shenderson

Each to their own - I find it easier to judge what is an acceptable level of binding with the wheel removed, and access to the adjuster is certainly easier.

With the wheel removed, they hold the drum against the hub, making it much easier to adjust the brakes.  A little smear of copperslip grease on the threads should stop them seizing in place.

Looks like a PAS pump.

On 04/12/2023 at 07:21, frenchiemk2 said:

Hi

Does a swaybar improve the driving of rhe Pi and does the Stag one fit to the mk2 ? 

Thanks

According to Rimmers website, Stag antiroll bar is different (different part number).  Rimmers also do a mounting kit, but you would also need to replace the drag links for the type with antiroll bar attachment points (not included in the kit).

Chris witor has them listed: https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=TKC2863R

It's the same as 2000/2500 models with antiroll bar which, as far as I remember, is all estates and 2500S.  I suspect only the ARB versions are available as they will fit non-ARB cars.

Although the rear brakes are supposed to be self-adjusting, the mechanism is not very effective.

My procedure is to pump the pedal hard a few times to operate the self-adjusters as far as possible.

Then with the drum removed, lever the shoes apart until you hear the adjuster click three or four times.  Two large screwdrivers (or similar implement), one for each shoe is useful for this.  Try not to let the shoes move vertically when doing this, to keep them centralised.

Refit the drum and repeat the process until the brakes take no more adjustment while allowing the drum to rotate freely.

Then repeat the entire process for the brake on the other side of the car.

With high mileage, the teeth of the self-adjusters wear out and slip against each other.  Replacements are avaialble.

Not sure what is meant by a 'vent' type filter.  Could be a filter in the fuel tank vent (breather) pipe, which allows air into the tank tank is the fuel level drops?

It's worth checking/cleaning the contacts in the solenoid - if you can dismantle it.

That kit should do the job.

I think the same master cylinder is used on Stags.  You could try Past Parts: https://www.pastparts.co.uk/

I soldered the earth tags to the bulb holders.  Never any problems since.

Could I have the door cards?

Westfield fasteners have a wide range of nuts, bolts, screws, self tappers, washer etc in a range of finishes, that can be ordered on-line - www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk

Could it be a BSP (British Standard Pipe) thread?  No idea what the AF sizes are, but I've never seen a plumber use anything other than an adjustable spanner.

Restoration should be possible, given enough time, money and commitment.  Have a look at the Triumph Stag Rescue posts by Matt306 for inspiration.

Beware though that when done, the market value is unlikely to come close to the restoration costs.

Hopefully it will be saved but, if not, I would hope that as many parts as possible can be saved to keep others on the road.

I also thought it was a Triumph design, originally used in the Rover SD1 and later in TR7 & 8.  It was also used in Jaguars and Leyland DAF vans, and eventually became the standard manual box in Land Rovers, Range Rovers and Discoverys.

I have an LT77 in a Stag, using Jaguar remote selector linkage, but with RV8 engine.

Interesting history.  If the engine has lost its WL9 camshaft, I've got one lying around that you are welcome to have.

There is one for sale on here, also advertised in Club Torque.  Try putting "TR6, 1970, in Blue for sale" in the Search box.

I got mine from Think Automotive: https://www.thinkauto.com/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=r9&PN=On_line_shop_fuel_injection_hose_126.html#aR9_2dM6_2e3

The handbrake linkage inside the drum is probably seized.

I had a similar problem getting the front of the car high enough to get the engine out from below, so I removed the head and studs first.  This also made engine a bit more manageable to handle.

You need to lower the back of the gearbox to get access to the upper bell housing bolts, and probably also need a socket with 2 or 3 extension bars to reach them..  From memory, I think the 3 top fixings are studs, and there are (or should be) 2 dowel bolts diametrically opposite each other.

I always start by adjusting the brakes right off and pushing the pistons in as far as they will go, with the nipple open, to push as much air as possible out of the cylinders before bleeding fluid through the system.  Also, since the hydraulic circuit branches out at various points at T-pieces etc, if one brake is bled continuously, air may be drawn in to that line from the adjoining lines.  Therefore it is usually necessary to bleed each brake in sequence and then repeat.  Then go through the process again...

I have two spare J-Types in my garage, both out of 2.5 saloons.  Will need rebuilding; one of them lost forward drive, which I think indicates the one-way clutch is shot.

I have no need for them, so available to anyone who wants to exchange them.

54 minutes ago, yorkshire_spam said:

To be honest I'd just double double double check that it's not running very lean or too far advanced at tick-over but correct at full chat. That would give you a pretty good reason for the engine temp rising in traffic/low RPM. 

...and beware if the rubber element between the inner and outer parts of the crank pulley degrades, the two parts can rotate relative to each other.  If that happens, the timing marks will move.

When everything is in order, the temp gauges have always been stable at 1/2 on all my Triumphs over the years.  An electric fan shouldn't cause a problem, as long as it's big enough for the job.

You're welcome, it's a great looking car.