thebrookster

13 hours ago, thescrapman said:

I don’t think anyone got to speak to Phil at Gledrid! 

🙂

Not far wrong there 😉

13 hours ago, thescrapman said:

Hopefully there are some stickers left for him

Tim has me sorted, so all's well that ends well 😊

2 hours ago, GT64fun said:

On the 2018 RBRR I inadvisably flashed a truck that I thought hadn't dipped and was met by a responding flash of lights and lightbar bar, that dam near blinded us!

Ian

Yeah, I only ever flash (and a quick flash at that) under serious provocation for that very reason!

6 hours ago, Tim Bancroft said:

Hi Phil,

We have been issuing 'Advice Notes' for years, still not convinced that people read them.

MOT guidance, not sure we have the authority to do such a thing?

 

Not so much MOT guidance I was thinking off, Tim, rather a document that mimics the MOT requirements and focuses on safety of events. Hence headlights/shocks/tyres/brakes would immediately come to mind. This could then be sent as part of the joining pack for all CT events, and would give a guideline to owners as to standards expected? Many of us already have a good idea of these of course, but I imagine would be very useful for new members or those who are not so mechanically minded?

Just a thought anyway.

Are there any of these left by any chance? In particular the "front" sticker with Nuala's Green/Yellow spitfire on it. 

As some here may know, Nuala was responsible for starting my Triumph love, back when I worked in her hotel over a decade ago. In fact, I completed my first (and so far only) RBRR in 2018 as her co-driver.

I completely missed the fact that this run partly commemorated her, indeed only found out less than a fortnight before. (Downsides of a life at sea unfortunately).

However, if there is a spare sticker left over, I would love one to put up in my garage, just for memories sake.

Yours hopefully,

Phil

Unfortunately, I rather suspect that many MOT stations simply don't bother checking beam alignment any more. Not just an issue with classics, but moderns as well. So, regrettably I suspect the holding of an MOT certificate will make little improvement. And in regards to our cars, first find a station that actually understands classics and can MOT then appropriately!

LED lights have long been a bug bear of mine, I simply hate them as dipped beams and strongly believe they should be banned outright for all. Even in my truck I find cars blinding me when oncoming, and I am sat well above the average driver. But again, I refuse to believe so many headlights go out of adjustment so fast after an MOT, hence I suspect simply not checked!

I strongly urge all owners to follow the above advice of using normal bulbs for dipped. A very good idea if it can be implemented.

For the record, I do actually run an LED light bar on the truck, mainly because the headlights on the Ford Rangers are notoriously terrible (my 2000 fixed beams put out more light lol), which is linked to the main beams. I also use the trailor function to lower the dips when following cars, to ensure my cutoff is below their rear window!

I do wonder if CT should maybe issue some general guidelines for what standards are deemed "acceptable", rather than relying on a vehicle being "road legal/MOT'd", as we are all aware that is a movable goalpost these days. Such a document would cover all events as well, not just this one and might help mitigate the removal of MOT requirements. After all, who better to take the lead than enthusiasts clubs!

Phil

Still planning on coming through for this, however there are plenty road closures around Loch Lomond area so I cannot guarantee to make it right now.

Weather does appear to be improving (slightly!) so fingers are crossed.

Phil

Cheers Jim and Tim!

I'll hunt out a HiVis, and happily help out.

Saloon is painted, still with Chic getting bits put in, then I get her back for engine etc and finishing the rebuild.

Cheers,

Phil

What is the timing of the Gartcosh pie stop please?

Not for the pies, I assure you, but I've just got back in the UK so would like to pop along and cheer folks on. And if I can be of any use I'm happy to turn to, although I suspect you have the manning already sorted?

Phil (an ex RBRR participant, 2018)

6 hours ago, twincamspit said:

I'd post a photo but the only option seems to be 'Insert image from URL' which means I'd have to host the photo somewhere.

On the reply window you have an "Add Files" button, upload your photos here. 

You can then place the cursor where you want in your text, then click the photo you want to insert and done. If you don't insert they land on the end of the post.

HTH,

Phil

Blimey. Not so sure I want to post here, it reads as a horror story just now!!

