Boxofbits

6 hours ago, GT64fun said:

Probably made from Chinesium!

😆😆definitely!

1 hour ago, Dale said:

Looking at the tensioner, the broken bit would certainly explain the noise but not a lack of power. There's plenty of tension left in the remaining half to hold the chain pretty well tensioned and, if anything, a slightly slack chain will make the engine go a bit better by allowing the valve timing to change slightly - Vitesse's I've had in the past always seemed to pick up better before a new timing chain was fitted although they were smoother afterwards.

Maybe it didn’t matter too much though it definitely seemed down on power. With the reworked head and a good engine tune that may well come back. I know the carbs ‘swallowed’ quite a lot of water that weekend so possibly the filters were saturated? We’ll see what it’s like when all back together fingers crossed.

Kevin

2 hours ago, glang said:

Trouble is how do you find better quality components like tensioners as few manufacturers so all suppliers often stock the same thing....

 

I know The TR Register have an initiative called the ‘Spares Development Fund’, and many owners or companies manufacturer spare parts of a high standard. Some very useful previously unobtainable parts there back in production. This is the link..

https://www.trsdf.uk/projects

But I’ve not come across this one with the tensioner before though it could always be a one-off. I’ll have a chat with Moss and TR shop tomorrow about it. It would not be difficult to manufacture it from high quality sprung steel I wouldn’t have thought?

1 hour ago, thescrapman said:

28% overdrives featured on Big Healeys, Aston Martins and The old “Auntie” Rovers, I think.

 

Am I right in thinking the Standard Vanguard also was 28%?
 

Not surprising the engines only did 60k before rebuild back in the day as the gear ratios were so much lower! 

Thanks all

Kevin

1 hour ago, glang said:

Yes heat treatment/material obviously wrong so too brittle. This is a worry with many after market components now as theres no way with out a full laboratory to know if an item matches the correct design spec☹️

Overdrive a personal thing really as depends what speed you tend to cruise at. If you pootle on smaller roads and avoid long motorways runs then the cost/work/added unreliability of overdrive makes it not worthwhile especially if most noise comes from wind rather than engine. There will be slightly less engine wear but thats not a major factor for most people these days and neither is fuel saving which is also pretty much negligible....

As you say the tensioner far too brittle and just snapped, so it can’t be good quality sprung steel. I don’t remember them ever snapping like that. 

Funny you should mention wind noise. On the RBRR the wind noise through the soft top gets a bit of a pain after a while, and as it happened shipped a fair bit of water in the ‘lush’ conditions!

Luckily I do have the original aluminium hard top stashed away somewhere, so I’m thinking of fitting that for events like the RBRR in future.

Regards

Kevin

36 minutes ago, TRTOM2498 said:

Hi Kevin,

If you already have an A-type o/d gearbox, which would be correct for your car, (optional when new) it should be a 22% as standard.  If you currently have a non o/d car, and like using it, which I can see you do with the RBRR, then an A-type o/d (22% o/d) is worth every penny, and will transform the drive beyond all belief.

If you already have a 22% o/d, and want to reduce the revs further, you can get a 25% or even 28% o/d, by having it converted. ORS in Sheffield would be my suggestion of who to talk to in this regard.

 

If you have a standard engine, I would just stick with the 22%, should be more than sufficient.

Cheers.

My apologies I meant to say I do have the 22% standard overdrive which as you say is standard equip.
 

I suppose when it was mostly ‘A’ and ‘B’ roads back in the day, the gearing was about right, so that’s why I was considering an overdrive with a higher ratio for the straighter faster roads we encounter these days, both here and on the Continent. The only issue I know of is that it will virtually be on a par with some of the standard gearbox ratios at 28%. However, I wanted it to have longer legs on the top gear cruising speed if anything. I’ll have a chat with ORS as you say.

Thanks

Kevin

2 hours ago, Tim Bancroft said:

Blimey Kevin, very poor quality.

Would agree with that Tim..definitely not your finest Sheffield sprung steel is it.
 

More likely made in the GonnWong car parts factory somewhere in the Far East !

Kevin

Hi Triumphers

After a few months in err ‘dry’ storage finally found cause of engine noise and down on power which suddenly appeared on the Friday night of the RBRR and put us in some doubt of continuing. However, we decided to get very wet and press on!

Today, hooked the timing cover off and found a piece of chain tensioner floating around inside which explains the rattle.  I’m guessing this would’ve left the valve timing to go all over the place too hence down on power. Could’ve been a lot worse but crack on now and get it repaired and ready - it’s a promising start to Feb!

