carboy0

That sounds brilliant to me, doable in a two man team, rather than the three we ran in the RBRR.

Thanks mikeyb, does the start and finish vary or are they always the same locations?

Chriss - having completed this year’s RBRR, we are thinking about other events particularly the C2C.  I know nothing about it other than the title means Coast to Coast.  Is there a link to a page describing the event please?  I don’t even know where it goes from and to!

Thanks in advance.

Need to think about buying another Triumph, is it best as a two or three person team?

On the subject of our carbon foot-print, I didn’t look into it, but if the entry fee had included a carbon off-set charge, I would have paid it.

This was my 2nd RBRR, after a DNF in 2018 in my Stag, this time we bought a big Trummy in November 2018 and progressively knocked her into shape, adding reliability with new parts and carrying the previously fitted parts as spares.  We put 500 miles on the car in one day to see what would break and what we could improve.  On the run, we carried spare ignition parts, plugs, way too much oil and (perhaps understandably) lots of E5 fuel - none of which was used.

I found the organisation spot-on, the control timings seemed quite generous on occasion, but none the worse for that.

Niggles - headlights.  As has already been mentioned, we were blinded by several following cars and we had no place to let them past, in fact one was content to follow our lead even when passing was possible.  We anticipated that we would be rear end heavy and fitted 2500 Estate rear springs in advance, mainly to carry the load, but the added bonus meant that our own H4/H1 Osram halogen eyeball burner headlights were ‘kosher’.

On the point of ‘snowflake’ entrants.  I didn’t see anyone who was unprepared to work on their car, however I was astounded by the dearth of sensible tool-kits.  I lent out imperial spanners, sockets even a hammer to three different teams, so they could work on their cars.  One car only had metric socket set of the sort that you buy in filling stations - max 19mm.

We were one of the teams that stayed on the main road at Carter Bar.  We got the RallyApp thingy’s proximity warning beeps and then the confirmation beep/message popped up, saying that we had been through the Control.  We were prepared to double back, but it wasn’t necessary.

Overall, IMHO very little needs changing.  Any attempt to require a driver or a team to ‘prove’ one’s ability in advance should be strongly challenged.  As a newbie in 2018, if there had been proscribed qualification events to enter the RBRR.  Then I wouldn’t have bothered joining CT at all and would have gone on to enter some other longer distance event in a non-Triumph.

Thanks Andy - waiting on a decision from our undecided team member.

We may have one of our team Rusty Custard (Team 98) stand down, no decision from them yet, but likely.  We would still like to go three up rather than two, so are likely to need a willing participant.  What’s the process for changing driver details please.

Also in the same vein is anyone aware of someone looking for a drive?

Thanks Tim

As per the title, apart from the comment in the Club Torque article “The entry fee per person has yet to be finalised” I haven’t seen any entry costs anywhere - have I missed them?

Quoted from iggy-

“I tried to  work out a way to fit mesh on my mk2 without drilling holes in the front valance but  couldn’t”.

That’s my dilemma in a nutshell. How to fix the mesh without putting screw holes through the valence.

I am looking at whether to run bumperless in Rusty Custard, the car looks quite good without the bumper, but the great big holes in the front valence, suggest that some mesh of some kind should be fitted for safety and aesthetic reasons. There’s a straight run for stones and road debris into the radiator matrix.

If anyone has fitted mesh previously, two questions, what did you use and how did you secure it?

Thanks Paul

I posted the same question on the Stag Owners Club forum and using the following studs was suggested.  Rather than drill out the trailing arm for 5/16 unf helicoil, this company has made HT steel studs with 3/8 UNC on one end 5/16 on the other end.  It bypasses the need for the helicoil,you just drill and tap for 3/8 UNC and screw in direct.

https://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/cats.asp?cID=3&carID=4&page=STAG+3%2F8+UNC+HUB+STUD

Not cheap but a good solution.

Tony not really, UNF thread is too fine for aluminium, it’s always likely to pull through the body of the suspension arm.

UNC or Metric coarse are the normally the preferred engineering option for aluminium thread holes.  Helicoiling in UNF, will just mean pulling a bigger hole in the aluminium next time.

I started to replace the offside drive shaft and in the process of removal managed to strip two of the studs.  I can helicoil the holes quite easily.  I plan to go for 5/16” UNC studs in the aluminium trailing arm with 5/16” unf stud ends for the hub.  This is rather than the standard 5/16” unf at both ends on the standard TD 812 Triumph studs.

Does anyone have a part number and source for a suitable stud with combined unc/unf 5/16” studs, that are the right length?

Thanks in advance.

Quoted from cliftyhanger-

Bad news on any engine.

Leave as is, really all they do is flood the rockers with oil, often causing excessive oil use. And they rob the crank of a bit of oil too.

Thanks guys, confirms my thoughts, one less thing to buy and fit..

I have seen adverts for an auxiliary oil feed for the rockers.  How useful are they for a car intended for 2020 RBRR?  Part of me says that it could be useful on a balls out race/rally car, but overkill on a road car, assuming that the oil pump is in good order and the rocker shaft and rockers are unworn.

Any views or opinions appreciated.

Quick question that I wasn't sure where to post, somewhere I read the amount that Club Triumph has raised for charity since the RBRR inception in 1966, but I can't locate it now, can anyone advise please?  Either the amount (preferable) or where I can find the amount.

Quoted from Dannyb-

Can't Remember what switch I used. I did post on the forum but all my old post like others have found they are no longer available.

It’s OK, Ohave found a range of switches all M14 x 1.5.

That’s a clever bit of kit, but I’m put off by the temperature probe, which looks like it needs inserting into the top hose (unless it’s a contact only unit).

Danny, that’s the kiddy!  Exactly what I want to do.  I too will run the standard fan and use this for backup for the really hot days.  What switch did you use (what car is it from), I can see that it’s a single pole and earths through the engine?

I have used a temp switch on another classic for about 10 years with no problem.  Most classic engines run at their optimum at around 90 degrees C.  So I selected a switch that comes on between 95-100 degrees and off at about 5 degrees above the thermostat opening point.

From my experience most users of the Kenlow or Revotec adjustable switches, play about until they find a happy setting for them and then leave them alone - the downside of these is that the on and the off temp is the same.  Using a modern switch that comes on at one temperature and off at a lower temperature gives more ‘insurance’ against boiling up.  A bit of research first will mean no need to play around with the temp at all.

Newbie question

My T 2000 has an old Kenlow fan fitted, but partially disconnected.  I have never been a fan of the Kenlow ‘sensor up the top hose’ way of measuring temperature and although using a modern temperature switch in a top hose adaptor is my fall back position (a la Revotec), I was wondering whether anyone has used one of these thermostat housings with the temperature gauge sensor port in, and then fitted rad fan temp switch in that?

If yes, how did it work out?  I know that I’ll need an adaptor to fit a modern metric threaded switch, I guess my real question is whether the temperature at the back of the thermostat is really any different from the temperature at the radiator inlet - would it make a difference to the temperature setting in the fan switch?

Second question - where can I find a thermostat housing with the temp sensor port - I can’t find them listed on any of the regular Triumph parts websites?

Thanks Matt, that’s really useful.

Thanks Matt, that’s really useful.

Thanks Matt,

When you say say you had BDM needles machined, what was done exactly and who did them?