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  1. After being in my ownership for exactly 2 years I started dismantling the car today in preparation for some body work and a nice new paint job... Should be ready (completely stripped incl. paint) for the body repairs by mid February.
  2. At the moment I am in the process of uprating the front suspension for my TR7 Sprint. Most important upgrade will be the brakes but that is all worked out more or less.� The other part of the upgrade is converting the original strut uprights to adjustable ones so that I can use (more or less standard) 2�" diameter front springs. I am not sure wether to use the original (rubber) top mount or try to find "something else"� Anyone out there who can give me some advice on this one; what top mounts are available for a TR7 and what best to use ?
  3. Morning folks (its morning somewhere 🙂 ) Many of you followed my old thread on other version of this website, so I won't re-post everything here. You can find it all in my Triumph Experience Journal. https://www.triumphexp.com/journal/Hazen-Wardle.2393/ But a quick recap. I bought my GT6 back in '95 from a guy who claimed it was 'paint ready'. It was primed and ready to go, and I didn't have a clue. Needless to say I discovered it was far from paint ready. The interior had been painted, right over unprepped factory rust and paint. The exterior wasn't any better. I drove it for two years hoping I could make it a rolling restoration, but alas that was not in the cards. The floors were terribly rusted through, as were the inner rocker and strengthener. The outer sills, all four wings, boot floor, rear valance, bonnet had serious issues at the nose. It was all the usual and then some. So I parked it and pulled it apart and didn't work on it until 2009. It wasn't going to fix itself, and no one was going to do it for me unless I paid them--but I was broke (still am), I started learning and doing. Welding, metal work (tin bashing even), body work, mechanicals. The only thing I have farmed out so far was blasting and powdercoating the chassis/frame. Fast forward to now, I'm ready (nearly) for paint. Buying it this week. Just need to get the rear trim strips stuck in place first. Before: And now. I've got the inside bits painted. Just need to shoot the exterior. I've got to get the rear finishers attached, but I'm not happen with the aftermarket ones I bought. So anyway, this is I currently am. It's been a long road. In the time its taken me to get this far, I've seen other people start and complete cars in worse condition than mine. I've had to learn everything and acquire tools. Time and money have been a big factor as well. I just sneak in a few minutes here and there when I can.
  4. I'm feeling optimistic that I've finally eliminated the nasty knocking noises from my Herald Coupe's rear end. In the end the solution was easy, quick and very cheap and didn't involve removing the drive shaft. Armed with a good pair of circlip pliers and a handful of oversize UJ circlips - both .0615 and .0645 (for a couple of quid from Bill at Rarebits) I put her on axle stands and shimmied underneath to take a look at the offending UJ. Having read Bill's hints and tips, I knew which UJ was causing the knocking. One opposing pair of circlips was slightly lose, I could see that they had moved against the cup - not much but and indication they weren't tight enough, and I'd read in Bill's hints that they need to be tight. I removed the circlip and was able to get a .0615 in straight away. I tried the .0645s to no avail but wondered that if I gently tapped the cup in a bit, they might fit. Sure enough they did. I was left wondering if I'd done the right thing, but I knew that I'd only tapped the cups gently so couldn't really have damaged anything. And besides, it was done now. A quick test revealed the dammed tick tick tick on overrun on left hand corners had gone. I refused to believe it as I've suffered with this for more years than I care to remember, having replaced the whole drivetrain from the gearbox backward (including recon replacement driveshafts from a very reputable Triumph trader) I've had a couple of runs since and the noise really has gone, our run to the Goodwood Revival at the weekend will provide final confirmation but I'm optimistic. My experience concurs that driveshaft UJs need to be tight. The solution is cheap, easy and quick - thanks to Bill at Rarebits. Jez
  5. Picked up my last acquisition yesterday, to keep 't Kreng company in the shed; This will change my Triumph related plans a bit. Current plan is to restore this car first to more or less standard spec, with a few period upgrades, before tackling 't Kreng  ...  
  6. Struggling here with my 63 Vitesse 6. Been running sweetly for the last 2 years since new dizzy, points, condenser, rotor arm, coil and plugs. 11 days ago I was out for the afternoon and after about 1hr driving a small misfire developed. Got a bit more persistent but no problem getting home. It was one of those scorching days and I wondered if it was fuel related or the dreaded vapour lock - though I've not experienced either before. I cleaned and re-gapped points and plugs, reset valve gaps; checked float levels, fuel pipes and generally anything else as a minor service was due and I wanted to try to make diagnosis simple as possible if the misfire came back. I took the car for a good drive last Sunday - ran better than ever for a good 40/45 mins. Then suddenly a small misfire, this time rapidly developing into very lumpy running then cutting out. Wouldn't restart. Waited 3 hrs for a lift home on a flatbed - by which point it started sweetly and could be driven up my drive. Recovery chap said coil. Each time it cools down it can then work okay till hot again he said. So I replaced it. Then the condenser and plugs to be on the safe side. Again ran superbly today for 40 mins then sudden misfire and quickly ground to a halt. Any ideas what the problem is?  
