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  1. Please note parts are currently in Germany... I bought a 1500 Spitfire just for the body and have no use for the motor or anything that has to do with it. See pictures for the state it is in. It is a Californian car so the cylinder head is different than most 1500s (low compression) and it has Air Injection System, Exhaust gas recirculation, automatic choke and a catalytic converter. I have no idea if any of it works so no guarantees, no returns! I don’t need anything that has to do with the motor so the radiator, fuel tank, fuel lines etc. can all go. I am willing to deliver anything within a 100 km of Heidelberg (that includes Alsace and if I have to Basel). If I have to I will get a “cherry picker” engine crane (you pay for the rental) and remove the block. Otherwise I am willing to send parts anywhere if buyer pays for shipping (From Germany!) . I accept wire transfers and PayPal. It all must go by 1 October or it gets dumped as the rent on the garage runs out at that time. If interested send a private message. Je peux aussi répondre en francais s’il faut… Again: No guanratees, no returns! Photos: https://slotcarp.wordpress.com/1500-motor/ Ich habe einen 1500 Spitfire wegen seiner Karosse gekauft. Den Motor brauche ich nicht. Zustand, siehe Bilder. Wie man sieht hast das Ding das Air Injection System, Exhaust gas recirculation, automatisches Choke und einen Katalysator. Achtung Kalifornien Auto, Zylinderkopf ist entsprechend „angepasst“. Ob es alles funktioniert kann ich nicht sagen. Alles, was mit dem Motor zu tun hat brauche ich nicht, den Kühler, Tank, Benzin-Leitungen etc. kann alles weg. Alles ist gegen Gebot und muss bis zum 1 Okt. Verkauft werden, sonst wird es verschrottet. Dann läuft die Miete für die Garage aus. Ich kann alles selber abbauen (bis auf den auch der Motorblock: Ich habe keinen Kran) und innerhalb von 100 km von Heidelberg liefern (bis zur französischen Grenze [Elsass] und bei einem entsprechenden lockerndes Angebot auch Basel] . Mit Motorkran kann ich auch den Block transportieren (evtl Kosten Übernahme). Sonst kann alles verschickt werden gegen Übernahme der Portokosten. Auch International. Überweisung oder PayPal möglich. Keine Gewährleistung, keine Garantie, keine Rücknahme. Bei Interesse PN/DM an mich. Fotos: https://slotcarp.wordpress.com/1500-motor/ Je peux aussi répondre en francais s’il faut…
  2. Hello everyone, Just made a very upsetting discovery on the 1300fwd engine I've been slowly stripping and rebuilding. I hadn't taken the timing cover off until today, because the crank pulley nut was being awkward (mostly because I didn't remove it while the engine was attached to the car). Now what do I discover, the woodruff key slot is completely shagged! Firstly, is this crank a write-off? I think it must be, can't imagine you can weld and re-cut the slot. Secondly, is £50 inc postage for a crank off ebay reasonable? Because there might be one that's suitable or it might also be wrecked in some other way. It seems cheap to me, as I wasn't expecting to see one! Thirdly, what could have caused this? Isn't the key supposed to snap before lumps fall out of the crank?! It's just a standard 1300 engine, single-carb. There was no history with it but so far the engine has appeared to be untouched. There was also some damage to the distributor drive gear which I found a few weeks ago. Other than that it's been in very good nick. Thanks for any advice!
  3. Hi all, Just just bought a 1500 Dolly, and would like to convert to overdrive. I have all the bits from an overdrive 1500 spitfire, so I just need the dolomite specific bits. I'm guessing these would be gear lever, prop, and possibly gearbox mounting. Can anyone tell me if there is anything else, or even better offer the parts for sale. Thanks, Dave Jones
  4. Hi all, I am currently restoring and reassembling a 1972 Toledo 1300, basically its an abandoned project that I have recently purchased for peanuts , but have a question regarding he engine. Engine code is DH84297HE. Am I correct in assuming is not its original Toledo 1300 engine and its from a Dolomite. Does'nt bother me in the slightest to be honest, just interested what its from and its spec. Cheers.
  5. Gday, Well, like the title says- Does anyone know if toledo hubs are the same as vitesse/gt6 type? Will they fit a vitesse stub? I know dolomite hubs (with the top hat discs) use a stub axle with the same bearing diameters but  the stub is shorter in length- but the toledo's with the disc mounted behind the hub- I am not sure. I have some spare vitesse uprights and I am hoping I can use toledo hubs to complete the set- Cheers
  6. I've a sprint engine fitted in my TR7. The front of the engine has always had a little mist of oil on it but noticed recently it's getting worse so thinking time to do the front crank oil seal. Is there anything I need to be aware of when changing this or is it just a simple one out one in sort of job?
