iani

Google says 1 1/8", I think I use a 28mm socket but can't check right now.

Ian

Facebook Marketplace has a lot of workshops/garages for rent, I've been looking for a while but no luck in my area.

12 hours ago, pete jackson said:

You are a sweetheart, I have been in touch with Fitchetts and they don't list them. 

I am assuming the one mentioned is a MK2 x

The eBay ad says Mk1, why don’t you look for the ad? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115085748871?itmmeta=01HPKD0HQPSY8ZEW5GACG6XGE9&hash=item1acba52a87:g:2ogAAOSwh2lhiR45&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8LFZMnFWGJ5brt4fRCetZLUMmMzk6ydVAtRyu8xzyKhZ5OIukqMfwfhiMQaMe%2FsJwOhxzj7CAqQ8vZlf9BUAz5NARwC69Khh9yDfROmFa%2BAgsmpC7luMR%2FaxmhNyNBtKNqFuLIkBl1w5cw2hOC1%2Fe3QuFECFNX5rGljeQ%2BdMnMHRLwSavJ4f7uwkS6cebf%2F7LydRcCbTBRV9U5NZN0pE9h1%2B90%2BWvqcG0ULSgtSufWmSKQmIQATuhzdOkyIcM4lYWDnST4klxRZ3o0hsXqI79AR4tjP3whm5uEUB%2FFtl8XTvBNjQioV5A2oce%2Bn1cbGJNA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4icgu20Yw

Fitchetts have one on eBay now.

3 hours ago, Geoff Tipping said:

SPITFIRE 1500,

Strip out interior , and rebuild /recover/repair both seats. Strip dash, remove horrid black paint on dials to expose perfect chrome, polish bezels and wood etc. sound proof, re colour vinyl, inc recovering the internal wheel arches, clean original carpet, de fur and re assemble. Issues; removing centre brace above transmission is a pain in the A, my seatbelt warning light is now permanently on, who can put the black spacers on the window winder back on !!   

Replacing the winder is a lot easier if you have some clamping scissors for the pin https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/scissors/1369853?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_PMAX_RS+PRO-_--_-1369853&matchtype=&&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAqNSsBhAvEiwAn_tmxSANJTFhkfyyWtuf_-_n_7cLHyaY79-WF8S22LCAHwcsOicp8-8itRoCI1UQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

James Godfrey-Dunne fitted new seals to both my Mk1 & Mk2 cars, he gets his seals from Canley Classics next door, they use COH Baines.

Mk1 2.5PI Estate (Homage)

Minor progress on NY day, new reversing light loom fitted to gearbox & OD wiring connected, I had to make up a small extension loom to reach the switch wire, J-type OD loom & A-type column switch, so non standard configuration. I then managed to drill the holes for my new throttle pedal, unfortunately I couldn't fit it due to needing another pair of hands, I'm getting tantalisingly close to being able to drive this car, hopefully the next two weeks should see it coming out of the garage.

Mk1 2.5PI Estate (Homage)

Rain prevented my taking the GT6 out today, I decided to wire up the AFR gauge, video shows reading 1 minute after starting the car & choke fully off, not too bad given no tuning performed yet. I have also removed the Mk1 2000 throttle pedal, I have a Mk2 cable pedal to fit, no access until I get the car out of the garage though. I also ran in another wire for the 2 speed wiper motor and fitted the 2 speed switch, it works, another win. I also fitted an oil pressure gauge and made up a new reverse light switch loom, I thought the one on the 'box was sound but a section of the wire fell off, best to replace with new.

Mk1 2.5 PI Estate (homage)

After a few stressful days, with a lot of encouragement from various CT members, tempered by my inability to follow instructions properly, I have been struggling to get the car to fire. The injectors I was using were reconditioned ones, but they had been sat of a shelf for several years, I swapped them all out for a fresh reconditioned set, still no luck. The fuel pump that had been checked over by a specialist proved incapable of producing more than 100psi and frequently reduced to 0-40 psi, useless if the system was to work. Martin Giles (t/a Fred Milturn) kindly swapped my pump for a used one he had, it produces 120psi and a constant 105psi once the PRV was set, still no firing.

Suspecting that the newly reconditioned MU might be faulty, Martin drove over to help me remove it and he would take it back to KMI, with Martin's assistance we discovered that the dizzy was 180 out, entirely as a result of the aforementioned inability to follow instructions! Once we'd moved the plug leads round, the car fired up fine. Tomorrow's task is to remove the dizzy & MU, reposition the drive gear and refit everything in the correct orientation. 