Picking up the cylinder head next week hopefully from Peter Burgess for valving and porting work so should be back in action soon. 

Anyone else fitted a 22% overdrive to these and is it worth it?

Thanks 

Kevin 

On 24/10/2023 at 18:38, Dannyb said:

I have a metallic rattle coming from offside rear suspension (Spit 1500). Got the back up on axle stands wheels off. First thing its done me a favour as I notice rear Flexible brake pipe is weeping. Back to the rattle. I noticed the offside inner U clamp around the rear sping is split in half so suspect this is the noise. Can you buy these clamps or do I have to make one. I'm thinking of rebuilding the spring or should I just replace. Spring is 20 years old.

Danny

 

Hi Danny
 

If no joy there are a number of companies out there on the net who recondition and reset existing road springs. You might be lucky and retain equivalence of ride height across the back but if not you could send both springs off for reconditioning and fit as a balanced pair.
 
Out of interest regarding your rear flexi-hose in particular , do you currently have your car MOT’d, as both the condition at the time, and potentially going forward, of the rear spring breakage and weeping brake pipe should have been red flagged upon inspection I would have thought?

Kevin

57 minutes ago, Clive said:

Definitely not.

The event is not a race or competitive in any way. To scutineer a car would imply otherwise. Club officials are not qualified to check cars (OK soem will be) but the club would not take any resonsibility for checking the cars. That is done by the owners and hopefully the MoT man. 

Plenty of new cars have horrendously bright headlights, it is not just a trait of some RBRR-ers. 

I agree new cars are a pain in the proverbial. They also undertake/ overtake, constantly change lanes behind AND in front you, and their lights.. arrrrgh!!! I certainly think all round improved vision is a must…including a dipping mirror! I’ve gone the TR6 mirror route for my 4a.

Kevin

4 hours ago, chris62 said:

Team 58 and Team 106 completed another RBRR.

Great fun, never stopped smiling even in the rain.

Our thanks to all those involved in putting on this great event, its very much appreciated by all the crews.

Look forward to the 2025 event, when I think I will take an umbrella.

Happy Motoring.

I would second that! Brilliantly organised and run by Tim, Nigel, Jason & co.

And don’t forget a Sou’wester next time!

Right, DEFINITELY ready now..I think anyway 🫢😆

On 29/09/2023 at 15:39, Tim Hunt said:

Really glad you got it sorted Kevin. A good watch out for some others but not me - I binned the mechanical fan and hub extension when I fitted a Kenlowe over 40 years ago. A side bonus is it makes a fan belt change a breeze. No need to jack the  engine up to give clearance between the hub extension and steering rack!

Best of luck for the RBRR.

Tim

Many thanks Tim. BIG sigh of relief there! I may well change to an electric fan as it possibly drags a few horses too.

I’ve just got around to finishing the crop of jobs I had on my list for the RBRR -and some..I’ve just finished fitting a rear screen heater from Holden. Fiddly, but hope it works.

I’ve wired in a 10 minute timer relay with a momentary switch. It sounds like the relay is coming on which is a good start, along with a period ‘jewel’ orange warning light… so looks very good, but I just hope that’s not the only part that works!

Usually get some condensation on the run so hopefully it will. I hope your ‘Smiths’ unit is still working.

Kevin

On 29/09/2023 at 14:03, glang said:

Ahhh Ive worked out its a Tr4 now so yes the fan is on the crank and with rubber bushes so the second part of my previous post applies.

You can even get poly bushes now for the fans and although expensive you know they arent going to fall apart in six months like many rubber components available these days....

That’s an answer - they were tightened when I rebuilt the engine, but maybe the rubber damper bushings aren’t quite the same quality as the originals (surprise surprise )! The TR4 and 4a ( maybe 5/6 too) have the fan running off the crankshaft hub, so being more of a direct drive it might be more susceptible to noise if it works loose.

2 hours ago, thescrapman said:

I would have thought there would be lock tabs on the fan bolts, certainly is on the 6-cal cars.

There was and they were locked over. Possible that the rubber bushings are perishing, causing the bolts to appear loose?

All now resolved as per my other post. Thanks everyone. 
 

Kevin

Today I decided on rocking the crank to and fro by hand using the original metal fan blades, just to see if there was any free play in relation to the rear of the crankshaft which might be causing the clattering noise coming in around 3000 rpm, suspecting a broken crank but which didn’t really stack up tbh as the oil pressure was good, but apparently these 4 pots have an appetite for crankshafts.
 

