MarshallandMia

This is absolutely hilarious! 🤣🤣 I can clearly picture it. Recent discovery on my trip to a Triumph specialist in Potter's Bar to have the carbs tuned correctly. Apparently I've got some kind of a hot cam, and that is contributing to what he called 'hunting', and also the porpoising. It is somewhat improved but he said it likely won't go away. He did suggest upgrading air filters and maybe even carbs and needles to match the cam and the improved manifold/exhaust. Surely not everyone with a Fast Road cam has this issue though?? I did check the play in the accelerator (there was some) and put a rubber bushing in there. The play has now stopped, but it didn't seem to help much. I'm not ruling it out, but right now I'm not going to go through the motions of fitting one from a Mk4. I've spent WAY too much money for now...unless there's a free one out there???

Right, so I've been to a Triumph specialist in Potter's Bar to have my carbs tuned a bit. He says the sound is 'scuttle shake'. The only thing he suggested was to check the braces behind the dash. I guess I'll check them again, haha! He also said the propshaft (a belt type, or something) was in backwards and that's probably where a lot of vibration is coming from, and potentially the wheels. I don't know if I have the PO to thank for that, or the first guys that replaced the universals. I've had some really awful luck with this little car. 😂

Thanks Tim, That's exactly what I need. I did reach out to the only person I know of locally but it hasn't happened as of yet. I'm near Sudbury, Suffolk. I just don't get it; there aren't that many places for a noise this loud to hide!

When we installed spring conversion there was some positive camber, which was then about 90% corrected with a 1/2" block on the diff (I now only have a few degrees positive). We then corrected the toe-in with shims on the radius arms. I can't do anything about the stripped body bolt without lifting the body up; there's no way to get a tap in there as it sits, I don't think. I admit that I did consider (as a temporary measure) coming in from the bottom of the chassis wing and putting in a through bolt using a plate on the bottom to spread the load. Ultimately decided not to do that. The others bolts are solid, and all have spacers, and I just drive it while being mindful. It doesn't seem inclined to pull out. The popping (could also be described as rattling) is most definitely coming from the top of the bulkhead somewhere but does seem like it 'moves' across the car as she is taken through corners and over bumps. It cannot be recreated when parked. I also considered the bonnet and have tried making adjustments. But short of taking it completely off and giving it a try, any adjustments don't seem to make it better or worse. Maybe I'll just take it down the road unbuckled. Regarding the PO...sigh...(I actually did sigh there, as I sit thinking about what to write here). I'm torn by my morality and am reluctant about any disclosure. Silly, really. He would deserve any kind of whistleblowing or even a good old-fashioned pub alley a$$ kicking. But it's my fault, too. I should have dug deeper into the car but he earned my trust. The fact that when I tried to contact him a couple days after purchase and found that he'd blocked my phone and email speaks volumes...after he had wooed me with lots of prepurchase correspondence, over an hour spent going over the car via video chat and tea and cakes when I arrived. He knew what he did.

FYI THIS DOES INCLUDE REGISTRATION, V5C, AND NUMBER PLATES!!

I've attached a representative sample of the chassis for sale... Open to offers.

Alright, I have more symptoms for the forum... The popping MOVES across the car likely due to flexing, the sound changing slightly at each location. It almost sounds like two long metal pieces that are flexing along their length from left to right as the car changes direction, but it also does it while going straight and I hit a bump on one side or the other. It can be felt slightly in the tunnel when my leg rests against it, but the source is almost certainly higher up near the bottom of the windscreen/bulkhead (very loud from that location). On another related note: I'm getting an occasional pop from behind me when pulling out from a stop, forward or reverse. But all the Ujoints have been done, bushes done, and shafts checked. And I showed you the video of the propshaft (above). I don't remember hearing it a couple months ago, maybe since before we put the shims in the radius arm (which I know are tight). I was recently talking with a Triumph guy who claimed that with the swing spring coversion (from Rimmer, w/1/2" block) you have to use longer driveshafts. I don't recall reading that ahead of time. Is this true?

