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  1. Greetings all. Have an "issue" with a '65 Spitfire's wiring I could use some help with. Namely, now do I tell if a system has been converted from one to the other? Car should be a Positive Earth car (if my info is correct), but the battery has been disconnected for years and the cables don't fit their respective battery posts/terminals as one would presume. The clamp on the Negative side (black cable to starter solenoid) is quite a bit larger than the battery post and will not clamp down at all. The Positive cable's (short Red one to Earth) clamp is way too small to even fit over the larger positive battery post. So evidently, this car has been run previously with the battery hooked up "backwards" with seemingly no ill effects that I can see. The car ran before it was put in a body shop 7 years ago (yeah, I know, another story in itself), and the owner just doesn't remember those things that far back. And even though the body shop could have tried hooking up the battery and got it wrong, it doesn't appear that anyone's done this recently. So my questions are, again: 1. How can I tell if it's still meant to run as a Positive Earth? 2. How can I test it without damaging anything. And... 3. Is there really anything that can be damaged (generator/dynamo, instruments, etc.) if I hook it up to Negative Earth and give it a shot? Thanks for any help. I did a search and came up with zip. Perused the first 41 pages here (not boring, but not quick!) and didn't find any discussions of Positive Earth cars. Sorry for the long-winded post. I get that way when I'm having fun. Which is most of the time! Thanks again. Paul
  2. I have quite a few UNF ‘nylon insert’ nuts (5/8, 3/4,  7/8) spare. Also have 5/16 light and heavy washers, and 6g x 1/2” self-tapers which are used with spire-clips for sidelights etc. Why? Once upon a time I started a tiny business selling packs of fixings for restorations etc, and thence upon a time i stopped :)  I’d rather they help toward someone’s maintenance or restoration than selling as a job-lot on eBay, so if anyone needs a handful, please let me know. Happy to send them if you pay postage, otherwise you’re welcome to collect from Cheltenham. 
  3. For years I've been having problems with the parking switch on my wiper motor. Normally lasted 6 months..    Now I had bought another one and fitted it during our lockdown. It already failed after 2 weeks (and only put my wipers on once to clean my windscreen)  Opened it up, cleaned it all up inside (burned contacts) & it was working again... until the first rain shower last week.. So...  I've now put in a microswitch. But its very very tight ! Last 2 days been testing it and works great. I do need to make another one, as i need to remake it a bit to be even better.   Original vs. prototype no.1  !
  4. Hello I have stripped my 1500 spit bonnet to bare metal on top (left underside to prime over). Some previous filling had been done as some lazy toad could not be bothered taking small dents out with dolly. Anyhooo, done some metal work on the arches and now preping ready to paint. The top of the bonnet (after being stripped with nitromors) seems to have a dull matt finish to bare metal. Did triumph galvanise or dip bare steel bonnets in some form or metal protection? I have applied some 40% phosphoric acid solution to one wing and a few hours later removed the dry residue with wire wool. Looks ok but seems to remove the dull matt finish mentioned above. I plan to hit the entire top surface of bonnet with phos acid to etch for primer. Can you spot any issues here? Cheers
  5. Evening all, I'm thinking about installing a scissor lift (https://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-7532b-3-2t-mid-rise-scissor-lift/) in my garage for maintenance of my vehicles, including the Spitfire MkIV. My concern though is that the lift would damage the sills of the Spitfire. Has anyone got any experience with these with Spitfires? Thanks, Nick
  6. I am trying to remove the core plug which sits on the off-side of the engine behind the water pump. Having drilled a hole in it and pushed a screwdriver into the hole, I thought that I would be able to lever the plug out. But, as you will see below I have opened-up the plug but the rim is stuck tight and has not moved. Looking for some tips. I am concerned about trying to get under the rim of the plug in case I damage the holding face of the block. The other thought I had was to use a die-grinder to thin the rim so that I can easily lift it but, there again, am I going to damage the block? What would be the safest way to proceed?  
  7. My 13/60 was running quite sweetly last year but the middle cyclinders were a bit low on compression and I had concerns about the head gasket. So I had the head off at the end of last year, had it checked out by a local macine shop, all valves were reseated and I put it back together before Chrsitmas. Last weekend I checked the valve clearnces and set the timing but couldnt get it to fire. So today I have relaced plug leads/distributor cap (it is electronic ignition), checked the plug gaps and eventually managed to get it running on full choke. As the engine warms I can push the choke in until the knob is about 10mm proud of the dash at which point the engine is revving quite hard and sounds very rough. Pushing the choke in any further the engine just dies. I have tried turning the distributor to check that the timing is right and also pulled the fuel hose off the carb to check for consistent fuel flow. All looks good. Thing is that the engine needed very little choke at all to start and warm-up before I did the head gasket. Now it will only run (even when warmed-up) on part choke and it sounds very rough. I have checked each plug lead and they are receiving a good, strong spark and so I cant see that there is a problem with the coil. The carb is a CD150 which was fully reurbished last year and performed fine last summer. What is the likey cause of this?    