I'd like to thank Martin Giles for his assistance, he drove half way to meet me to hand over a set of recon injectors, again to swap a fuel pump and finally drove to my house to collect a suspected faulty MU. This is customer service way beyond the norm these days, I have bought several items from Martin over the last few years and he has always been a pleasure to deal with.

Ian

1 hour ago, GT64fun said:

Good luck with that!

You haven't seen how ropey the carpet is!

Triumph 2.5 PI Estate (Homage)

The light at the end of the tunnel is getting a bit brighter:

123 dizzy timing set, fuel pump wiring run in loosely, will get it under the carpet when I can move the car outside. Fuel lines all connected, still need securing but all connections in place. Awaiting tank to filler cap hose to arrive, hopefully tomorrow, need throttle cable, will hopefully have that this week, aiming for first fire either Xmas Eve or Xmas Day, that will be a great present.

43 minutes ago, JohnD said:

Iani,

Please keep up the reports!

Just an idea, from my own conversion on my Vitesse to Pi.  I realise that mine was for an extreme purpose, motorsport, but I soon  realised that Triumph had made inadequate provision for fuel slosh in a half empty tank.     Unlike carburettors, that will exclude air bubbles that get into the fuel feed in the float chamber, Pi has no such provision.   The volume of each squirt from the injectors is tiny, and even a small bubble will mean that only air comes out!  

This usually happens just as you put your foot down as you exit a corner, the engine dies.   If you keep your right foot down and left foot up, then  it will usually restart as inertia keeps the car going, the air is expelled and fuelling returns, but it's a frightening experience.    You must judge if your driving style and intended use makes this likely, but I found that a swirl pot for the fuel with a lifter pump to keep it filled abolished this effect.

 

 

I used to run Lucas PI on my TR6 John, so used to the tank foibles, I tend to keep a decent level in the tank to avoid issues. I am currently unable to fit the spare wheel in the well, if I can't fix that issue then I might put a swirl pot in with a lift pump as I'll have plenty of room for it, would then just keep spare in the load area.

MK1 PI Estate (homage)

I took today off to crack on with the PI conversion on the Estate:

Fuel supply & return lines now run out, still need securing however.

Later fuel tank painted & fitted

CAV Filter housing mounted & diaphragm PRV fitted, all plumbed in

Exhaust loosely mounted front to rear. 

A good day's progress, I will look at the electrics tomorrow, in principle I could try to fire it up this weekend but I have a schedule and I think it's best to stick with it, there are known gremlins, the PAS pipes are leaking, need to put PTFE tape on the fittings.

Looking very good Richard, putting my efforts on the Estate to shame, I look forward to seeing yours on the road. 

Peter Heary did the dash in my GT6, I was very pleased with it, my TR6 one was from Classical Dash, an equally good job.

Triumph Mk1 Estate (2.5PI homage)

Yet another plate welded on to fix a few small holes in the boot floor area. Fuel tank pin prick repair hadn't worked, tried again with another compound, that didn't work either, even with the use of heat gun to warm the area & material up nicely, I have another tank inbound from Lloyd Reed, hopefully that will sort the issue. I need to cut the later tank flange down slightly to get it to fit, luckily there is around 1" of flange and I only need to remove half of it along one edge. The CW 6-3-1 exhaust manifold fouls on the PAS pipework, a spot of persuasion created a bit of clearance, not a lot though, I am concerned that the fluid might boil. The long radiator hose/pipe/hose from the bottom up to the water pump housing is now fitted & runs clear of the pump, this was much easier with assistance (thanks Calvin Packwood). I then did a test fit of the exhaust system. I think I know how it goes together now, will take short front link pipe to have sensor bung welded in this week and fit the exhaust properly next weekend. The fuel pump is now fitted, some CAV filter fittings inbound, will fit that once tank is in situ, then mount diaphragm PRV wherever makes sense.

Today I did....absolutely nothing, it feels like this conversion project has taken months, it has certainly consumed all my free time for too long, sometimes you just need to take a break, I'll get back to it next weekend, hopefully it will be less damp & grotty.

39 minutes ago, shenderson said:

According to Rimmers website, Stag antiroll bar is different (different part number).  Rimmers also do a mounting kit, but you would also need to replace the drag links for the type with antiroll bar attachment points (not included in the kit).

Chris Witor sells parts to fit Stag ARB to 2000, here's the link https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CADB20Z-2K

An unused pair of rollover hoops, bought from TRGB but never fitted, slight marks from storage, no fittings supplied. Pic shows TRGB image. £335 new, I will take £140, collection only from Corby, Northants.

