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Comments

  1. Hi all,simple question what is the best product for for the removal of rust  from within the fuel tank? I do have some slow burn fuse and quick match as I’m a pyromaniac! But I do wish to preserve the tank!so I won’t use that.
  2. Hi, hope someone is able to help me with an issue I’ve been experiencing in my recently acquired Herald 948. On the drive back from a recent long journey, after the car was sat in the heat most of the day, it struggled to start. After taking a few turns to start, it was idling very rough and would cut out after pressing the throttle which I usually play with to warm the engine up. Eventually it started idling somewhat fine and I was good to go. On the journey back, I realised the car was struggling for power and ended up having to use the choke to make up for the sudden loss of power for some of the journey to prevent holding up traffic. Sidenote - I also noticed when stopping to fuel on the way back that the water in the radiator was boiling over after opening the cap (very carefully) and seeing the state of the water. Anyway, since the journey back, the car still struggles to start and I have the same issue where the car idles very rough when started after being sat and stalls frequently after revving the throttle. Eventually after stalling enough times the problem seems to disappear and the car drives fine. I’m planning to drain the radiator coolant this weekend and fill with suitable antifreeze to prevent boiling issue, but something tells me this will not solve the problem. Any thoughts, ideas and recommendations would be much appreciated! I’m at a loss as I’m new to Triumph Herald ownership and after some googling don’t seem to see the issue on any other forums. Thanks in advance, Zee
  3. I'm feeling optimistic that I've finally eliminated the nasty knocking noises from my Herald Coupe's rear end. In the end the solution was easy, quick and very cheap and didn't involve removing the drive shaft. Armed with a good pair of circlip pliers and a handful of oversize UJ circlips - both .0615 and .0645 (for a couple of quid from Bill at Rarebits) I put her on axle stands and shimmied underneath to take a look at the offending UJ. Having read Bill's hints and tips, I knew which UJ was causing the knocking. One opposing pair of circlips was slightly lose, I could see that they had moved against the cup - not much but and indication they weren't tight enough, and I'd read in Bill's hints that they need to be tight. I removed the circlip and was able to get a .0615 in straight away. I tried the .0645s to no avail but wondered that if I gently tapped the cup in a bit, they might fit. Sure enough they did. I was left wondering if I'd done the right thing, but I knew that I'd only tapped the cups gently so couldn't really have damaged anything. And besides, it was done now. A quick test revealed the dammed tick tick tick on overrun on left hand corners had gone. I refused to believe it as I've suffered with this for more years than I care to remember, having replaced the whole drivetrain from the gearbox backward (including recon replacement driveshafts from a very reputable Triumph trader) I've had a couple of runs since and the noise really has gone, our run to the Goodwood Revival at the weekend will provide final confirmation but I'm optimistic. My experience concurs that driveshaft UJs need to be tight. The solution is cheap, easy and quick - thanks to Bill at Rarebits. Jez
  4. Dear fellow Triumph enthusiasts...It is time to sell my Herald for reasons discussed below. I thought I would try to sell my car to like minded drivers and members of these wonderful classic cars rather than through ebay or Autotrader. This car is brilliant and it deserves an owner who understands it. First... here is a summary:53 Year old (1968)No rust on bodyworkRuns brilliantlyEverything works mechanically and electricallyDrives fantasticFully refurbished in early noughties with Gold Standard engine. 42,747 miles on engine.Paintwork could do with a sand down and respray. The paint has not been keyed properly and has cracks in places. The rear tub is also a slightly different shade of red! (My fault!) Roof in good working order - small gap in quarter light Replaced Dynamo with Alternator New Ignition Coil, Plugs, Rotor and Points New Fuel Lines Original Steering Wheel available Serviced every year with Classic 20/50 Oil Stromberg Carb serviced, cleaned and tunedMOT exempt (Submitted October 2019)Tax FreeLow Insurance costsMuch paperwork and some old MOT certificates from 1999 More photos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1hEdc4gibDhgzyL7JeJTgKQCR8FYUfk-z?usp=sharing Price: £5500A Brief History:So where do I start... I have owned Harold since 2016 after buying him from the actress Clare Holman. I stumbled across Harold for sale in 2016 on the Triumph Club website. After a few emails I was down in Sussex in a shot to find this brilliant car and I had to have it. Mrs Holman is a wonderful lady who drove the car regularly during her 8 years of ownership. She had purchased Harold from Mr Marsh who had undertook a full strip down restoration in the early noughties. Unfortunatley I do not have any further historical records pre 1999.After tea, I done the deal and I drove home with my 2 year old on board with a smile I could not remove from my face!I purchased this car as I wanted a red convertible that I could look cool in. I have had a classic car before a white MGB, my first whom I had to give up some years earlier for practical reasons and really missed