  8. Hi, quick question, are Herald 13/60 and Spitfire (later Spit4 onwards) radiators interchangeable? The part numbers are different, but (knowing Triumph) that doesn't mean they aren't :-)  Many thanks!
  9. Did a tune-up yesterday and so decided to do a compression test. Results were 135psi / 120psi / 120 psi / 140psi There is some faint white/grey smoke on harsh acceleration but no water in the oil of oil in the water. Given all cylinders are within 20psi, thinking that everything best left alone for now. Does my thinking make sense?
  10. New member - first post I am in the process of re-building a MK2 vitesse.  It has been reasonably straight forward however I have a problem - the rear suspension has a 3/4 inch lowering block with GAZ shocks.  For the front suspension  I would like to lower it by a similar amount and I am trying to locate 1 inch lower springs but I am having no luck.   Rimmers have stopped supplying them. Can anyone suggest an alternative way of lowering the front end or would anyone have some 1 inch shorter springs they would like to sell?  Many thanks Andy.  
  11. hullo, The engine of our Mk2 Spit did not survive the 10CR :( We have it now dismantled to show all the horrors: Cam lobes worn, followers (new before the 10CR) ready for junk, Piston with a chunk missing and one cracked..... Amazing that we still managed to get to Home  The block is relatively un-damaged as seems the crank. The block is now with the engine workshop for measurements and eventually a re-bore ( +40 already) It would seem that the engine is a toledo engine with a DG prefix, HE suffix. Would anybody know if the principal dimensions to give to the workshop are the same as a Spitfire 1300 engine or better even have a scan of the pages from the workshop manual BR Dirk
  12. Currently for sale on eBay.  I have not seen this book before.  Any good?
  13. My Triumph Herald 13/60 is fitted with an Accuspark distributor and a Stromberg CD150 which has been professionally rebuilt. It has been running sweetly for some time but has just started to misfire when warm. When started from cold it runs fire and drives well until the engine gets warm and then it starts to misfire. Stopping the engine and allowing it to stand for 10 minutes results in it ticking over smoothly for a few minutes and then the misfire starts again. I have replaced all 4 plugs but this has made no difference. The coil does not feel hot and I have checked the timing. This does not seem to me to be a problem with a partcular cylinder as removing any one of the 4 spark plug leads when the engine is running has the same impact on the misfire. I have also run the engine with the fuel cap off in case there is an airlock but this has made no difference. Looks to be plenty of nice clean fuel going through the fuel filter. I would be grateful for any advice that you guys could give me.
  14. Hi everyone, could anyone tell me what Carburettor was standard fitment on a 1973 Mk3 GT6 please? its currently on Stromberg CD’s but I think they are the emission control carb, they have the angled mental strip with plastic cover running down the side at a 45 deg angle and no mixture adjustable on the bottom and very little through the dash pot.   its running very lean when hot and wondered if anyone else has had similar problems? Thanks in advance     
  15. I have Smiths analogue ammeter and rev counter from 1960s/70s. I'm not sure how best to wire them in. They are going into a Triumph Herald 13/60, which runs off a dynamo and has had no conversions - any tips? Thanks Rev counter Ammeter (the wires that are in pic are obviously for the night time illumination - it is more a case of how to wire so I don't have to run the full current across the instrument). 
  16. Just back from a trip to Porthmadog and the surrounding area. Took the TR6 to which I had fitted a new washer pump before leaving, it being a Smiths type thing. Anyway, it has failed. So rather than mess around trying to replace with another similar type, does anyone know of a modern equivalent that I could use.  The drive home yesterday was comical, stopping every 30 mins to hand clean the screen..... Snowdonia was gorgeous in the winter sunshine, just wish I could have seen more of it!