  7. I am having trouble with both door catches!, driver side is intermittent to release and the passenger side wont open at all unless you thump the inside until the latch lets go!or you drive the car and it opens part way!, I have had a play with the drivers side this afternoon and adjusted the bolt from the push button so it now in contact with the lever( made no difference to how the latch operates)so still not working correctly,the pin seems to flip over ok!.when the door is open should the latching pin be at the top or bottom when closing the door?. looking at new B post striker plates I have noticed that new ones have a straight internal vertical edge, mine are hooked out at the top of the catch(is this what is holding up the pin? any tips appreciated
  8. I have quite a few UNF ‘nylon insert’ nuts (5/8, 3/4,  7/8) spare. Also have 5/16 light and heavy washers, and 6g x 1/2” self-tapers which are used with spire-clips for sidelights etc. Why? Once upon a time I started a tiny business selling packs of fixings for restorations etc, and thence upon a time i stopped :)  I’d rather they help toward someone’s maintenance or restoration than selling as a job-lot on eBay, so if anyone needs a handful, please let me know. Happy to send them if you pay postage, otherwise you’re welcome to collect from Cheltenham. 
  9. one of my wheel bearings is on the way out and I am wondering if this is a job I can do myself or if I should put it in to someone who knows what they are doing? Is there issues with shimming etc?...........don't want to make an ar$e of it!! David
  10. Ok, you are going to roll your eyes at me but I’m new to owning a GT6 Mark II and trying to understand the overdrive. Do I use it like a 5th gear? I keep forgetting to disengage. What Damage am I causing if do the following: 1. Forget to disengage when I come to a halt and then switch it off before pulling away in 1st gear? 2. Forget to disengage as I drop down through the gears? 3. Pull away in 1st with overdrive still engaged? 4. Use reverse gear while Having overdrive engaged? Thanks!  
  11. RMC590L


    Im looking to do a engine rebuild on my 1973 2000 2litre. I want to try and increase the power a bit without losing drivability. I have been looking into camshafts. One that i have been looking at is from a tr6. I have been told there are 2 different power engines in tr6's. The CR version at125bhp and the CP version at150bhp. Its been suggested to me that the cam from the lower powered CR engine will work in a 2 litre engine and do what im asking.  Has anyone fitted a tr6 camshaft to a 2 litre? If someone has what was the results? I can get my engine number if needed.  Thanks in advance.
  12. Sheepy


    are new ones still made? if so where is the best place to get one (mk1 gt6) my friend just bought a rally gt6 and when the sun shines you cant see through the screen as its heavily scratched cheers shaun
  13. For years I've been having problems with the parking switch on my wiper motor. Normally lasted 6 months..    Now I had bought another one and fitted it during our lockdown. It already failed after 2 weeks (and only put my wipers on once to clean my windscreen)  Opened it up, cleaned it all up inside (burned contacts) & it was working again... until the first rain shower last week.. So...  I've now put in a microswitch. But its very very tight ! Last 2 days been testing it and works great. I do need to make another one, as i need to remake it a bit to be even better.   Original vs. prototype no.1  !
  14. The IV/1500 Spitfire hardtop has two pairs of self tapping screws that attach the quarterlight hinges to the hardtop, each one screws into a square shaped captive thingy that presses into the hardtop. I need two of these, does anyone know where I can get some? Wouldn't have a bloody clue where to look...
  15. I will be going to the post office tomorrow to get my free road tax and get the log book changed to Historic on my 1980 Spitfire. The dvla shows the production date as Dec 31st. But I have a heritage certificate which says Mar 23rd 1980. Do I need to send that off separately to get that changed or will the post office send it off with the log book to the dvla. Danny
  16. Bit of a crisis! My poor dear little 1200 conv. has had the bracket that holds the 'tie rod(?) to the outrigger, come adrift. My pro. pal 'tack welded' it as a temporary, get-you-home repair. I've looked at replacement outriggers & plan on getting one, asap, from Chic Doig (who seems to have a good reputation for his panels.etc.) Question is.......can the old one be removed & the new one replace it, with the body on? Any help, advice, experiences (good & bad), most welcome as I have amother pal who just happens to be a pro. welder, who has kindly promised to tackle it for me - (I shall give whatever help I can!) Thanks, in advance... 
  17. Mot Fail If You Have Converted To Led  Just seen this link on the Ducati Forum  https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/special-notice-01-21-headlamp-conversions/mot-special-notice-01-21-headlamp-conversions
  18. I’m not sure if this is the right place for this topic, but I spent an interesting afternoon looking at the build archives at the Heritage Motor Center and tracked down the shipping slip and build slip for my GT6. The dealer is listed as Carrs Auto Sales LTD Croydon, I can find a little bit of info on the net that they were a big Triumph dealer back in the day and an address that doesn’t exist today (2 standard house, south End, Croydon) But I can’t seem to find much else, does anyone have any info?  Some pictures of the dealer’s stickers would be a great addition to add to the car. Dan
  19. Ok - In the drive for performance and reliability - Ref Historic Rallying and RBRR - what do the team think? Scrutineers reliably inform me that I CAN move away from points to electronic ignition and still remain within the regulations of post historic (H2 / Cat. 2 )  rallying provided I use the optronic and not magnetronic system - as Luminition WAS available in period as an after market tuning option. So Ref use of such in a GT6 MKII what are the comparative pros and cons of either the Standard Lumenition Optronic system vs the Performance Optronic system - ( high revs in 2nd gear on tests - but otherwise normal driving with some high speed cruising. ) Particularly interested in the experience of those that have used such. Are they compatible with the mechanical tacho-drive my current Ex TR6 USA Spec Lucas Dizzy has?
