes so its not a user issue. Fed up with spending money on them I sourced one (ebay) from the lovely 1980's Triumph Acclaim aka Honda Acclaim I believe. This is a rachet type mechanism so no more twist-lock and it has a warning light switch. You need to cut off the ends to fit the carb end and shorten the whole thing by about 300mm, cut off the 2 bullet connectors and crimp on two 6mm male spade items and drill out the dash bracket a little. It also has a useful figure of 8 wire clip that allows a slight bend to be formed just above the carbs Result, perfect choke setting and it feels a lot more substantial than the standard type.
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I know how it feels, had a recent visit to the axle stands due to gearbox failure, found a nice Sd1 Vitesse D suffix box, very handy as I have a 3.08 crown wheel and pinion ready to go in along with my own MGF rear disc conversion, so hopefully no more praying to the God of handbrakes come MOT time. Also have a spare 3.08 /1 (37-12) CW&P if anyone is looking for a Christmas present for themselves,
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Looks great, I think your car is in a different class to ours
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Hi Beans, Thanks for the reply. Managed to sort the wipers today, removed the spring, ground off the rivet holding the two parts together, drilled a new hole 6mm further down the arm, cut off 6mm inc the original spring hole and riveted it all back together using the old rivet hole for the spring, squeezed it in a vice and a fresh splash of paint. It now sits at the same angle as the passenger side when parked and rises to parallel with the A post/screen surround. Also I may have sourced a radiator, 1980's/90's alloy Audi 2.0 item looks to have the holes roughly in the right places and would provide greater cooling, just needs a couple of mountings and considerably cheaper than a TR7 upgraded item.
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Hi, Does anyone have any advice on these issues, drivers side (RHD) pantograph wiper blade (top) points down toward the trim panel at bottom of the screen when parked and when in use the bottom edge goes on to the A post, the pantograph doesn't appear to be turning the blade enough, the fixings at the spindle are correctly fitted. Also radiator is looking very tired now, upgrade items are expensive. Has anyone fitted an alternative off the shelf item. have seen a couple of possibilities.
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Thanks for the replies, I suspected the new route could be via the tunnel, but hadnt actually got under there for a look. Cut off sounds like a good idea too, i'll have to investigate. Currently dealing with lack of gears, started with reverse and now includes 1st and 2nd, reading the forums seems it could be a grub screw/adjustment issue. Rather annoying as i've just polybushed the gearbox remote after some strange feelings when selecting 2nd, remote was bouncing off the prop and also a new rear gearbox mount. possibly having put the remote back where it belongs the parts are no longer jammed together at strange angles
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Hi, Don't know if its been covered already but has anyone re-routed the fuel pipe, the more I see it running along the sill the less comfortable am with it especially at the rate the clips self destruct
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Hi On the back of the servo surrounding the rod, its seems to be a bakelite type plastic. some others have rubber dust covers but the SD1 servo we have had the hard plastic with a metal cap. When fitted it protrudes into the car through the centre bulkhead hole.
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Hi new to these forums and have been working on a 7 for my son. I see your post is a few months old but we just fitted the late SD1 girling servo and master without a problem. Shortened the rod by 25mm and dropped it straight in. It clears the throttle cable and clutch servo by about 2mm and the step in the bulkhead by about 1mm. I also cut the black plastic sleeve back a little and used some large washers and nylocs and a new bulkhead gasket when refitting. The mounting studs have the same PCD as the original.