Rocking the engine, I noticed the fan assembly moving slightly on the hub, so somehow the 4 bolts retaining the fan had loosened over a period of time.  I was relieved to find tightening these another turn each resolved the issue and noise gone.
 

 Which makes me think the rubbers might have perished slightly maybe over the years and led to some free movement.  It sounded like a piston was just about to let go tbh,  so definitely worth checking out these bolts and others on the engine before the run and definitely before stripping it! 
 

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

23 minutes ago, Wendy Dawes said:

Maybe a video recording so everyone could hear the noise may help with suggestions of a diagnosis 

Thanks Wendy I’ll TRy that tomorrow.

22 minutes ago, thescrapman said:

Time to get the big screwdriver out, put it against your ear and then against the engine to listen and hopefully narrow down the source.

or just buy some earplugs 🙂

Thanks. Tomorrow I will try to narrow it down.
 

Hoping I don’t hear a very loud noise in the sump! 

Hi all

I’ve posted this in another section, but posting in here as well.

Today I decided to back flush the rad/engine and fill with fresh antifreeze, just to keep the temperature normal…hopefully. 
 

When warming the engine up afterwards, I noticed quite a loud ‘clattering’’ noise which comes in at about 3,000 RPM on a steady throttle up. This is with the car stationary so not under load. Oil pressure and temperature look normal and neither wildly fluctuate, so I’ve tentatively ruled out big ends or mains, for the moment, though still could be but I do hope not as I can’t  see I can take the engine out and rebuild it before next week!

I haven’t ruled out a load of other things like timing chain tensioner, cam followers etc. Does this engine have a ‘known’ weakness which might cause this? I have heard of crankshaft breakage 🤨. Your thoughts please! (If the crank is broke anyone got a spare 4a engine I could use for the event?).    Just a thought….

Thanks

Kevin

Hi all

Well, as I’m doing the RBRR this year, I’ve been doing all those jobs that wouldn’t normally get done, like Brake Master seal kit, new brake fluid, steering rack inner rack joint shim, tracking and wheel balancing. Today I decided to back flush the rad/engine and fill with fresh antifreeze, just to keep the temperature normal…hopefully. 
 

When warming the engine up afterwards, I noticed quite a loud ‘clattering’ noise which comes in at about 3,000 RPM. This is with the car stationary so not under load. Oil pressure and temperature look normal and neither wildly fluctuate, so I’ve tentatively ruled out big ends or mains, for the moment, though still could be but I do hope not as I can’t see I can take the engine out and rebuild it before next week!

I haven’t ruled out a load of other things like timing chain tensioner, cam followers etc. Does this engine have a ‘known’ weakness which might cause this? Your thoughts please!

Kevin

On 10/07/2023 at 19:41, daver clasper said:

Hi. Wondering if this usual after higher mileage?, and also acceptable?, as assume it won't alter the timing setting, as the play is taken up when engine running?.

If a problem, could the ends of the pin be peened, so spreading it out, to tighten it up in the dog?

Thanks, Dave

Hi Dave

As far as I know it’s a roll pin which holds the drive dog to the shaft. I’m not sure of the size of the pin, but Halfords do a box of roll pins, one of which should fit as they expand into position anyway. Failing that if the holes are worn you might be able to drill out and fit a slightly larger pin.

Although the asking price is quite high, it has provenance and is all factory original. How much would it cost to bring a car up to pristine condition such as this one?

Ideal 10 Countries car!

Kevin

Hi Tim

Yes that is with the standard Lucas DR3a two-speed motor.

It had previously slowed up prior to the new wheel boxes being fitted, but then I found the old wheel boxes were partially seized, especially the driver’s side. In fact  I was quite surprised that the rack wasn’t damaged by this as the motor was obviously shunting it against a fairly hefty resistance, but I re-used that also.

I also rectified the wiring configuration which previously meant I had no second (fastest) speed. If you look at the start of the video, the wiper blade on speed 1 does not quite touch the rubber in its down motion.

Only when we got into torrential rain on speed 2 did it touch the two extremes, which I’m quite happy with. The gear wheel btw is a standard 120 ‘ wheel. I believe the TR6 is 115 as standard. The only work I’ve done to the motor is to grease it and renew the phosphor-bronze bearing for the crank, which was elongated.

Did you finally fit a 14w motor or decide to revert to standard?

Kevin
 

Hi just a segment of footage in our TR4a going towards The Netherlands on day 5 of the 10 Countries Run.
 

The rain comes in and up very quickly up to storm force. I’m glad I fixed the two speed wipers!

Kevin