Ian

Pic source - https://www.trgb.co.uk/products/hooped-roll-bars-tr4-tr6?_pos=2&_sid=464ebfeca&_ss=r&variant=39289353353

Sold.

Spin-on filter adaptor for 6 cyl, non-oil cooler, £50 +£5 postage, UK only, can be collected Corby, Northants.

Ian

Triumph Mk1 Estate (2.5PI homage)

Friday: I was concerned at how tight the engine was to turn, the rocker adjustment screws were backed right out to fit too, clearly the head has been skimmed & the rods were too long. I am using standard 8.11" rods, Revington appear to have discontinued the 7.95" they used to offer, that left pedestal shims, I collected a set from Mark Field and stripped the rockers off again, fitted the shims, refitted the rockers and adjusted, the engine rotates much happier and the rocker adjustment is normal. I then fitted the metering unit, I had never done one before and was concerned about screwing it up, my MU is a KMI recon, they tell you NOT to remove No6 port, simply to line up marks on the input shaft, I did this and, having set the engine to TDC with No1 on its firing stroke the slots looked to line up, the MU went on without any issue, I will have to wait to see if it's ok.

Saturday: I thought the trial fitting of the manifolds had gone rather too smoothly, when I came to bolt them up I discovered that the exhaust manifold fouls two of the lower row of mounting studs. This is the row that has the acorn clamps across the exhaust & inlet manifold flanges. I realised that I had to fit two of the acorn clamps before pushing the exhaust manifold home, this meant that two of the throttle bodies were now fouling on the clamps when I tried to fit them. Long story short, some grinding wheel action on the acorn clamps resolved the issue, all fastenings now done up. 

GT6 Mk1

Oil & filter change, a horribly messy job, the  poor clearance of the spin on filter doesn't help here, done for another few months.

Triumph Mk1 Estate (2.5PI homage)

Yesterday I fitted the cylinder head & trial fitted the manifolds, I was expecting to have to do some fettling due to the 6-3-1 exhaust manifold & the PAS pipework but was pleasantly surprised to find it all went on ok, I couldn't button it all up as I didn't have the TB studs to hand, I will sort this out during the coming week.

Today I fitted the rocker shaft & adjusted the tappets, then I moved to the rear of the car and removed the fuel tank. With my car being a PFL model, it had a smaller tank than the later estates, I wanted to fit the later tank. In order to get the larger tank in, I had to remove the O/S floor support bar, this will be replaced by a removable bar, I also had to remove the inboard support bracket, this will be replaced by another bracket further along the axle tunnel. Unfortunately my limited testing of this tank didn't spot a slight weep, I will have to remove it and get the tank repaired, at least I have proved that it is a viable solution, the spare tyre fits fine and won't interfere with the Lucas Pump, PRV or filter (latter isn't fitted in pic, will be mounted higher up)

15 hours ago, Rutty said:

At the risk of committing heresy and promoting a rival club It might be worth you talking to Pete James insurance. He is offering some very good deals to members of TSSC at the moment. I saved £45 by off my premium by using my TSSC membership instead of my CT membership. I also got my wife put back on at no extra cost despite an own fault accident last year.

I am sure someone said he is offering preferential rates to younger drivers especially if a parent is the lead driver on the policy.

I'm with PJ and am a TSSC member, they wouldn't let me add my 17yo on my insurance at any price.

On 15/06/2021 at 09:38, JohnD said:

I don't thnk that you will get that much improvement from any reasonable cam.

But a 2.5L engine is a revelation in terms of mid range torque, even without any mods.  Do that and you understand why Triumph never did it, in a car half a tonne lighter than  the TR6!  And it's easy to fit to the GT6, just use the OE sump and rear engne plate, and bash two grooves in the shallow floor of the sump to clear the Nos. 1 and 2 big ends.

John

I know this is an aged post, but in the interest of keeping the information current - if you use Maxpeeding con rods there is no need to dent the sump to fit a 2.5 unit to a GT6 sump, they clear just fine.

18 hours ago, Luke Valvona said:

Hi all,

looking to fit an electric pump to my gt6, (unless I’m convinced otherwise….), has anyone done this already who could offer some guidance? 
 

questions I currently have are:

were to fit the pump (I’m looking at as close as possible to the tank)

did you fit a pressure regulator (I do have one to hand)

did you wire it into the ignition or a separate switch?

did you install a cut off? In case of an accident etc? 
 

cheers 

I run a facet red top pump, it is mounted on the chassis rail inboard of the N/S/R wheel.

I have a FPR mounted in the engine bay, I also have an electronic fuel pressure gauge

I use an ignition switched relay delivering power to the pum

I do have an inhibitor switch, a 3 wire unit.

Ian