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Jonny-Jimbo

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Posts posted by Jonny-Jimbo

  1. It's all to do with sound waves, in quarter, half, 3/4 and full form in terms of the volume. Some of the attenuation works by the exhaust pipe expanding into a larger volume causing the gas flow, and sound waves to 'stall' upon entry, other designs use baffles to reflect the sounds, but these are usually more restrictive.
    As a general rule an oversized pipe from optimum will give the sounds more 'bellow' and an undersized pipe will tend to cut out the lower frequencies...

    Exhaust design isn't witchcraft, it's just a case of fluid dynamics (treat air as a fluid and that may help the thinking a bit)...

    At the very top end of the exhaust spectrum, it's good to weld a high temperature resistant spike in the middle of the collector as this get's very hot, and then heats the gas as it passes through the collector, thus accelerating it and helping scavenge the cylinders even more.

  2. The two little end pieces should be held in with a small screw underneath, but the main long trim is just pushed on with clips - it will take some persuasion to come off though - either use a proper trim lever or a flat screwdriver with masking tape wrapped round it to help protect the paint / trim.

  3. I wouldn't recommend sanding an engine - it should be done properly really and skim the engine. Check piston protrusion, and if needs be, deck the pistons down a touch too.

  4. AJ and I have now changed our entry - the MX5 needed too much work to prepare for the event, so I decided I could only do one thing... and buy another car!!

    Nothing fancy in the slightest, but a nice(? little Citroen AX GT that's been used for road rallying, and is only one step away from being a stage rally car (just needs log booking really).


  5. Quoted from 1968Vitesse25


    The laws of engineering applies exactly the same to a 1907 De Dion as a 2017 Ferrarri..


    But the actual designs, technology, manufacturing etc have all changed.

  6. Comparing a Triumph to a modern car is a bit like chalk and cheese, or apples and oranges etc.

    If you're going to fit an oil cooler, the normal position is in front of the radiator - just have a look at where you can install it easily. Maybe mount it vertically on the passenger side of the radiator, through the metal plate that supports said radiator?

    Consider fitting an oil thermostat too, so it only cools the oil when needed. Maybe check the oil is actually getting hot too?

  7. Quoted from JohnD
    JJ,
    was that the EBC recommendations on 'bedding in'?
    I'm surprised they need such delay.  Does seem almost unsafe that new pads are not fully effective for 200 miles or more!
    Most pads can be done immediately, by that process or similar.  It's not a physical thing, conforming their faces to the shape of the disc.   The objective is to condition the pads by heating them to the highest temp they will face, without fading them.  

    John


    Yes John, that is lifted directly from the EBC website on bedding in procedure for their pads.

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