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  1. Sheepy


    are new ones still made? if so where is the best place to get one (mk1 gt6) my friend just bought a rally gt6 and when the sun shines you cant see through the screen as its heavily scratched cheers shaun
  2. Morning folks (its morning somewhere 🙂 ) Many of you followed my old thread on other version of this website, so I won't re-post everything here. You can find it all in my Triumph Experience Journal. https://www.triumphexp.com/journal/Hazen-Wardle.2393/ But a quick recap. I bought my GT6 back in '95 from a guy who claimed it was 'paint ready'. It was primed and ready to go, and I didn't have a clue. Needless to say I discovered it was far from paint ready. The interior had been painted, right over unprepped factory rust and paint. The exterior wasn't any better. I drove it for two years hoping I could make it a rolling restoration, but alas that was not in the cards. The floors were terribly rusted through, as were the inner rocker and strengthener. The outer sills, all four wings, boot floor, rear valance, bonnet had serious issues at the nose. It was all the usual and then some. So I parked it and pulled it apart and didn't work on it until 2009. It wasn't going to fix itself, and no one was going to do it for me unless I paid them--but I was broke (still am), I started learning and doing. Welding, metal work (tin bashing even), body work, mechanicals. The only thing I have farmed out so far was blasting and powdercoating the chassis/frame. Fast forward to now, I'm ready (nearly) for paint. Buying it this week. Just need to get the rear trim strips stuck in place first. Before: And now. I've got the inside bits painted. Just need to shoot the exterior. I've got to get the rear finishers attached, but I'm not happen with the aftermarket ones I bought. So anyway, this is I currently am. It's been a long road. In the time its taken me to get this far, I've seen other people start and complete cars in worse condition than mine. I've had to learn everything and acquire tools. Time and money have been a big factor as well. I just sneak in a few minutes here and there when I can.
  3. The IV/1500 Spitfire hardtop has two pairs of self tapping screws that attach the quarterlight hinges to the hardtop, each one screws into a square shaped captive thingy that presses into the hardtop. I need two of these, does anyone know where I can get some? Wouldn't have a bloody clue where to look...
  4. Mot Fail If You Have Converted To Led  Just seen this link on the Ducati Forum  https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/special-notice-01-21-headlamp-conversions/mot-special-notice-01-21-headlamp-conversions
  5. That's what it looks like, anyway. My GT6 has been at the paint shop for the last four months, and finally some of the panels have been painted. When I stripped off all the paint, I found previously repaired dents in every panel. The poor car had had a hard life, apparently, and many dents had been repaired by drilling holes for a dent puller, roughly pulling the dents out and then smoothing the landscape with filler. Both doors looked like they'd been shot, and the nose cone was a piece of sculpture! Since September Joe the painter has worked on each panel in turn, pulling out the remaining dents with an electric welding puller, and welding up all the 'bullet' holes. He's also cut and wire-rolled some bonnet vents - apologies to the purists, but I want to be able to drive this car in the tropics. My brother had a few hours to kill in Mackay this week, and so went to the shop to see (a) what a GT6 looks like and (b) what mine looks like. The photos are from his phone, but even so I'm impressed. The colour is Mallard, which looks green here but is actually a bluey-green. I'm delighted with the apparent finish off the gun. It's 2-pack and is so shiny that it looks as though the car's been dipped in liquid glass. Joe hasn't done much to the body tub yet. It needs two new floorpans welded in, a RHD dashboard frame fitted and new pedal mount and battery box panels welded into the bulkhead. I'll have to fly up sometime and make sure he gets it right - he's brilliant but hasn't ever worked on a Triumph before! It's a big change from the sun-scorched, dented and rusty wreck I bought two years ago.
  6. Hi All, So I'm looking to update shocks (all round) and front springs. Currently running standard shocks and was considering what to replace with. Who runs what? and has anybody run switched between and can advise of differences? (beyond prices). Also I've never adjusted shocks before any tips on how to get "right"? Ta in advance James
  7. admin


  8. Hello all, A few months ago I bought a windscreen seal for the Spitz and last weekend I successfully fitted the laminated screen. Hooray! But I don't have the chrome finisher (it's in two halves I think for the MkIV/1500) and so far haven't seen any for sale. How much of an issue is it? Does it affect the security of the screen/seal, or is it purely cosmetic? Can I use one labelled as MkI-III or does it have to be the MkIV/1500 one? Or are there any generic ones that are suitable? VMTIA
  9. Some of you may remember the Black MkIV Spitfire that I worked on last year in the Magazine . I replaced the rear brakes and repaired a few bits and pieces whilst the owner my friend Matt Knight was away with the RAF for 6 months . This car has never run very well . He has had it for three years now . It rattles and shakes and drains its battery overnight for no apparent reason. It constantly goes out of tune and guzzles Petrol at the rate of less than 20 to the Gallon . Matt is on a budget and he loves the old thing . When I first saw it I pointed out that the single SU carb was just wrong and the engine was from a 1300 Dolomite. The wiring was best described as ‘Scenic ‘ . If you were starting out with a Triumph this car should have had a sign in it saying buy another one! The paint is reacting, the suspension was low at the rear (leaf spring completed knackered) and the bonnet is rotten underneath . It has had new sills and the floor looks good . It’s a Mk 4 and the least popular model . It was about 1 owner away from the breakers yard or a full restoration. As with all our cars it will be a money pit until it’s been gone through from back to front . (And then it will take a regular gulp of cash for ever after). Matt has the ‘Bug’ for sure . On his return home I showed him the knackered spring ,which was rusted out with broken shackles and he replaced it. This gives the car a bit of rake at the moment but it has improved the handling and ride no end . I’ve told him to put a bag of sand or two in the boot for a couple of months but he just looks at me as if I’m mad ! Anyway he is now desperate to use his car and despite my advice to give it to a professional tuner to diagnose its issues once and for all he bought himself a compression tester just to check . He found consistent readings of 70 PSI ! Obviously if correct this indicates that the engine is passed its sell by date. To be continued....
