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  1. Morning folks (its morning somewhere 🙂 ) Many of you followed my old thread on other version of this website, so I won't re-post everything here. You can find it all in my Triumph Experience Journal. https://www.triumphexp.com/journal/Hazen-Wardle.2393/ But a quick recap. I bought my GT6 back in '95 from a guy who claimed it was 'paint ready'. It was primed and ready to go, and I didn't have a clue. Needless to say I discovered it was far from paint ready. The interior had been painted, right over unprepped factory rust and paint. The exterior wasn't any better. I drove it for two years hoping I could make it a rolling restoration, but alas that was not in the cards. The floors were terribly rusted through, as were the inner rocker and strengthener. The outer sills, all four wings, boot floor, rear valance, bonnet had serious issues at the nose. It was all the usual and then some. So I parked it and pulled it apart and didn't work on it until 2009. It wasn't going to fix itself, and no one was going to do it for me unless I paid them--but I was broke (still am), I started learning and doing. Welding, metal work (tin bashing even), body work, mechanicals. The only thing I have farmed out so far was blasting and powdercoating the chassis/frame. Fast forward to now, I'm ready (nearly) for paint. Buying it this week. Just need to get the rear trim strips stuck in place first. Before: And now. I've got the inside bits painted. Just need to shoot the exterior. I've got to get the rear finishers attached, but I'm not happen with the aftermarket ones I bought. So anyway, this is I currently am. It's been a long road. In the time its taken me to get this far, I've seen other people start and complete cars in worse condition than mine. I've had to learn everything and acquire tools. Time and money have been a big factor as well. I just sneak in a few minutes here and there when I can.
  2. The IV/1500 Spitfire hardtop has two pairs of self tapping screws that attach the quarterlight hinges to the hardtop, each one screws into a square shaped captive thingy that presses into the hardtop. I need two of these, does anyone know where I can get some? Wouldn't have a bloody clue where to look...
  3. Used, but still reasonable US style GT6 driver's side bucket seat. It's been very comfortable and supportive in our GT6 mk3. No longer needed as we finally have had the original properly restored. Pictures here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Al3tNFiRXxZTgYXRPfG9bwTpVVCwcwM?e=yBXzlx Small tear in the headrest. Recliner lever not included. Make me a fair offer Collect or courier
  4. Ok, you are going to roll your eyes at me but I’m new to owning a GT6 Mark II and trying to understand the overdrive. Do I use it like a 5th gear? I keep forgetting to disengage. What Damage am I causing if do the following: 1. Forget to disengage when I come to a halt and then switch it off before pulling away in 1st gear? 2. Forget to disengage as I drop down through the gears? 3. Pull away in 1st with overdrive still engaged? 4. Use reverse gear while Having overdrive engaged? Thanks!  
  5. That's what it looks like, anyway. My GT6 has been at the paint shop for the last four months, and finally some of the panels have been painted. When I stripped off all the paint, I found previously repaired dents in every panel. The poor car had had a hard life, apparently, and many dents had been repaired by drilling holes for a dent puller, roughly pulling the dents out and then smoothing the landscape with filler. Both doors looked like they'd been shot, and the nose cone was a piece of sculpture! Since September Joe the painter has worked on each panel in turn, pulling out the remaining dents with an electric welding puller, and welding up all the 'bullet' holes. He's also cut and wire-rolled some bonnet vents - apologies to the purists, but I want to be able to drive this car in the tropics. My brother had a few hours to kill in Mackay this week, and so went to the shop to see (a) what a GT6 looks like and (b) what mine looks like. The photos are from his phone, but even so I'm impressed. The colour is Mallard, which looks green here but is actually a bluey-green. I'm delighted with the apparent finish off the gun. It's 2-pack and is so shiny that it looks as though the car's been dipped in liquid glass. Joe hasn't done much to the body tub yet. It needs two new floorpans welded in, a RHD dashboard frame fitted and new pedal mount and battery box panels welded into the bulkhead. I'll have to fly up sometime and make sure he gets it right - he's brilliant but hasn't ever worked on a Triumph before! It's a big change from the sun-scorched, dented and rusty wreck I bought two years ago.
  6. I have some A3 GT6 Mk1 wiring diagrams if anyone wants one (Free to collect from Cheltenham, or posted if you cover cost). Useful on garage wall or folded in the back of the Workshop Manual I find. Lemme know! 
  7. Hello. Wondered if anyone could help with a problem I have with my MKIII GT6 please?  Essentially, it runs fine when started from cold but then cuts out when it gets warm. If I leave it for 30mins it will restart fine but then cut out again after a while. I initially changed the fuel pump, the coil, and reverted back to points from an electric ignition but the problem still remained. I then noticed that the fuel filter generally empties before the car cuts out. If I detach the fuel pipe between the fuel filter and carbs immediately after the car cuts out, there appears to be some back pressure in the fuel pipe. If I turn over the car with the fuel pipe detached after the fuel filter, the fuel is delivered fine. I suspected a problem with the float valve in the carbs and replaced both on the Strombergs but that didn’t help (one was sticking so I thought I’d nailed it but alas this was not the case). I now suspect a fuel lock it generated - possibly due to some potential heat escaping from the exhaust manifold gasket but I’m clutching at straws now. Before I start taking the exhaust manifold off, does anyone have any ideas or suggestions for me please? Thanks. 
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  10. Hi all, I've recently had to buy a second hand outer steering column for my GT6 mk3 and finally after refurbishing it, fitting new poly bushes, new UJ etc got it back onto the car at the weekend. Came to attach the steering wheel and the final bolt and low and behold the thread at the start is completely mashed and so can't get the nut started that retains the steering wheel. I'm now at a loss as I really don't want to take everything apart to fit a new inner steering column. I have thought about using a die or one of those thread files but have no idea what size, gauge I need. Does anyone have any idea either what size of die I need, or secondly what experience has anyone had of these thread files and do they work? I have pictures of the thread and also some measurements of the steering column thread for completeness.
  11. Rick60