Hi guys, Thanks for the responses. To RRR, we have suspected perhaps that it had to do with the throttle assembly, without success, but I will dig further into where the linkage passes through the bulkhead. There is a bit of play there. I've replaced the manifold springs already, and the arm-to-chassis spring is intact and functioning properly. @Yorkshire_spam: When I'm feeling better (just had gallbladder surgery) I'll see what I can see regarding the jet level. It seems as though I could probably see it, for a simply evaluation, through the intake, is that correct?

Hi All, Here's me chasing another problem again, and coming up empty handed. I've been taking information from multiple car forums that all use SU carbs, and I've also had 4 mechanics to work on these bloody things. The issue is best described as self-perpetuating bucking. The more I let it continue the worse it gets. It seems more likely when cold. Two ways to stop it: push the clutch, give it revs, and then go again, OR, throttle down and push through it. It happens only at low rpms, often from a stop, going over bumps at low speed, or lightly pressing the throttle after coasting in gear. We have tested and retested all electrics and even swapped parts in and out (electronic ignition). The carbs have been tuned and tweaked multiple times, and this last mechanic finally did the needles that I had been trying to get someone to do all along. He apparently hones the needles himself? I don't know what else to do, except I came by this information on another forum while searching: "check the jet height. If the jet is too high, fuel will bounce in the jet and come over the rim of the jet and surge on every bounce. The jet should be at least 0.060 below the bridge of the carb. If you need the jet higher than that, get a leaner needle." Does this mean anything to you all? It seems to be a possibility based on the description, but at the same time I can't believe any of 4 mechanics wouldn't have caught this.

Good morning all. I sincerely appreciate all the suggestions and information. I'm still on the hunt for the popping, but I'm almost certain after the process of elimination that the vibration is either the propshaft or the wire wheels. Soon enough I'll have the answer to that. The popping is as nervewracking as it is mysterious. I double-checked the H plate and saw something funny about the way it was joined to the lower dash. So, I compared it to one I pulled off another car and, lo and behold, it's 3/4" too short. Looks like the PO strikes again, as the plate was only 'sandwich bolted' to the lip of the lower dash. I swapped it out for the correct plate and I'm sure everything will be much more stable. However it did not address the popping issue.

Good morning, A fresh bump for the advertisement with an update, and if you don't like the price please make me an offer. All I have left as far as big things are the chassis, full suspension and rear diff; now available for sale as well as the engine. I'm asking £300 for the rolling chassis. The chassis is in great shape overall. Minor surface corrosion comes off with a wire brush. Only a couple little spots need repaired. Same goes for the diff. I have good information to suggest that this was a very low mileage car. The engine is as before; it had been stored with the intake off but does turn at the crank. Still have the boot lid and frame (£30), bonnet frame (£20), steel hardtop w/glass (£100) and some small bits such as indicators.

Thank you all so much for the responses and advice thus far. I don't really have any good contacts to try different wheels, but I'll stay on that as situations allow. Mia is going into the shop Friday for carb needles and maybe I can have them take a look at it. I'll certainly have them look at the propshaft since Ujoints have been replaced and, as has been pointed out, this can affect balance. As it's the easiest job for me at home, I've been continuing the search for the 'pop'. While I'm not sure I found it, I did discover that the front far side body bolt is stripped (the firewall to chassis mount)...and that could definitely be it! 😬Yikes. Let me just say, that of all the people in the world, the man I bought this from is likely the most deceitful person I've ever known. May he be judged for what he's done. He's probably somewhere on these Triumph forums. I've discovered SO many lies that he told me about this car, and there's not a thing I can do about it, except perhaps warn others (as he likes to 'fix and sell'). I'm not sure it's ethical to name names, however, even though what he did was criminal.