having one. I have enjoyed my 5 years with Harold maintaining him myself and learning all about what makes him tick. It really is a difficult decision to make. So many good times, especially with my two young children, in the back, top down, screaming at the top of their voices, arms up in the air, and who think of it as their "Racing car!" But needs must and I honestly do not have a decent enough reason to sell it except I just haven't had as much time for it as I would like and Harold deserves to be out there being driven! As I am writing this I really do not want to sell, but as a family man I have to think about the future. My kids are older and not as interested as they once were and I have to be honest and say that I am not using it as much as I should be. I have barely made a few hundred miles in the last two years and although I do have a garage and its been kept dry during my tenure as a family we decided we should be going electric, and an electric car is our next project. I'll be losing my garage and I will absolutely not keep my car outside in the drive open to the elements. Its time I hand over the keys to the next custodian.For those that are still reading and have listened to my waffle I have more if you want to read on....??I love old classics. The pure driving experience. You drive these cars, they don't drive you. They dont turn on your headlights or tell you when its getting dark, they dont have auto this and auto that or bing and bong at you at every moment. No power steering, no sat navs, wind up windows, chokes, knobs and classic dials. The smell of proper leather. Everything combines for that unique old school motoring pleasure.During my ownership I have maintained the car throughout with regular servicing each and every year myself. I've got experts involved as and when needed. As well as maintenance, cleaning and upgrading that has given me immense enjoyment I have also kept it tidy trying to keep the car as original as possible, a few alterations were needed but not much. Mechanically the car is a joy taking everything back to simpler times. If you have any questions, please contact me and I'll do my best to answer. All the bestKev
  5. I am having trouble with both door catches!, driver side is intermittent to release and the passenger side wont open at all unless you thump the inside until the latch lets go!or you drive the car and it opens part way!, I have had a play with the drivers side this afternoon and adjusted the bolt from the push button so it now in contact with the lever( made no difference to how the latch operates)so still not working correctly,the pin seems to flip over ok!.when the door is open should the latching pin be at the top or bottom when closing the door?. looking at new B post striker plates I have noticed that new ones have a straight internal vertical edge, mine are hooked out at the top of the catch(is this what is holding up the pin? any tips appreciated
  6. one of my wheel bearings is on the way out and I am wondering if this is a job I can do myself or if I should put it in to someone who knows what they are doing? Is there issues with shimming etc?...........don't want to make an ar$e of it!! David
  7. Bit of a crisis! My poor dear little 1200 conv. has had the bracket that holds the 'tie rod(?) to the outrigger, come adrift. My pro. pal 'tack welded' it as a temporary, get-you-home repair. I've looked at replacement outriggers & plan on getting one, asap, from Chic Doig (who seems to have a good reputation for his panels.etc.) Question is.......can the old one be removed & the new one replace it, with the body on? Any help, advice, experiences (good & bad), most welcome as I have amother pal who just happens to be a pro. welder, who has kindly promised to tackle it for me - (I shall give whatever help I can!) Thanks, in advance... 
  8. Hi, does anyone have any recommendations for modern oil or are they not a negative application?
  9. Today, in the lovely weather, I painted the front footwells of Little Sis - (tomorrow, hopefully, the rear ones!) I also took some photos of the front, nearside brake assembly & wonder whether you, very kind, experts, can tell me whether she has Type 12 or 14 front brakes............I'm pretty certain they're 14, but can't remember....I didn't take any measurements, I'm afraid.  
  10. I have a replacement hood (fortunately already attached to a replacement hoodframe...) to fit. My rear deck is doing a passable impersonation of a sieve & someone in the village (a pro-welder who is into VW's to such an extent that one of the VeeDub mags. are visiting him this week to do a write-up!) has taken pity on me & the car & has offered to do something with it & only suggested that I buy him a few beers - I will of course put him on my list of deserving people to be paid summat but, meanwhile, I am right in saying that that particular panel is unobtainable am I not?? Any help, advice, suggestions etc. gratefully received...(The car is my daily runabout so cannot be in dry dock for long......plus am seriously skint at this moment in time!..😳)
  11. Hi just acquired 1968 Herald 1360 convertible which has been in a front garden since 1995 rotting away it would not look out of place in the flint stones! Acomplete restoration is required so we thought we would remove the body from the chassis so as to access the chassis then start rebuilding.Is there any instruction procedure to follow so we don’t struggle too much. Just to make the project interesting I have just been registered severely sight impaired so not too much small print many thanks Adrian 
  12. admin