  7. I've a sprint engine fitted in my TR7. The front of the engine has always had a little mist of oil on it but noticed recently it's getting worse so thinking time to do the front crank oil seal. Is there anything I need to be aware of when changing this or is it just a simple one out one in sort of job?
  8.   Hi all, I know the combustion chambers are a slightly different shape, but will a 7 head work on an 1850 block, as a quick and dirty stopgap until I can get the '7 engine done?  Thanks, Tim.
  9. My newly-acquired Toledo has rather tired front seats and I would like to find something to replace them. Two problems: 1 - It's a 2-door car, so the front seats need to be able to tip forwards to let people into and out of the back 2 - The interior is "tan" which is a very orangey brown, so finding something to match (or at least, not look glaringly bad) will be "fun" I want something supportive, with a head restraint; one objective for the car is the 2018 RBRR so they have to be good for 48hrs continuous occupation. A design that has a separate HR looks (IMO) inherently more authentic, but then again I wasn't planning installing full harness so a seat that fits the bill in every other respect would be ok. Any suggestions, anyone?
  10.   Hi all, newby to the forum, having accidentally been brought back to the fold having run 1850's and Sprints back in the '80's. Just bought a late 1850 for its overdrive gearbox, but on seeing the car, I want to keep it- it's a really, REALLY solid 'shell, with none of the normal rust anywhere, except in the back doors. Seriously the best Dolly shell I've seen since back in the day...   It was sold with a head gasket problem, and having just removed the head, suspiciously easily...!!! (no seized bolts, even the studs came out relatively easily with the 2 nut method) I discover a big chunk of metal missing between the waterway and cyls 3 and 4...   Just wondered if anyone has a spare head for sale, or knows of a reputable place to have it welded/skimmed?   Also, is the head the same as a TR7's- I MAY have a 7 engine stuck in the garage from a V8 conversion I did years ago... I'll post some pictures of this little gem once the poxy rain stops..!!!
  11.   Hi, anyone got a Dolly Sprint axle for sale or exchange for an 1850 one? Have an inkling that my newly acquired 1850 may end up Sprinted...!!
  12. Anyone out there got a good 1500 Dolly starter motor they want to sell or know a source of reasonably priced reconditioned ones. Cheapest I can find is Canley classics @£95 and they don't hold any stock... Somewhere within North Hampshire/Surrey/Berkshire would be even better but will do a post job if I cant find one locally... I certainly want to avoid paying Rimmers 170 quid for one, that's for sure!
  13. good morning Triumph owners, I am new on this forum, and don't actually own a Triumph, I only own a steering column.  The reason I am online, is that I have used a Triumph Dolomite steering column in my DAX cobra, which is now undergoing export checks for Germany.  The German authorities criticise the steering lock, because with the key inserted but in the "fully off" position, the steering lock, clicks in, and locks the steering. According to "them" this is a malfunction, and the steering should only lock when the key has been removed.  I always thought that, back in the day, this was normal, but I have been told that this was never the case, and the lock has to be repaired.  Does anybody have any information on how these locks worked, and are supposed to work ?  Thanks in advance..  Dominic
  14. Hello all. I am the proud owner of a 1967 1300fwd, purchased last autumn. Very nice and tidy but zero history (reg OLT 655E, please tell me if it was yours!). On draining the oil last year I was alarmed to find a piece of metal about half the size of a tic-tac came out of the sump. Hence I felt the need to have a look at the bottom end, which is a bit of a chore on these cars! So I thought I could lift the crankcase bit of the engine off, leaving the gearbox and diff in place. Followed the advice in the workshop manual but I cannot get the flippin input shaft out! Had a puller on it and wound it up as much as I dared but it won't pull out. The shaft will move back and forth a bit but will not come out. Next plan: I thought if I loosened off the clutch and took all the sump bolts out, I might be able to just move the crankcase forward enough to get it clear of the input shaft. After lots of heaving and ho-ing standing in the engine bay, this approach has got me nowhere. Any ideas welcome! Do I have to take the whole lot out in one go then? And if I do that, will I be able to get the input shaft out?! I don't really know how to proceed so have been ignoring it for a few weeks but want to get it all back together for Easter if I can. Any advice or encouragement gratefully received. Pete
  15. Toledo127

    Two Door Toledo

    Hi all ,does anyone have for sale or thinking of selling a 2 door Toledo solid cars but all considered cash waiting thanks
  16. Toledo127

    Two Door Toledo

    Hi all ,does anyone have for sale or thinking of selling a 2 door Toledo solid cars but all considered cash waiting thanks
  17. hi, i am thinking of buying a dolomite 1850 auto 1972. can anyone tell me what to look for? as it has been a while since i have worked on them. many thanks, tony.
