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Comments

  1. After being in my ownership for exactly 2 years I started dismantling the car today in preparation for some body work and a nice new paint job... Should be ready (completely stripped incl. paint) for the body repairs by mid February.
  2. At the moment I am in the process of uprating the front suspension for my TR7 Sprint. Most important upgrade will be the brakes but that is all worked out more or less.� The other part of the upgrade is converting the original strut uprights to adjustable ones so that I can use (more or less standard) 2�" diameter front springs. I am not sure wether to use the original (rubber) top mount or try to find "something else"� Anyone out there who can give me some advice on this one; what top mounts are available for a TR7 and what best to use ?
  3. Picked up my last acquisition yesterday, to keep 't Kreng company in the shed; This will change my Triumph related plans a bit. Current plan is to restore this car first to more or less standard spec, with a few period upgrades, before tackling 't Kreng  ...  
  4. I've just got some 15" MGF Alloys to go on the TR, what size tyres are people using? I'm thinking 185/55 or maybe a 195/50 ??
  5. The starter on my Sprint engined TR is gradually getting worse. When you turn the key more often than not the starter just spins but doesn't engage, it has always done it since I got the car. It was just occasionally and I could live with it but now it is happening more and more and taking longer to engage. I'm going to change the starter, wondering is there any advantage to fitting a high torque version as they are a little dearer but not stupid amounts more. I'm not sure if mine has the heat shield fitted as is shown on the TR starter, is this something that helps prolong the starter?
  6. I'm thinking I my treat the TR to a new battery to go with the starter I'm going to get. What battery are people fitting, anything fancy or just what ever fits?
  7.   Hi all, I know the combustion chambers are a slightly different shape, but will a 7 head work on an 1850 block, as a quick and dirty stopgap until I can get the '7 engine done?  Thanks, Tim.
  8. A some time ago I realised that over the past 10 years my TR7 wiring has been substantially changed by me (electronic ignition / LED lights / electric fan / driving lights etc) but the wiring diagram cannot be updated. Because the original wiring diagram is a difficult to read, I am creating a new version for a European standard 81 DHC as an AutoCad .dwg file. Unfortunately its taken much longer to finish than I expected as I am trying to fill in the gaps in the information from the original Triumph & Hayes drawings. This is the first detail section which covers the headlamp raise / lower system and the main/dip/flash circuits. The next section will cover the windscreen wiper circuit and the final drawing will show the complete wiring diagram. Please let me know if you spot any errors so they can be corrected before I upload the final AutoCAD file Link to PDF download https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0OCjgNgn85aZG5RTmV3V0pyS28 This file is published under the GPL licence, so everyone is free to modify and share it, but the same restrictions apply to any derivatives. Cheers Howard
  9. Driving along normally at about 40 - 45 mph. Suddenly the front end starts shimmying like an epileptic belly-dancer. After 15 or 20 seconds, everything settles down again and it drives perfectly for the next half an hour. Repeat at irregular intervals. 1) Tyres are worn to slightly different diameters and sometimes come into destructive resonance. 2) One or both front tyres have lost balance weights. 3) Loose nuts. 4) Worn bearings. 5) Worn steering mechanism. 6) Other cause?
  10. I've had a search through the forums 'brake upgrade' messages and can't find reference to using these on a TR7. I've just been offered a pair of complete front struts from an 85 3500SE. How much modification am I looking at to use the 4 pot calipers on my 76 TR7 ? Is there any chance the result would fit inside 13 inch alloy wheels? If everything fits would I need to change the master cylinder? Regards, Colin
  11. Have decided I need to get my heap finished before I can decide it's fate so need to get it to stop better. First up is upgrading the brake servo, what are people using? Anyone tried a Rover SD1 unit? Cheers.
  12. Hi all, My brake servo wasn't holding a vacuum, it works and passed the MOT but if you sit with your foot on the brake and switch the engine off, you can feel the pedal start to push back. I checked the non return valve with a Miti Vac and by blowing through it and it definitely works. So I thought it must have a hole in the diaphragm and duly purchased a servo. The problem is this one is exactly the same so I no longer think its a diaphragm issue. I am no expert on Servos, but it looks to me that the vacuum side is sealed by the master Cylinder, but when I removed the master the only thing that looks like it might be a seal is a black ring on the cylinder where it sits inside the recess. and unless there's a bit missing it doesn't look like it'll seal anything. Has a PO fitted the master and missed out a vital seal?
  13. Trebor