    GT6 Tailgate holes

    Hi Guys, I don't get here that often, mainly because my GT6 doesn't give me any real trouble! However! I'm in the process of doing some repairs to my tailgate and have a query I'm hoping someone can help me with. After stripping the tailgate and repairing the corners and the inner window flanges, I've noticed two almost perfectly circular holes in the sides of the gate which I'm wondering if they should to be there. Here's the tailgate: And this is one of the holes (there's one in exactly the same place on the other side): Can anyone tell me if they are supposed to be there and if so, what they are ther for? Many thanks. Richard.
  12. I have got to the point of reuniting the bonnet with the rest of the GT6 Mk3. It came off easily although I noted the fit was snug. Having positioned it and tried closing, it looks like the bonnet needs to travel 4mm further forwards than the hinge slot allows on the near side. The previous owner had fitted new hinge mounts, to which the bonnet was fitted. In amongst a box of bits I came across an old hinge bracket that had the slot elongated to the front by about 5 /16" then extending vertically down by about 3/16" . The repairs to the bonnet was around the base of the wheel arches, the only major surgery was the letting in of steel to replace a fibreglass bulge! The hinges and stiffener were removed for painting, I can not believe spray painting would add 4mms of difference. So with no material differences why  am I 4mm out?  I am reluctant to modify the hinge mount if there is a simple adjustment that I have not spotted. There is little detail about bonnet adjustment for the mk3 in my manual. If anyone has suggestions I should be most grateful. Thank you, Colin.
  13. Hi all, I thought I would do one of those quick and easy jobs of replacing a faulty speedo cable  on my Mk3 GT6, only to find it isn't easy. Does anyone have any hints or tips they can share on getting easy access to the gearbox side of the cable as it looks like to me I have to remove the exhust. Doh!.
  14. Guppy916

    Timing help

    Hi Guys, I am trying to sort out my timing I am running a fast road cam, and would like some help how many degrees BTDC with the engine running at 850/950 rpm should I be looking for, this is on my MK3 GT6 with a 2.5 lump thanks.
  15. What is happening here?  GT6 mk1, swing spring conversion by PO. Is there a problem with how the spring is mounted on the diff, or the diff to the chassis, or is the body perhaps not mounted correctly on the chassis?  I'll try to see what it looks like from below and take some photos B  
  16. After all the great help and advice I received from everybody on my last thread I thought I would ask for thoughts on my next job. I've got some small patches of rust on the chassis, ( I've attached some images ), I really don't want to sand them down and repaint them as I'd like to keep the car as original as possible. Would it be acceptable to clean all the areas with de-reaser and apply some kind of sealant? If so what sealant could I use?, my reasoning behind this is that the car was my late dads and I really don't want to change it too much, but in the same breath I don't want the corrosion to get any worse, I hope this makes sense, any suggestions very welcome.   Many thanks 
  17. I need to replace the 175/70 13 tyres that are currently fitted to my GT6, anyone have any thoughts about a good choice of tyre? I have Uniroyal RainExperts fitted to my TR6 and Michelin Pilots on my Saloon. I am thinking about Uniroyal RainExpert 3s....
  18. Hello I have a 1968 GT6 mk1 and it is currently being restored, slowly. Whilst working through the parts that I took off the basket case, almost 20 years ago, I came across a back for back door hinge cover - in bits! It appears to be very brittle, and has broken into bits does anyone know if anyone is making new ones, or has made one themselves?? Or better still, has anyone got one for sale. Part number 810699. Any advice or help much appreciated. Jason
  19. I was clearing out my shed today and came across this steering wheel. I vaguely remember buying it many years ago for my Herald but never got round to fitting it. It's just over 15 inches in diameter. Is it an original GT6 Mk 1 wheel?  [url=https://postimg.cc/p9CWj4PB][img]https://i.postimg.cc/p9CWj4PB/20200913-143902-Easy-Resize-com.jpg[/img][/url]
  20. I've just had one of my 2.5 blocks decked to remove the recess. After test fitting the pistons they pop-up out of the block by 25 thou. I understand the Payen head gasket usually has a compressed thickness of 34 thou.   Given my current measurements I'd have a squish of only 9 thou, which would most likely be asking for trouble. I have seen a few people recommend 5-8 thou pop-up for the pistons, which would give 29 -26 thou squish.   My question is: Is there a recommended squish for these engines? Unless anyone has any other recommendations I'm planning on machining the pistons to give a 5 thou pop-up.   Thanks, Anthony.  
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