  17. Hello all,  Does anyone know where I can 2 front Shock absorbers for my fwd 1971 Truimph 1500cc please.                              Bernie flat cap  
  18. Hola,    Can anyone recommend a knowledgeable garage near Nuneaton, Warwickshire?  I’m close to finishing the restoration of my mk iv Spit, but setting up the engine is proving to be a task beyond my skills! I have good compression, new plugs, leads, dizzy cap and arm etc. And I’ve tried setting it up going from timing first, as usual.  Nevertheless she just refuses to run right, either trying to idle at 3000rpm or having no power - hence garage time!   thanks in advance,    LN
  19. I have a Herald 13/60 but I suspect that my plea for help will make sense to more than just Herald owners. The large connector (F) on my Dynamo is connected to F on my Control Box. The smaller connector (D) is connected to D on my Control Box. D on the Control Box is also connected to my Ignition Warning Light, the other terminal of which is connected to power. With the ignition key in first position the Ignition Warning Light is on, problem is it stays on permanently at whatever revs the engine is at! So, I have tested the Dynamo by removing fan belt, putting a jumper between its two terminals and applying power - it runs like a motor. I then put the fan belt back and ran the engine with a voltmeter connected to the jumper and was getting 20V at idle. So the Dynamo is working well? I am not sure what terminal D on the Control Box actually does but I am wondering whether it just provides a convenient way to 'splice' the wire from D on the Dynamo with the wire from the Ignition Warning Lamp. Or is my problem due to a Control Box fault?
  20. How important do you reckon keeping HT leads separated is? I’m using some little plastic organiser clip things but in some places it’s almost impossible to stop them touching.  Any thoughts? The reason I ask is I have pretty lumpy running at the moment due to a dodgy coil I think (awaiting spare funds to replace) but I’m also checking everything else in the ignition system at the same time.
  21. With the high rate of attrition on 2018 RBRR and a few stories from 10CR - I wondered if it were possible to create a list somewhere of known part failures that could inform drivers on future events of the spares they may consider carrying ... or that could be carried by the self electing Broom Wagon on behalf of everyone. While I concede that if a car is not maintained - just about anything of a certain vintage could give up the ghost .. several stories emerge concerning poor reliability of repro parts - while this may be the only option it's good to know if something you've recently fitted is already proven by some to be a little dodgy. While we can share our anecdotes here ideally it would be good to create a easy view list on a separate page that can be added to as experience informs. My own story from 10CR 2019 was a failed mechanical fuel pump on a MKIV/1500 Spitfire ( straight actuating arm type without spacer ) - this was relatively easily fixed by the loan of a facet electrical fuel pump and the necessary unions, hoses and wires etc to jerry rig a stand in that saw me through another 1500 miles. Even having stripped it, cleaned it refitted it in working condition it has since failed again! ... I've bought an identical replacement, !!! er... , from ANG but on events I'll be carrying a spare or an electrical facet pump ( low psi ) - I'll let you know if it fails.
  22. Dear all, I have a Spitfire mk3 with the original Delco, upgraded with electronic ignition (Pertronix Ignitor module). I decided to get a new unit, hoping to get a better advance curve overall (I guess the original is fairly worn), and sort a 180 out configuration that the previous owner had solved by altering the cables… It is important to note that, before I begun the surgery, the car started and idled at 800 rpm with no problem. I followed all the right steps: car in TDC on piston #1, on compression stroke (I have triple checked it is not 180 out by removing the rocker cover and checking the “blow” through the spark plug hole) Dizzy in, pointing to #1. Static timing with approx. 6-8 deg BTDC. Sadly, I am unable to start the car… The car cranks, but it does not turn on. I have tried with different static timings, from 10 BTDC to 2 ATDC with no luck. After losing half of my hair (and charging the battery three times due to the cranking) I decided to go back to the previous configuration. Again, no luck. I presume it is a timing issue, but I have the feeling I have tried with all the combinations possible between 10BTDC to 2 ATDC. Since I have not been able to start it, dynamic timing with the timing light is not an option. I don’t understand how come the car does not start, it’s a mystery… Any suggestion would be very welcome. Thanks in advance!  
  23. Hi, I need a new Delco 6 dizzy cap, mine has pitting around electrodes and some cracked plastic which doesn't seem great! I think it's part GDC109. Also need a rotor or two (part GRA110). I hear both of these items can be poorly manufactured and some have had dead-on-arrival parts.  Any suggestions for trusted suppliers or info on whether I should be trying to find NOS bits? Cheers!
  24. Hi all,   It has been out of action for about a year and a half — and I've finally got around to resurrecting it. Lots of people asked me about it over that time — so here it is. www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle James  
  25. Hi, Can anyone help with an oil pressure issue I have on my Stag ?. I have petrol going in my oil, which I believe is the reason the oil pressure is low (more so on idle) as my oil is now extremely thin and smells really strong of petrol. Is this a likely reason for low oil pressure ?. I guess I can switch my oil to see if that returns the pressure to normal, but I need to stop fuel getting into my oil sump or I will be back to this thinned down oil in some weeks. Can this be something like a sticking float valve in the carb(s) that is dumping too much fuel through ?, or something like this ? Many thanks Ian. 
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