Good morning Gugus, I have two separate issues that I'm trying to chase down in my Mk3 Spitfire, so I'll describe each individually. First though, let me say that the PO had this car completely apart and did sort of a half-a$$ job 'restoring' it. Second, the car has ALL new suspension and steering bushings, shocks, springs, and Ujoints were checked a/o replaced. Problem 1: popping. A loud pop or creak, often repeated in rapid succession when cornering and over bumps. It sounds like metal binding and moving against another part; something flexing. It's alarmingly loud. It appears to be coming from the dash/firewall area, under the windscreen, but I've tightened every bolt I can find as I test the limits of my contortionist abilities. If anything, it might actually be worse now. Problem 2 (&3): vibration (and occasional clunk). I've reviewed forum posts here and on triumphexp. At higher speeds (above about 50) I'm getting a vibration all over the car and steering wheel. I also get a bit of a clunk at low rpms, particularly when pressing the accelerator after coasting in gear. I'm trying the process of elimination. I have wire wheels, so perhaps balance could be an issue. I have not tried pushing in the clutch at highway speeds, and I can't be sure but it's possible that it's worse in OD. I can definitely hear the OD unit spinning when it's engaged (like a washing machine in spin cycle, or perhaps my scroll saw motor turning). I jacked up the rear of the car and have found that I can turn the propshaft a bit back and forth (see video). I apologize for my ignorance, but is this normal? It shouldn't be universals as these should all be new or checked. PXL_20220307_162148014_2.mp4

In this case the gentleman liberated an old spitty from an abandoned warehouse set for demolition near his home. According to him (and the photos confirm it) it had been left largely disassembled and picked over by vandals. He chased down the owner, whose response was basically 'you can have it but all the documents have been lost', and thus far has not been willing to help secure the necessary paperwork to transfer ownership. Fast forward to present: this gentleman approached me for some parts he's missing and in the course of conversation explained his situation. I replied that I have paperwork and tags but no car (essentially), and thought maybe I could help. It doesn't sound like that's the case, however.

Haha, okay, well that clears that up. I thought I had read somewhere about people buying a registration, and thought maybe the same could be done in this case for someone building a car basically from scratch. I'm certainly not trying to do anything illegal!

Hello and thank you for reading. I purchased a heavily perished Spitfire Mk 2 to break for parts. However, it did come with a V5C and reg plates and also has the original matching number plates on the passenger side that I've now removed. I'd like to sell them all together, and I have had some interest, but I have no idea as to the legality or an asking price. Any help would be appreciated.

As an addendum to the original ad, here are a few prices and condition to go along: Sold: Wing finishers, gearbox, OD, steering column Pending: Door handles/locks, Mk2 HS2 carb and intake, steering wheel, Engine: £100. I would plan on a full rebuild, however after close inspection to the running gear it appears this may be a very low mileage car. The engine turns at the crank but the intake had been left off. Likely salvageable, especially for interchangeable parts such as the crank, bolt-ons, etc. Drop window mechanisms inc. handles: £100 for the pair. Only need window channels and rear guides for both sides. Good condition overall. Full set of running lights (brakes, indicators, etc.): £50. Untested but cosmetically in very good condition. Boot lid, frame and all hardware: £50. All range from decent to very good condition. A couple small but very repairable holes in the lid itself. Hard top glass (£50) and plastic (£20) Mk3 HS2 twin carbs missing a few bits but mostly complete: £100. Inquire for condition/pictures Mk2 4-2-1 Exhaust manifold: £20. Rusty but very solid. A shame to let this go to scrap if someone can clean it up. Seems to be missing the last inch or so. Other cheap parts include insulated gearbox tunnel w/steels in good condition, dash 'H' support, radiator, bonnet catches...... Free:• Bonnet, wheel arches with frame and stay (wings perished, center section fine; frame and stay in good condition)• Tub and rear section with decent sills (lots of good metal; could be used to make patches)• Partial set of triumph letters• Fuel tank (rusty but very solid, may be restorable)• All sheet metal not listed

Hi, I'm breaking a Mk2 in Sudbury. Many, many parts available ranging from junk to restorable to excellent. Some free, some priced accordingly. I'd prefer as little as possible to go to the scrap yard but I need to get it out of here. I bought if for the following which I will keep: Rolling chassis, seats, bumpers (though I do have a few to get rid of), and door glass. Please watch the video (it doesn't show everything), and if there's something you want or don't see feel free to ask or text! The pics are just a sample of what's here as it is a complete car. +44 7309045541