  10. Friend of mine sold his Spitfire SBW471T a few years ago. But the seller turned out to be a dealer and sold it on..    Something that he didnt like as he spend lots of money on her in the years he drive her. But since then the car is never been seen..  But its still on the road ! So if you own or know where it is.. let me know.  
  11. Hi all, I had the pleasure of a unplanned 3 wheel stop a while back and whilst I know a lot more about the whole set up now and I regularly oil the trunnions I can't say I have complete faith in them not to fail at some point.  I was looking at the canley classic trunnionless kits as a upgrade but I can't really find much in the way of reviews online. Has anyone got experience with these kits? Are they worth it? Cheers!
  12. Morning all,   I've got myself a donor herald which has a MK3 spitfire engine with a 1500 single rail gearbox and J type overdrive already fitted. The herald is a wreck so I want to remove the engine and gearbox to put them in my MK3 spitfire. Obviously the propshaft will not be the right size in the herald at the moment.   I've found online the various lengths of propshaft for different Mks of spitfire but I haven't found any dimensions so you can mix and match. Can anyone confirm what size propshaft I'd need? I assume the difference of length is down to the single rail box being a bit bigger than the 3 rail so using a 1500 overdrive propshaft should work but I don't know if anything else factors into this.   Cheers for your help!
  13. I’m looking for a project Spitfire, ideally a Mk4/1500 but would consider an earlier model too. Must be a complete car, ideally not already disassembled. I’m located in Chichester but would travel or even buy off photos for the right car. Let me know here or at neilahowarth@hotmail.com if you have something you want to sell that might fit the bill. Thanks! Neil
  14. Bought my Spitfire in November, it would only run on full choke. Took rocker cover off to find broken No 2 rocker and bent No 7 push rod. Replaced these and fitted new cylinder head gasket. Started fine but with steam from the exhaust. After leaving for two days would not start easily. Took rocker cover off again to find No 2 and No 3 push rods bent, and No 7 rocker push rods jumped out of location. Except for steam which I suspect is the head itself. Any ideas why rods should bend.
  15. I've finally got the Spitfire started again, but to get it to start I need to have full choke and also use a touch of Easi-start, this allows it to fire and tick over but it revs terribly high and goes mental. If I take the choke all off the engine immediately dies. More throttle with the choke out just makes the engine rev higher I'm hoping to get it started so that I can then set the timing correctly etc.  Currently the carb's are set to 12 flats out which I read was somewhere near for a good start.   Any help to this high reving would be appriciated
  16. Over Christmas I want to get the Spitfire running, it turns over and was running before I moved the car home about 6 months ago, in that time I've messed with the wiring and just cant remember how it goes!   Coming from the ignition coil I have the wire (shown between the purple dots) connected to the dizzy.  Granter its only twisted for now because I didn't want to spade it until I checked. My question that is stumping me is what is the spare spade shown between the red dots?   Also,   when I got the head done years ago the garage put the studs back in the wrong way (short ones at the back) so the lifting eye wont go on,  I'm going to change these back to how they should be but wanted to check I can do this with a stud extractor tool while the head is on and wanted to check, are there reverse thread or normal?   thanks
  17. I am the current custodian of the ex- Mike Bishop/Jon Ranwell/Chris Sherrington fastback Spitfire hardtop that ship’s engineer Phil very kindly delivered to me in Essex, from Scotland some time back.  I’m now just starting to look at restoring it. It’s an Ashley GRP moulding as shown in the picture below (not my car though) and is complete with all it’s parts, including a scrap of lurid green shagpile headlining. What is missing though is the nearside teardrop shaped glass window (see picture of the offside one which I have).  Does anybody have a nearside glass window available?  A long shot, I know, but I thought I’d ask. I have been in contact with MotoBuild who now own Ashley  currently produce hardtops for MG Midgets and Spitfires but with no luck. They can make me a Perspex one but I’d like to try and find a glass one if at all possible. Apologies for posting on multiple forums but I want to get as large a coverage as possible. Thanks.  
  18. Hello all    I’m going to get some Weber’s for my 1500 engine. The head is standard and in time that will change. And the cam is standard and in time I will change the cam to a fast road cam. Now I want some Weber’s for the car but not sure weather to get twin40’s or one 45 or one 40?   What’s the best choice for most power.  now this isn’t a track car but I want to make it quick so please don’t bombard me with keep the su carbs or change it for a 1300 or anything like that I want a fast road classic with classic parts. I would just like to know what’s best twin 40 or one 45. Now obviously it mite be different depending on valve sizes so what do people think is best.  I read something that a bloke had a 1500 spitfire 120bhp that he used everyday for his daily  I’m not going to use it everyday but bhp120 is something I’m looking for with out changing the engine   What are peoples thoughts. many thanks   
  19. Hello all, I need some advice. Is there any benefit from blanking of the fuel pump hole and installing a electric fuel pump ie will this make it more efficient or get any more bhp. Or keep the standard fuel pump and hook up a electric fuel pump as well. What are people’s thoughts. many thanks  
  20. Hello I have a 1968 GT6 mk1 and it is currently being restored, slowly. Whilst working through the parts that I took off the basket case, almost 20 years ago, I came across a back for back door hinge cover - in bits! It appears to be very brittle, and has broken into bits does anyone know if anyone is making new ones, or has made one themselves?? Or better still, has anyone got one for sale. Part number 810699. Any advice or help much appreciated. Jason
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