Dave Clasper

Hi Ben. If Rob is not buying this?, then I am interested. I live in bristol, just off the M32.

Just checking, that it will fit any Mk 1 Vitesse?.

Also, if still for sale, are you able to give a price your happy with(I don't feel that comfortable giving offers to club members, for some reason)

Thanks, Dave

I may have interrupted a bit Glang, as your maybe giving "one step at a time" advice (which is good) 

All relevant earth and supply connections clean/good condition.

There is info in most manuals about checking the various aspects of the charging system.

One thing I did find with this, was (if memory serves), when checking dynamo voltage direct from dynamo, it should be giving out about 13v(this is from memory so maybe not exact) when the car is at around 1000rmp(again this from memory), according to the manual.

My original dynamo was only giving out around 6v, so thought it must be faulty. Tried two others and similar v readings!.

in the end it was the control box that had failed!.

Quite a lengthy thread I started with my problems around this, maybe about a year ago?

Good luck, Dave

After a bit of basic/cheap sorting, never had any probs with Stroms on my car in 9 years, 

1 hour ago, Ed H said:

In my book, those wouldn't be from a reputable maker.

Hi. Would love info for any reputable makers, and where these are available for a Vitesse, please

Dave

1 hour ago, glang said:

then the overflow pipe should stay full pretty much at all times from now on👍

Mine always has a 2/3" gap of air about 1/3 down. Never overheats, so ok I guess?

On 05/11/2022 at 19:21, Ed H said:

Any reputable maker of seals for braking systems would be crazy to use any rubber compound not on that list.

Well, there seems evidence out there (and my personal experience), that a lot of remanufactured hydraulic seals for our classics aren't up to spec and fail early, whatever fluid your using.

On 05/10/2022 at 21:31, Clive said:

Rock at 6/12 can mean wear in the stub axle. A wise garage man told me about that, and the need to compare with 3/9 position.

Will have to compare, as I think there's a very slight lip on the bottom of axle, where the bearing runs, though as long as not too much play at 12/6 and some at 3/9, then ok I guess?.

It's been like that since I had car 20,000 miles ago, and not got noticeably worse?. I thought it may have worn more, as any case hardening on stub would not exist now, if it was worn a bit?

I seem to remember, someone did the maths on acceptable/tolerance of max gap of a few thou at bearing, related to 4mm at tyre edge? 

On 14/09/2022 at 19:16, frenchiemk2 said:

24h freezer for 4 injectors + thermic shock.

What is that process?, please.

ignore above question, as saw your explanation further on!.

Good luck with firing her up, hopefully soon!

23 hours ago, glang said:

Dont forget theres got to be an oil flow from the bearing to cool it so you need a good oil pump plus sufficient clearance for the oil to get out at the correct flow rate....

That's interesting Glang, never thought of that. So in theory if you just changed the bearings, thinking that's a good thing, if your pump not doing it's thing, then maybe not good?. I'm probably over thinking this anyway?

I think I'll just leave alone with my start up clatter (even some noise after running, if left only a couple of hours), though I do crank over without choke whatever situation, until oil light goes out to avoid this nowadays.

Apart from the oil pressure gauge dropping a bit (almost kind of overnight !) a few years ago, it has remained pretty constant, so nothing drastic happening, I guess.  

On 03/09/2022 at 11:49, RobPearce said:

I've done a compression test (all about equal between 125 and 140)

I've read that no more than 5 (also some have said 10) between any cylinders. I'm confused by your figures, being "about equal", Rob?

20 hours ago, glang said:

My Vitesse manual which has the same bearings dimensions says big end clearance should be between 1 and 2.7 thou.

Wow, certainly not an expert on this, though, 2.7 thou, seems a lot.

No wonder there can be start up rattle/knock and it's not necessarily a problem I understand?

On 20/08/2022 at 12:43, David Collingbourne said:

So again, thanks all, it was indeed a learning process and I think my late-pa (who completely re-furbished the car) would have been proud that I avoided a garage.

 

Well done. Especially as often garages these days, from my thankfully, very low experience, seem crap, and have caused more problems.

I'm sure there must be some good ones? 

I thought the kits were still cheaper than a new pump?.

I think the kits may be generic?. For example I think a land Rover one has the same internal replacement parts?. I was thinking of buying a kit as a spare and cheapest was about £11.00 a few months ago I think.

land Rover/Mini/MG stuff, is often cheaper than Triumph and are sometimes the same parts. I guess more is produced?.

Saying that, maybe we should support the Triumph suppliers anyway, unless were on a very tight budget.

Dave

Hi. Just out of interest, has anyone ever had had engine "hunting" (up to 2000 rpm) after a hot day park up, or slow traffic on hot days.

Ta, Dave

My understanding is that many (hopefully not all?) repro diaphragms are a lot thicker than original and this is the main issue?.

Maybe worth communicating with suppliers about this.

As Rob says Burlen is probably a good bet, there are a few other more specialist carb part suppliers I think, though can't remember them offhand,

8 hours ago, Antonnick said:

The clip that was not seated properly had come off of course and is lying on the road somewhere. 

8 hours ago, Antonnick said:

One of the needle bearings in a cup had misplaced itself preventing the cup being fully home

These issues seem very common, any tips on preventing them?, as don't appear to be obviously ,fitted incorrectly, when folk have done them.

On 29/05/2022 at 16:10, glang said:

glue the split with superglue

I've heard superglue is really effective with rubber ?

Blue, though only change every five years, still clean as a whistle and passes the test for "anti freezing".

Any more info? would be great, thanks

Dave

Hi. Just to take off the tiny pip and shine up a bit, is this a no no, as some info suggests?.

Thanks, Dave 

Thanks guys

That's useful, thanks.

This is the P seal that is glued on?

This would be for my Vitesse, though maybe simular principle?.

My current ones (that are unstuck and flapping about) only go down as far as the the top hinge (from memory?).

Better if they go down to the bottom of the door aperture?.

Thanks, Dave 

Did it get sorted Glang?

Just wondering about the warnings about amp meters being potentially dangerous, due to amount of cable load going to and from the gauge.

I assume this same load would be going through the original cable/s anyway?.

Is it more about the A.M cables must be fitted properly/safely? 

Thanks folks, it's an OD box so quite heavy as well.

Info now jotted down in W S manual