    Stuck Clutch

    Just to say thanks guys, my car was laid up for winter/spring and I went to take her out. The gears were selectable with the engine off, when running they wouldn't engage....so a search on our site revealed what I had to do, job done I was out in the sun for a run, If it wasnt for this site it would have taken me longer to sort A salutary lesson for me....
  14. looking for aset of wheels for my rally project im still using tr7 pcd id like a set of 9x15 rear 8x15 fronts but failed to find out what the off sets are on the wheels they need to fill out arches also looking for a floor mounted pedal box any one help? may consider changing pcd to ford fitment but who and where do they carry out this work? cheers guys
  15. Have a set of TR7 Alloys to put on my Dolomite but do I need to use TR7 wheel nuts or will I be able to use my sprint alloy ones? If not does anybody have a set for sale 3/8 I believe? Thanks Rich
  16. Hi, I was wondering if anyone had a view as to the best quality front wing lower repair panels. Both Robsport and Rimmers list them, but there is a difference in the pricing. Many thanks Brett
  17. Since I am now the proud owner of a 1982 TR7 DHC, I thought I would look into replacing the seats with a safer more modern seat (like the MGF seats I have in the Vitesse, a pretty common swap). There seems to be a lot written around the pro's and con's of this in the TR7/8, and that the factory seats are very good when in good nick, which I totally agree with; but I can't find a definitive thread showing seats that people have installed and feedback as to how they found them in use, too high, too wide etc. So what has been fitted? what do they look like? whats are the catches to fitting them? pictures please I have also attached a poll for some of the swaps I have seen (got a funny feeling 'factory' will come out on top on this one).
  18. GT6 M

    TR7 roof

    One for Beans maybe,   Is this a factory effort, or aftermarket https://youtu.be/08cxhuGA-6c?t=77 M
  19. I've had severaly different types of these now to see which seem to fit the best. None are great. To anyone who has installed these, what is the best method? Have you installed rivnuts into the quarters and just pulled them up gently against some rubber piping to stop the rubbing again the paintwork? Any wise words or pics would be great of how its done properly. Iain
  20. TRad

    Starter motor

    Hi have fitted reconditioned starter and new 5 pin starter relay to my tr7. Once connected back up, the ignition light was on w/o the key in the ignition. Don't want to start it as its live for some reason? Any ideas? Cheers
  21. Am just working on wiring in an electric fuel pump - any thoughts as to where to put the wire throu to the pump.  I was planning on running a new power supply wire from the front of the car inside with the main loom.  Will connect it to a "live with ignition on" position via a cut out switch under the bonnet.
  22. MDS

    Mazda MX5 Seats

    I understand that the seats from a Mazda MX5 provide a satisfactory modern upgrade from the original TR7/8 seats? I have been told that the earlier seats are better (the ones with separate head rests), could anyone please confirm this and also help with the following question? Do I fit the MX5 seats with the Mazda seat runners or do I need to use the original seat runners instead? Many thanks.
  23. I am beginning to get back into action with my TR7 DHC after circumstances have prevented me using it, or most of my other cars for a number of years.  I have a number of issues I want to address on my TR7 and number one is increasingly heavy steering, especially under hard cornering and parking. I am posting my experience here for the benefit of other TR7/8 owners who have a similar problem. I had a new fast rack on the car about 8 years/40K miles ago and I don't recall the steering being particularly light then.  Since then I have not maintained the steering other than applying 3-in-1 high performance lubricant to the universal joints, steering shaft  bushes and in general to the suspension.  BIG MISTAKE Reading the Haynes Manual, greasing the steering rack is a 6K mile maintenance item. This is apparently achieved by removing the center nut in the middle of the cover plate over the steering box (13mm spanner) and replacing it with a grease nipple, applying 5-6 squirts from a grease gun, running the rack from side to side and applying more grease if felt necessary.  The grease nipple needs to be removed and the center nut reinserted as this nut acts to retain a damper within the rack and pinion. That is an easy job to perform if you have a correctly sized grease nipple. I needed to get this job done quite quickly so did not conduct an extensive search, but quickly found no suitable item in the Robsport or Rimmer catalogs.  I phoned Rimmers, who said that they had never heard of needing a nipple for this job.  From this you may conclude that there are a lot of TR7s out there, as mine, that have not had basic steering maintenance carried out. Hence this post. Not to be thwarted I asked an MG owning mate about what he did.  He understood the problem and said that he had filled his steering racks on a number of MGs over many years with EP90 oil and found it to be satisfactory.  I have given this a go.  It only needs about 100ml and it has transformed my steering. TR7 steering will never be light, but mine is now quite acceptable and no real effort.  I did this about 2 weeks ago and have driven about 120 miles and don't appear to have any leaks or other problems. I hope this is helpful.
  24. Hi all, would like some advice for my 1977 TR7 FHC with 5 speed box. The clutch pedal sits far to high compared to the other pedals and is awkward to engage as I have long legs, also the clutch seems to bite high up. Am I right in thinking that if I fit a shorter master cylinder push rod or modify I can get the pedal to sit lover down. Also if I shorten the push rod on the slave cylinder or put spacers in to distance the slave cylinder from the bell housing, this might help with the clutch biting point. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Paul
  25. Looking at uprated hubs, does anyone know what size bearings are used. It was suggested that GT6 outer was used but this appears to have a larger inner diameter. Those that do supply these hubs appear unwilling to share this info.
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