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Associate Member Details

  1. Came from a donor car bought for other parts Had been rebuilt and test run but never used in anger. Now stripped and viewable less pistons +20thou. (these were used by me on my car, they were as new ) Wide Big End Journals. and matching Rods. Gear box untested but smooth. Lever and gearchange extension missing some parts. All is oily and needs reassembly. Engine would suit various 2ltr Triumphs Needs to be inspected. Contact me Paul on 07517 298279
  2. I have had my 2000 for 10 years with the battery that the PO had, and I think it is getting to the point where I need a new one as the starting is getting sluggish. The current one is a 063 which has a CCA of 380, but for my MGB I have a 075 which has a CCA of 550, although I'd need to juggle the connections as they are on the opposite side. What battery do others on here use?
  3. As a newbie to the big Saloon, I am learning all the time about my new car & engine.  Can anyone advise on what camshafts work well in the 2000?  Discounting the standard one for a moment, do for example 2.5PI 150bhp camshafts help the 2000 or is that a mismatch?  Then there the aftermarket Piper, Newman etc.etc. options. Of course there is the option to drop in a 2.5, but having driven one recently,I prefer the rev-ier  nature of the 2000. I saw this table on the Chris Witor website, which lists the Triumph cam shaft options and it prompted the thought process https://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/camshaft_applications.pdf
  4. As a newbie to the big Saloon, I am learning all the time about my new car & engine.  Can anyone advise on what camshafts work well in the 2000?  Discounting the standard one for a moment, do for example 2.5PI 150bhp camshafts help the 2000 or is that a mismatch?  Then there the aftermarket Piper, Newman etc.etc. options. Of course there is the option to drop in a 2.5, but having driven one recently,I prefer the rev-ier  nature of the 2000. I saw this table on the Chris Witor website, which lists the Triumph cam shaft options and it prompted the thought process https://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/camshaft_applications.pdf
  5. Will these carb fit my 2000 mk2 1969 Auto? Zenith Stromberg CD150SEV 3334L and 3334R?   Mine have the mixture adjusts underneath on the float bowl. Cant see how to adjust these (if they fit)?  
  6. I have a lot of play in my steering wheel? When the bonnet is opened and one looks down to the steering shaft where it enters the cars bulkhead thats where the play is. There are two rubber bushes and just below them the UJ joint. It seems as if something has gone adrift on my steering or something is very badly worn?
  7. Just upgrading my MK1 2000 headlights to halogen units and wanted to remove the light switches and wiper and washer switches as they are a little intermittent, if working at all, so what is the easiest method of removal?
  8. What is the consensus of opinion upgrading a MK1 by fitting a anti roll bar? Is it worth the cost and effort for the improvement in handling?
  9. I'm restoring a MK1 Triumph 2000 that did the RBRR in 2008 (Valencia blue) I was wondering if anybody has any pictures of the event and if my car happened to appear in any old pictures , in the background of a picture of your car perhaps at one of the stops. It would be great to find some existence of it being on the road .  JJL 328F is the reg  One more Triumph saved from the scrapyard !   Thanks Baller  
  10. There I was minding my own business rebuilding the rally 2000 for the Rally of the tests (2 weeks!) until I bled the clutch... pop and the clutch fork lever went limp and the piston popped out of the slave... For the life of me I have no idea why its decided to do this. Has anyone experienced this before? Until I drop the box out again I can only speculate. I believe the fork slipper pads have travelled too far and popped out of the release bearing carrier. But why I have no idea. This is a completely rebuilt J type (used it previously) mated to a early 2000 MK1 narrow head engine. Everything is rebuilt and pristine. New slipper pads, carrier, release bearing, AP clutch etc. A set up I've used umpteen times before. Questions: Are all the early MK1 cranks the same (2000). Are all the flywheels the same thickness? The only thing I did different was fit a land rover slave rather than the generic. slave fitted gearbox side of bracket (not as Haynes) centre hole, but even so shouldn't break anything. This was first push of the pedal. No resistance at all in the in the lever fork arm now, just flops about can move it backwards and forwards in both directions as far as it will go. Ideas?
  11. nang

    New Overdrive.

