RichC69

Ok thanks and is the estate roof available separately please? I'm based in Bham so would need to collect on a weekend if that's ok?

I'm interested in the estate roof, what condition are the rear pillars in please, are they good enough to repair or take a pattern from?

Wanted Herald Estate roof with good lower rear roof pillars or just the lower pillars to repair our rusty roof.

On 06/04/2021 at 14:37, Darren Sharp said:

Just in case anyone wonders how to wire a pre engaged starter to mate with Spitfire wiring it’s all quite simple . The pre engaged starter has its Solenoid mounted on top off the motor whereas all spitfires have inertia type starters and the solenoid is remotely mounted on the bulkhead. The Bulkhead mounted Solenoid is a hub for many other functions but it is easily bypassed for starting by removing the starter wire (red and white) from the ignition switch . This is extended and routed to the bottom terminal on the pre engaged unit. A second wire goes from the pre engaged starter direct to the negative terminal of the coil . Then the big thick wire is detached from the old solenoid bottom terminal and Siamese’d with the top terminal on the old solenoid (this goes direct to the + terminal on the battery) you could cut out the old solenoid altogether but it looks neat and prevents the need to buy new leads . One top tip is the fitting of a discarnect device . This little gem saves a lot of hassle removing the battery connection to work on car electrical’s . I fitted it last year as a solution to a constant battery draining issue on this car. This has now been resolved with the fitting of a new alternator. The diode pack in the old unit had failed meaning it constantly drained the battery . A hard one to diagnose without proper testing gear (and the knowledge) if someone can explain why it does this it might be very useful 

cheers all 

Regarding the diode pack and alternator,  it is there to ensure that dc power only flows into the battery when the engine is running.  When it fails power can  flow from the battery back through the alternator to ground,  discharging the battery.  On old Dynamo systems the cut out serves the same purpose as without it the Dynamo would run as a motor when the engine is off,  but as it’s held still by the drive belt,  the windings will get hot and flatten the battery or melt the wiring...

He’s very keen to learn and loves working on the Herald,  otherwise know as GCSE revision avoidance 🙂. He’s already better at MIG and TIG welding than me (not hard mind you!)...

Thanks Tim,  Yes it’s got a column switch which was wired directly to the solenoid and ign live.  I will be running it via a new od relay and the inhibitor switch with an inline fuse.

I didn’t realise this thread was connected to preparation for the RBRR,  were not signed up for that at the moment.  All of this will be done for the end of May when we’re hopefully taking the car to Goodwood for the Restomod weekender meeting.  My son is very keen to learn.

So far with my supervision he’s rebuilt the Dynamo, overhauled the control box, changed the engine mountings, rewired the heater fan, welded up the n/s front footwell, assembled a new s/s exhaust system with mandrel bends and pipe from fabco, upgraded the front brakes with type 14 calipers, alloy hubs, new wheel bearings and a new master cylinder.

Our ‘67 Herald 1200 Estate is a a rolling restoration project that My 15 year old son and I are working on.  He wants to go into classic car restoration or motorsport engineering as a career,  so this is a learning platform for him.

Jobs in progress at the moment:

Gearbox removed for clutch replacement (noisy release bearing) and replacement of gearbox gaskets and seals.  The box looks to be in good shape otherwise.

Make up a new loom for the overdrive to incorporate the inhibitor switch and new relay,  had been fitted without either in circuit.

Rear crank oil seal, sump gasket, timing cover gasket and timing chain / tensioner and front crank seal.

Carbs removed for overhaul, rear hs2 developed a leak after fuel pump rebuilt.

New manifold gasket, weld small strange hole in side of extractor manifold previously covered by a jubilee clip!...

Fuel line replacement and rerouting to original spec,  the float lids have been put on opposite and fuel pipe zig zags across the top of the twin SU’s - not ideal.

Replace diff mounts and gearbox mounting.

Fit new polythene gearbox tunnel.

Refurb rear seat base - its lost most of it padding and is like a medieval torture device to sit on !

Other plans:

Fit new N/s A pillar drip channel and deal with corrosion in pillar.

Bonnet front corner repairs and new D plates

Fabricate and weld in repair section to n/s rear pillar.

Fit repair panels to both lower door skins.

Deal with terrible paint job (peeling a flaking off).

Refurb rear spring, fit lowering block

Fit solid rack mounts.

Fettle fibreglass valances to fit better.

Should keep us busy for a while...