Dave Bunney

Bank holiday boot repair was my latest task. Next job to repaint the section above to colour match.

Currently trying, emphasis on trying, to strip down some spare 1300fwd front drive shafts/cv/hub assemblies. I want to rebuild them and have them ready to go for when or if they are needed. They are not attached to the vehicle either. Now can anyone help with ways to remove the disc and hub? I don't have a puller, yet anyway, and have tried the bolts through the rear of the carried to "push" the disc etc off the CV. With no luck and I don't want to risk damaging the discs. And secondly does anyone have the measurements of the triumph 1300fwd CV joints. Looking for: I have found a seller which states 1300fwd. But I have nothing to compare and check this against until I get mine out, which at this rate may never happen! Image attached to see if it is correct. Thanks for any help anyone can give !!

I can happily do that!! Plenty of stuff I'm doing or planning with mine.

Cheers both for the reply, I'll get onto superflex/Chris witor. Cheers

Good afternoon All, I am looking for some advice to change /replace my 1300fwd strut to sub frame bushes as they are very old and deteriorated. The parts book supplies me with 3 part numbers, 516037 , 516037, and 517951, dependant and relating to different shoulder shank part numbers. Upon cross referencing the latter part number is used mainly, 517951. This part is available on Rimmers web site and listed as rear link bush kit. I have also found superflex poly bushes sell 516038, but would this be beneficial or detrimental to be polybushed or should it stay as rubber? Basically looking for someone to hopefully give some input and help if possible, unless any one has any for sale for both sides 🙂. Cheers.

Evening, Don't suppose you still have the shadow blue reclining seats at all do you? Thanks in advance.

This will be my first RBRR, however I have spoken to a veteran and will be ready!! Here is Gerald, my 1300fwd.

Evening. Quick question regarding car registration. Is that done when entering for the rbrr or is there an area in your account/membership area to do so. I can't find anywhere to check mine or amend/add if needed 🤷🏻‍♂️. Cheers in advance!!

Quick update on my carpet install. Made in sections to allow easy replacement of parts if need be. The slits down the back will be covered. The slits allow the carpet to contour around the cars shape without issue or gluing down.

Evening all, painting and sorting the interior floorpan and sorting out the carpet out as the old one is knackered and damp.

Really hoping to enter. If I get in I'll be a first timer car and crew! Will the link be in this thread or just on the homepage to enter?

Yeah that's the thing. Some people get carried away with temp fixes and rather than unfortunately do the painstaking bit or pay to get it done they just quick fix and move on and it's someone else's problem. Pretty much like my leak in the first place. Yeah looking to fully sign up asap too. 👍🏼

I bought the car with no intention of selling, but renovate. It's for me to drive and enjoy for many a year yet, I hope!! And due to weather it's a temporary fix. To weld this properly the whole dash needs removing and at this time of year I just need the car to be waterproof otherwise bigger issues will arise from it especially from how much water was getting in. So not a bodge really as that would imply (to me at least) its been done quickly/incorrectly and will work without much care. But I've taken a lot of time and research to see the best way to repair it without being able to use my first choice of welding. That's the issue with older cars, many owners and many people's own ideas of what is correct or right and wrong. So much tinkering from each individual that you end up with a vehicle with many "bodges" as well as intuitive designs and flaws. So hope that sort of explains it a bit 🤷🏻‍♂️.

It is yes under the dash and behind the wiring loom. It would be a dash out job really. It's all because of the drainage areas on the driver's side full of soil and crud. So just rotted through. Bonnet seal seems good to be honest. Removed the wiper motor to get "better" access. But it's so limited. I've used fiberfix patches to stick on the inside to cover the holes. Then chemical metal on the outside under the wiper motor to fill it as well then primed it. just need some top coat to finish, refit the motor and should be good. also trying to keep a cover over the windows and bonnet vent only when it rains to help the situation and prevent water getting in. Progress in the right direction, just annoyed at fixing previous owners neglect and "creative" ideas.

So here is a pic of where the water was getting in. Couldn't see these originally because of all of the crap on top hiding it. As you can see, daylight, lots of it!!!