R2000 - aka "The Red Shed" - currently with Chic Doig getting a full body job done. Not sure what is being done as of yet, but Chic no has pretty much every MK1 panel Lloyd has made, plus a few additional panels that are also required. Chic has had this since Jan last year, Covid kinda got in the way and he has also this year moved from his garage/shop of many years up to Perth, so kinda on tenterhooks as to how much work has actually been done as of yet. Got an engine and gearbox to rebuild, EFI to design/fit, new wiring loom to install, and all (fingers very tightly crossed) aiming to be done by next 10CR!

Herald Estate - only custodian of this one, is a Team Torpedo entrant. Got an OD gearbox to fit, I rebuilt the box last time home but the cold winter of Scotland put me off from fitting it!

2 X Heralds, 1 convertible and 1 saloon. Both need major resto, thinking to make one of them a "fun" car for hillclimbs etc. Long term projects however!

1 X GT6 (chassis + logbook) - Veeeeeerrrrrrrrry long term project.

Ohh, and horrors above, MGBGT! Needs a lick of paint, a quick mechanical once over and will be selling this one on again. I only bought it because it was local, and v. cheap just before the last lockdown started.

So basically, the only running classic I have isn't even mine 😆 

Phil

As a "Before & After" guy, it affected me, however a quick password reset sorted it nicely.

Even nicer was that it allowed to continue with my original password, so I don't need to go round trying to update all my multiple "password lists" that are supposed to make online life easier but usually has the complete opposite result.

Phil

Well, for me this is a good move. 

For the first time in several years I am now routinely keeping the forum open on my phone and checking it. The old site I was lucky if I checked it a couple of times a year!

Small thoughts re usability, well more regarding the colour schemes. I am a big fan of the "dark mode" theme that is gaining more and more popularity, far easier for me to read. So I enabled here. However, some of the navigation features become "lost" with the colours, so if it is feasible can we highlight these? Below I highlight what I mean, using Sideways as comparison to illustrate the bits that kinda disappear:

So you see here the link to return back to parent section on sideways has an arrow around it, giving a visual clue as to what it does. On CT dark theme this can't be seen (though the link itself is there!!)

Here (no comparison on this sorry) I find the test very difficult to see, maybe lightening or changing colour is possible?

Basically, small niggles so far, and yet to venture into the main site (majority of my browsing these days is on phone, so signatures etc don't enter my radar 🙃). Also, I haven't tried this site on pc yet (and will not be able to do so for quite a while) so I cannot say if this is the same on desktop view.

Phil

Quick question for you guys,

Is it possible to remove the engine from the top? All three manuals I have give instructions for dropping the engine down after removing the front suspension, but make no mention of why it cannot come up?

I would prefer to remove upwards if possible, however if it has to go down, then down it will go!

Cheers,

Phil

Quoted from steve hudson-

Dirk not sure if it helps, but there is a recovery garage not far from the location you give, its 55.171212, -3.545368, James H Glen Motor Engineers 01387 860346, it may be worth a call to see if its there.

Steve

Thats in Dumfries Steve??

As Dirk said, I am going to pop through in a couple of hours to have a wee shifty and see how the land lies. However, encouragingly, I have been in contact with an ex RBRR Participant, Chris Sherrington (of the judo fame) who used to live close by, and he has assured me that the area is in fact pretty reputable looks aside. So that is a glimmer of good news to start of with.

BTW Dirk - no payment to me required, all I ask is that maybe someday you can be of similar service to another triumph owner over your way.

Cheers

Phil

Dirk,

 

I have emailed you via here, If myself and Nuala can be of any assistance we would love to do so!!

Phil (Team 24)

Quoted from kin74

Just to ask, is it a mandatory to use to common platform or each team can collect money by its own?

As far as I recall, each team can have their own page and it should link back to the Charity?

At least, the Rescue Boat I am a member off regularly has people fundraise for them, and by naming the boat (we are an independent charity) it links to us.

Phil

Sam,

I can't recall the exact figure, but a surprising number of bearings fail from new. So it would not be beyond the realms of possibilities that it was a duff bearing?