  20. Dear All At the invitation of our web master Keith Bennett the Committee has been asked to consider the next generation of CT Web presence. In order to ensure that the membership has its say, ( and that we go in the right direction ) all members and forum users are requested to give three points that they would like to see incorporated in our next generation of IT  . The Committee would certainly like the future to be phone friendly as so many of us use smart phones these days . We would also like to retain the searchable nature of the forum as this is so important and so much better than social media is able to provide. We will be considering all suggestions and also have appointed Clive Senior to review other websites for forward thinking idea's and ease of use. If you have suggestions for us please answer on this thread . I will also post this notice on FB. This is not an invitation to start old debates so please be positive and let us all look to the future.   Darren Sharp - Club Secretary
  21. That's what it looks like, anyway. My GT6 has been at the paint shop for the last four months, and finally some of the panels have been painted. When I stripped off all the paint, I found previously repaired dents in every panel. The poor car had had a hard life, apparently, and many dents had been repaired by drilling holes for a dent puller, roughly pulling the dents out and then smoothing the landscape with filler. Both doors looked like they'd been shot, and the nose cone was a piece of sculpture! Since September Joe the painter has worked on each panel in turn, pulling out the remaining dents with an electric welding puller, and welding up all the 'bullet' holes. He's also cut and wire-rolled some bonnet vents - apologies to the purists, but I want to be able to drive this car in the tropics. My brother had a few hours to kill in Mackay this week, and so went to the shop to see (a) what a GT6 looks like and (b) what mine looks like. The photos are from his phone, but even so I'm impressed. The colour is Mallard, which looks green here but is actually a bluey-green. I'm delighted with the apparent finish off the gun. It's 2-pack and is so shiny that it looks as though the car's been dipped in liquid glass. Joe hasn't done much to the body tub yet. It needs two new floorpans welded in, a RHD dashboard frame fitted and new pedal mount and battery box panels welded into the bulkhead. I'll have to fly up sometime and make sure he gets it right - he's brilliant but hasn't ever worked on a Triumph before! It's a big change from the sun-scorched, dented and rusty wreck I bought two years ago.
  22. Hiya all, I wondered if anyone can shed (get what I did there) any wisdom on how to remove the upper inner steering column from the outer steering column cover? I'm replacing the outer cover as it is completely mashed at the top and have put new bushes in in prep to install the inner upper column. However I can't get the damn thing out. Clearly where the steering lock bit is bigger in circumference, but it just doesn't go through the the old bushes (and clearly won't go through the newly installed bushes in the new cover), so any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated
  23. Hello I have stripped my 1500 spit bonnet to bare metal on top (left underside to prime over). Some previous filling had been done as some lazy toad could not be bothered taking small dents out with dolly. Anyhooo, done some metal work on the arches and now preping ready to paint. The top of the bonnet (after being stripped with nitromors) seems to have a dull matt finish to bare metal. Did triumph galvanise or dip bare steel bonnets in some form or metal protection? I have applied some 40% phosphoric acid solution to one wing and a few hours later removed the dry residue with wire wool. Looks ok but seems to remove the dull matt finish mentioned above. I plan to hit the entire top surface of bonnet with phos acid to etch for primer. Can you spot any issues here? Cheers
  24. Just got my 13/60 back on the road and have noticed that the bottom end has started to knock for the first few revolutions when the engine starts. Wondering whether the oil pump is at fault or whether an oil additive could save the day? Would measuring the oil pressure be of any help at this stage? If it is the oil pump then might I as well replace the bottom end bearings or is a major rebuild inevitable? What would you guys advise? 
  25. Hello. Wondered if anyone could help with a problem I have with my MKIII GT6 please?  Essentially, it runs fine when started from cold but then cuts out when it gets warm. If I leave it for 30mins it will restart fine but then cut out again after a while. I initially changed the fuel pump, the coil, and reverted back to points from an electric ignition but the problem still remained. I then noticed that the fuel filter generally empties before the car cuts out. If I detach the fuel pipe between the fuel filter and carbs immediately after the car cuts out, there appears to be some back pressure in the fuel pipe. If I turn over the car with the fuel pipe detached after the fuel filter, the fuel is delivered fine. I suspected a problem with the float valve in the carbs and replaced both on the Strombergs but that didn’t help (one was sticking so I thought I’d nailed it but alas this was not the case). I now suspect a fuel lock it generated - possibly due to some potential heat escaping from the exhaust manifold gasket but I’m clutching at straws now. Before I start taking the exhaust manifold off, does anyone have any ideas or suggestions for me please? Thanks. 
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