    I'm sick of trying to get my o/d fixed over here. I know it won't be cheap but is there anywhere that I can get a good or recon J type overdrive from UK. Everyone seems to want an exchange unit, Fair enough, I can see why, but the cost of sending my old one over would make the whole exercise impossible. Triumph 2500. Thanks. Tony.
  12. I want to move my radiator cap to the casting on the front of the head. Why? Its the highest point and seems a sensible place for it and would negate the fitting of a header tank.  But why?  Well I want to move the radiator forward to give more clearance in the front of the engine for electric fans and stuff. I am sure I have seen a photo of this mod somewhere in the past but can’t find it now, perhaps the 1970’s rally cars? Does any one have any experience/knowledge of this mod?
  13. hi all and happy new year. just to let you all know, i will be at stoneleigh this year, so if anyone requires anything, give me a shout, and i can bring it along to save you the postage, plus if anyone has placed orders, check to see if they will be with me in time and i can bring them along also. in stock panels are : mk1 & 2 full outer pressed sills centre pressed sills inner sills mk1 & 2 rear arches pressed front floor pans front outriggers mk2 front half pressed wings flitch panels n/s rear spring hangers rear jacking points mk2 rear full pressed valance mk2 rear wings full NOS mk2 front arches n/s front wing fixing brackets reconditioned full anti roll bar kits ( exchange units required ) reconditioned full power steering kits ( exchange units required ) reconditioned track control arms (  exchange units required ) reconditioned mk1 & estate rear diff mounting cradle (   exchange units required ) if there is something you require and cannot see on the list, just drop me an email, tell me your requirements, and i will see if i can help. PLEASE EMAIL ME ON lloyd.reed02@gmail.com AS I AM NOT ON HERE THAT OFTEN TO PICK UP MESSAGES all the best lloyd ADMIN, IF I HAVE POSTED THIS IN THE WRONG SECTION, PLEASE INFORM ME AS I WAS NOT SURE IF IT SHOULD BE IN GENERAL DISCUSSION OR FOR SALE ITEMS ??
  14. Ive mislaid my 2000 haynes manual which shows the correct way round for the Rear door window channel ( the channel which the glass sits in with the long and short regulator channels) i need to know if the long channel goes to the front or rear of the door please? Thank you! Ive just fitted perspex so have lost all orientation and no end of test fitting is getting me anywhere. Thank you
  15. The manual steering rack on my 1977 Triumph 2500 TC has quickly developed over the last few weeks a resistance when turning that builds up and then quickly loosens as though it is winding up and suddenly releasing when driving at all speeds. When driving quickly on a gravel road the sudden slack is enough to cause the rear of the car to step out - not particularly pleasant when driving at 80kph! The right hand tie-rod end was worn so I replaced both and set the toe-in to the specifications in the workshop manual using two tape measures from the brake discs. I then tried turning the steering from lock to lock whilst the cars front end was suspended off the ground and the same alternating resistance is occurring so it can't be an alignment problem. Although the toe-in was out a long way before I replaced the tie-rod ends. Could this be wear in the steering rack pinion? The rack looks ok when viewed at full lock with the boot slid back and there isn't any visible play in the steering column uni-joints nor the inner ball joints. I could take it in for a front wheel alignment just to check the toe-in but I'm reluctant to do so at this stage as the struts and bushes are due for replacement and the front tyres (on S rims) are wearing on the inside edges and causing steering shudder. I suspect the tendency for the car to initially under steer on a gravel corner coming through the apex and then switching to an uncontrollable 180° oversteer is due to the suspension and the half shafts (or a little driver error 😉 ) but I never had this problem with the steering rack beforehand. The car does regularly travel over potholed and corrugated gravel roads so I'm sure this has something to do with the decline in suspension performance!
  16. Jonny-Jimbo

    Crank job

    Hi all, How easy / difficult is it to get the crank out of a Mk1 2.5? I have the gearbox out to try and trace a fault in the gear change / clutch assembly. I was led to believe it could have been the tapered pin, but that is actually fine, and looks brand new. The gear change itself felt fine, so I decided to investigate the clutch, and taking that off showed no problems with the friction plate or the cover, in fact both looked pretty new. But then, to my horror, I saw this... Yes, TWO of the flywheel bolts were totally loose!! Only thing that stopped them falling out entirely was the clutch plate!! I think that is my problem! In my head, the clutch wouldn't fully disengage as these two bolts were butted right up to it, so the pressure plate couldn't slide enough, and would also explain the 'notch' on the pedal. The easy bit was the free movement, and then once the pressure plate was jammed on the bolts, the harder movement was all hydraulic movement of the seals pushing etc. However, after taking the flywheel off, I found this; So the back of the crank is covered in rust and 'extra' material - not sure if this has come from the flywheel vibrating on it as the back of the flywheel has similar damage too. So, how hard is it to drop the crank out of a 2.5 without having to pull the whole engine out? I'm getting very concerned about having this job done in time before RBRR now. I'm now on ebay every day looking for cars I can buy that are running and MOT'd and just 'doing it' and if we break down, then so be it... I am NOT missing RBRR '16!!!
  17. Radders

    Engine number

    Can you tell the CC of an engine from the number alone? The engine Number is MM20620HE.
  18. My pi steering wheel has now got to the point where I don't want to use it anymore
  19. Davemate

    Horn

    My horn relay clicks when I push the button but the horn don't work
  20. I appear to have a loose wire from the ignition key switch, I can't find a white with blue stripe on the wiring diagram 2000 mk1 Any ideas
  21. Hi all, As part of my car prep for RBRR I was checking over a few things yesterday and noticed the oil level had risen considerably - almost to the 'split' in the dipstick, where it's spring to help retain it in the tube. I gave it a sniff and it stinks of petrol. I don't want to risk even turning the engine over at the moment as that amount of petrol will have washed the oil out of the bearings I think. Given this is the case and I have had never ending issues with mechanical pumps (either not fitting, not working or just plain crap from new), I'm going to fit an electric fuel pump. I know the type I am going to use, the HUCO one and a Malpassi Filter King with built in regulator etc. However, I'm just wondering where to mount it in a 2000 Mk1 engine bay? I think Tim Bancroft has one in his Mk1, anyone have any photos of it, or their own car for that matter?
  22. I'm looking to fit an electric fan on my Mk1 Pi. It needs to go nose cone side rather than crank pulley side. I will also be looking to remove the manual fan altogether, so the electric fan will be a replacement rather than an additional one. Has anybody done this? Any recommendations of particular makes?
  23. hi all i am thinking of buying a 55amp Kubota alternator , do they just fit with the one mounting point at the bottom and line up correctly with the crankshaft pulley on a mk2 2500,
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