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  13. Hello chaps,   Please excuse my ignorance because when it comes to cars I know absolutely nothing, I am posting this because my granddad has a Triumph Herald 1200 and always comes to me when he needs to buy parts online and I am having a hard time figuring out what half of them are even called, let alone find them on ebay for a price my granddad approves.  I took a picture and I would really appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction.  What is this thing: My granddad says it's a cap for the coolant system and the problem is that it's leaking so he needs a new one. Thank you guys!
  14. Hi all, Come across this beautifully restored 1965 Triumph Herald 1200 for sale in New Zealand. No connection to the owner or seller, simply admired the quality presentation.  https://bains.co.nz/product/1965-triumph-herald/ Curious, I have a 1968 Vitesse where the front grill is attached to the bonnet itself, this example shows brackets connecting the grill to the radiator assembly. Which is correct? Enjoy Jason        
  15. Hi. My 13/60 has been difficult to start which is largely solved now by draining and flushing the tank and fuel lines, replacing fuel filter and cleaning the carb out. Now the issue is that the engine dies when running along, on a warm engine, briefly overcome by a quick blip of the choke, but then dies anyway. Have set the Stromberg carb best I can for tickover speed etc - would a new or refurb carb help? The fuel pump provides flow but not sure at what pressure. Has anyone else had similar problems?  
  16. Hi All,i am working on a refurb of a rear tub,there are no anti burst catches.I would like advice on them ie are they really worth fitting,do some members not have them etc etc .Regards Neil      
  17. After several years of nursing the original 1959 Herald mechanical fuel pump to keep it operating, I have decided to replace it with an electrical pump. So much choice and easy to get one that is not entirely suitable for my requirements. I would like some advice from anyone who has fitted a suitable, hassle-free pump. Ideally, the pump should be a bolt-on unit that also blanks off the hole where the old pump was fitted but I doubt if one exists.  So, what is recommended? All replies gratefully received.
  18. Hi all,Before I have the joys of replacing the rear and front tubs back onto the chassis do I take advantage of this moment when the chassis is clear and replace the fuel and brake pipes that run front to rear or should I wait till those lumps are in place! Just bare in mind when you answer that I am severely sight impaired so are looking for the most practical solution many thanks.
  19. Hi all, i am rebuilding my doors after painting and am stuck with the tie rod that goes in between the front and rear window channels. When taking the doors apart I found the rods sat in the bottom of the doors so have no reference to refit them from. Looking at the canleys parts diagrams I can see which way around the rod goes and I am assuming the end that is bent back on itself and goes around the rear channel but dont know how far up the channel it sits. The front end on the rod has a ring which a bolt goes through but which one? Finally canleys show a trim clip next to the middle of the bar to tension it, but where does the clip fit? sorry for all the questions, if anyone has a photo it would be fantastic!
  20. Hi I have been looking at a '68 13/60 with a view to buying and noted two pairs of holes on each side of the 'vertical' part of the boot lid. As the boot lid has to be propped up with a length of wood, I am guessing it may be part of that mechanism that is missing? Looking at pictures of similar Heralds, there appears to be four bolts in those holes. Could anyone confirm please?
  21. Hi all, I am currently halfway through my herald restoration and could do with a few opinions. I am at the point where I am lining up the body which is fine, but I am stumped as to what to do with the part of the treadplate where the tub overlaps the bulkhead. Do people fill this or weld or or something else? Any help/photos would be great thank you!
  22. Simoneg

    Cylinder heads

    Turning out the dark recesses of my garage I've found four cylinder heads which will shortly be up for sale or scrap.  I'm pretty sure that 3 of them came from Herald 1360 or 1300 Spitfire engines but one of them probably came from a 1500 Dolomite.  Apart from casting labels/numbers on top I can't see any differences between them.  Two are labelled Stanpart 307871, one is also labelled 307871 but with the (manufacturer's?) symbol 'N' and K40, and the other has several marks CBS RK00589, 18DO and a stamping TKC1155 SS27/73.  Can anyone identify these?  Do 1500 cylinder heads differ from those fitted to 1300 engines?  The manifolds seem to be interchangeable.  If anyone needs one of these cylinder heads then please let me know!  Simon      
  23. foshi

    head gasket

    need to replace the head gasket on my 1600 vitesse ,workshop manual states apply a suitable sealant  to top of block before fitting gasket thoughts please paul.
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