  18. Hi, I have recently taken ownership of a 1979 Dolomite Sprint that requires a new inner track rod. I can easily find replacement track rod ends but have had not luck locating a replacement inner track rod. Any help in finding out where I could get one would be much appreciated. Kr Pete
  19. Thinking of going to look at this Toledo, any thoughts ?. I was checking the classifieds for a car that the missus can run around in over the winter and this caught her eye.   http://m.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C795254
  20. Hi all, What are the pitfalls of swapping a Spitfire Mk3 engine into a Dolomite 1300? Still weighing up options as a 'back up car' for RBRR if I don't get my 2000 on the road in time. There's a tidy Dolomite 1300 I have my eye on, but a 1300 engine may be a bit slow, but I have a Mk3 engine 'in stock' as it were. I also have the overdrive gearbox from the Spitfire I could install too, if it will go in easily enough.
  21. I bought this Wedgewood Blue Triumph 1300 for £200 from a lovely Gentleman in Suffolk. My original plan was to strip her and use her as a donor for my other car. However, my wife has fell in love with her and wants me to restore her back to natural beauty. I started by stripping the rear of the car to assess the amount of rot and rusted panels (Bearing in mind the old girl had been sitting in a field for over 2 years exposed to the elements!! After careful removal of the rear mats, spare wheel and other trim panels, I was pleased to find she had rotted in the usual places ( right corner by the wheel arch) Both trailing ends of the rear wings have corroded badly, but overall she is in good fettle. Top tip: Obtain lots of clear self closing freezer bags and a permanent marker. When stripping a classic car, keep every nut bolt and piece of trim, even if it breaks or is rotted out. These parts are getting harder to source now and unless you are after a concourse or purist restoration there are Companies who can manufacture parts for you from the original damaged item. More to follow!!
  22. Hello overthere ! Just after a 100km trip (mainly motorway at 70mph) the oil warning light lighted up when the engine is at low revs ...   When cold it is fine but now when warm the warning lights gets on at low to med revs. The oil level is normal, the car is running fine, no overheating ... I suppose the culprit is the oil pump so few questions : - can it be the oil filter that is blocked ? - is it possible to change the oil pump in situ ? do I need a new one or can it be reoaired  DIY ? - is there other area to look ? Thanks very much for helping ! I'm posting in the 1300 and Spitfire section. Gilles from Dieppe (FR)
  23. Hi, Would anyone know where I could find a Vernier sprocket for a sprint? Piper and Kent no longer have listings for them as I am sure they used to. Thanks in advance for any info. Regards Scott New Zealand
  24. Hi all, My Toledo failed it's WOF (same as your MOT I think) for 'steering not self centering' and I'm not sure what to do about it. Does anyone have an idea what would be the most likely cause of that issue? I've basically left the car for the past few weeks as I was totally over it, and advertised it for sale. I got one response but the bloke failed to show up to view the car. I now feel that I will need to get it roadworthy again in order to sell it. It's got new tyres and the fitter did the alignment. I've had the rack out and 'loosened' it up a bit with shims removed / added until it felt freer than it was. Any advice would be appreciated. Glen.
  25. Hi Guys, After I got my Toledo I wondered what this little vent thing is that I've indicated with the arrow in this photo... As you can see, it's a home made looking thing and is attached on top of a short tube off a 'valve' looking thing. If you follow the hose going from the rocker cover, you come to a tee where another short hose goes to the carb and the other hose continues to the strange vent thing. Well I went for a drive today and when I got home, and could smell something that was like melted plastic. I looked under the bonnet and found this red blob of plastic on the exhaust manifold along with the grey vent top thing... Here is a photo from above showing the path of the hose from the rocker cover to the tee and on to the vent pipe... Should that be there? From what I've found online, the hose should go directly from the rocker cover to the carb. Is that right? Appreciate you advice and input. Cheers, Glen.
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