Cheers,

Phil

Give it time to load Paul.

I am not actually making an entry, but I am watching the list and loading time is slow! But it does appear to be getting there eventually.

Cheers,

Phil

My advice would be to avoid the Lucas Golf coils, unless quality has gone back up recently!

My big saloon had multiple issues with these, all solved once I changed over to a Bosch sports coil.

On a related but separate note, I have also had some good successes with the Bosch triple electrode plugs, our engines seem to like them! I know a few other members in here have had similar findings.

Cheers,

Phil

Mark - I have used both to some success, and I prefer the version you posted.

Simply because I found it easier to get a good seal on the carb mouth, the Gunsen style I find to be just a tad more fiddly.

Phil

Your red line of 5.5k is likely correct, however do take into account the state of your engine! If it has never been rebuilt or is tired I would advise keeping a lower rev limit for safety, however if it has been rebuilt or you know it is in good condition then I cannot see anything wrong with 5.5k! That is your judgement call really!

I run my my 2l (in a 2000 saloon, but same engine) happily up to 5.5k, and probably over (lack of a rev counter means ignorance is bliss for me ).

Phil

I think there must be some confuzzlement here Joner!!

I use James Carruther's site for doing rpm/speed checking, can be found here: http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/gearspeed/

The original Mk1 Vitesse (1600 engine) would have had the 4.11 diff fitted.
The Mk2 (2 litre) would have had a 3.89 fitted as standard.

However, either way if you check the actual rpm against speed for 4th OD, the 3.89 should give engine rpm of 3400 roughly, whereas the 4.11 would be 3600.
This definitely suggests your rev counter is out!! On a standard Vitesse with no mods, I would reasonably expect about 100mph at redline, assuming a redline of circa 4500 rpm.

What Marcus is saying above is the 3.27 ratio will be too low for the engine. You will find pulling away from the lights, or in fact any kind of acceleration will be seriously degraded. This ratio is best left to those with seriously tricked out 2 litres and the 2.5l engines that have more torque. The 3.89 would take you back to standard, or if you want a lower cruising rpm without affecting the acceleration to greatly the 3.63 would be a better choice.

First things first however, get hold of a satnav or smartphone with gps, stick a gps speedo on it and check the speedo is working correctly. Use the mintylamb site to give the correct rpms for your car (assume a 3.89 for this) and see how it compares to your rev counter. The waggly needle effect on both rev counters and speedo's on our cars is a well known phenomenon!!

Cheers,

Phil

Quoted from Stu 1986

I have the standard metal fan fitted to my engine, a re cored radiator and a NOS heater matrix. The engine appears to run slightly hot, on the gauge it sits above the N mark but not near the H. The only thing I haven't replaced is the water pump which as far as I can tell works. I am concerned about the warmer weather though, if it comes. If she's hot in 8-12c temperatures, how will she be in 20+?

A quick point in relation to this info.

The temp gauges on cars are not calibrated. Just because it reads above the N mark is not really of much use to you, unless you have a history of it sitting consistently lower under similar conditions.

First thing in this case is pull the temp sensor out and stick in some water with a thermometer , ideally about 86C. And see then where the needle points. This will be roughly where you want the needle when running.

Aside from that, cheers for the link!! As it happens I am in need of some carb shields for my 2000, as whenever I stop for fuel etc I have big issues with fuel evaporation!!

Cheers,

Phil

Quoted from WIMPUS

Been thinking of changing the oil in a week or 2 weeks time on the gearbox, just to get the dirt out etc .

Should this be done or not ? 🙂

Heck Aye!!!!!!!!!

Same as an engine, there will always be a initial running in period. In the case of your gearbox all the gears will essentially bed themselves in, and you will inevitably have small bits of metal in the bottom. Have you fitted a magnetic drain plug?
And, as you say, there will also be a certain amount of dirt present that will flush out.

Good Luck!!

Phil

Well, I have bought (and received, excellent service from Opie Oils I have to say!!!) some Redline MT90 as per Nick's suggestion.

Once I get it in I shall be sure to report back!

Cheers,

Phil