chunky63

Hi Tim,

I sold the GT6 in April 21, now bought a mk1 2000.

Just sent you an email 🙂

Hi Tim

I can assist at Lands End or Okehampton.

I marshalled at Okehampton 2016 and Lands End 2018

Kind regards

Jon

I've bought a pair of heated leather mk2.5 MX5 seats to fit into my GT6. I took the lead from this online video...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlbF6a0vkxw

...with the amalgamation of the GT6 frames and MX5 frame/foams it should all come together quite nicely.

I plan on retrimming the centre panels with perforated vinyl from Woolies to make them look a bit like GT6 seats

https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/109/embossed

Famous last words :-)

Quoted from stevesspit16

Whoops, forgot to mention in my edit, Offset is almost always the biggest factor in wheel fitment on our cars.

Thanks,

Photo was a bit blurred when trying to read the size etc hence the question.

In the old days of the early 1980's we would fit 165/70/13 tyres to that size of rim and have no problems at all with rubbing.
Today though many favour the 175/70/13, but I've no experience of that size to comment on its suitability.

I had Wolfrace 6J on the front and 7J on the rear of my GT6 Mk2. Steering was heavy, arches on the rear had to be flared but it stuck to the road very nicely indeed. However I have now gone back to the standard 4-1/2J steels and 155/80/13 tyres and I love the feel and handling.

Anything over standard 155/80/13 on the front will give you heavy steering so in my opinion stick with 165. Others will be along soon to comment further

Hi Ludwig,

What is the rim size and offset?

Please can anyone suggest a source for the rotoflex joint for my mk2. This is just a stop gap to keep the old girl mobile as long term I will fit a CV conversion.

They appear on several websites so just wondering:-

Where they are made?
Are they all the same manufacturer
Anyone any issues or experience with these low cost joints?
Prices are around £35 to £50 each

Thanks all

I have looked into this a little and found that most if not all modern seats are too high in the seat base without modification.

I plan to buy some mk3 MX5 seats to build a pair of hybrid seats using my GT6 frames. That way you get the high back and low base. The mk3 seats also have a more retro shape and a seat belt guide built into them.

Another option I looked into was using seats from a Caterham, Morgan, Porsche 914 or Smart roadser/coupe.
The GT6 is tight on space to accommodate an unmodified seat. As like me you are over 6ft then you need a low seat base to still see through the windscreen.

There are threads on here about this subject in more detail.

If memory serves me right its 1/4 UNF. not sure of the length and if the head is square rather than hex.

https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mki/ii-door-assembly

You might also try looking at MG parts (don't tell anyone though !) as the Midget and MGB have very similar setup.

There is also the mod needed to the floor pan to clear the speedo angle drive and access to the propshaft bolts. The cover plate also needed, see item 28

https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mki/ii-d-type-overdrive

Many thanks everyone for your advice. I'll start the hunt soon but now got a few other niggling issues to resolve first.

The cold has got to the charging circuit and the ignition light is now permanently on, oh the joys of classic car ownership

Hi All,

My rotoflex joints are on their last legs so I've decided to go for the CV conversion. Any help sourcing a Canley kit would be much appreciated. Thanks

Very nice work Hazen, as always 🙂

Top cubby tray was probably a left over from the Herald where its easy to store your flat cap and cigars

I shared the marshalling at Okehampton and discussed tiredness with lots if the teams.

May i make a suggestion to include another check point in the tiring stretches. In between WZL and Okehampton its a rather tedious M5-A30 journey in the middle of the night, a brief stop at Exeter services might help. There might be other places as well.

Cheers
Jon

Note in the picture of the G15 Super S that the engine lid is different than a standard G15. The S is a lid where as the standard is the whole rear end.

The S also had a VW T1 engine+transaxle so could be tuned and modified to over 2 litres....wow that sounds fun

VW being aircooled obviously didnt need a radiator etc

Only a few Super S were built and all shipped to the US.

Imp motors are very susceptible to overheating so the plumbing is crucial to a good cooling system. Getting the water from front rad back to the engine is not an exact science and my G15 and Sunbeam Stiletto had competition systems recommended by David Vizard (remember him from the Mini tuning books

http://www.imps4ever.info/tech/tuners_builders/vizard/ccc-look-in-cooling.html

Here's another helpful link...
http://forum.theimpclub.co.uk/forum_back_phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=33&p=222682

My G15 bonnet had rad ducting similar to a G15S.....

Hi John,

Another great thread started, got this bookmarked now.
I had a G15 back in the mid 80's it had a race tuned Hartwell 998 and when 'on the cam' went like a scolded cat, great fun 😉

If I remember it had Beetle front bumper that was cut in half (hence the capping piece in the centre) and a Riley Elf rear bumper. If you don't already have a copy its worth getting hold of 'G15 Super Profile' by John Rose.....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ginetta-Super-Profile-John-Rose/dp/0854294961


Cheers
Jon

Quoted from Old Smithy

I hope you don't mind me asking this but having spent the night trying to get the horn to work my neighbour and I traced and constructed something which looks identical to the pictures above (should have searched I'm here!) Connecting the grease point to the earth strap on the engine block.

What we couldn't figure out at all though is without this connection the horn worked if I moved the steering wheel to turn right but once back at centre or left it wouldn't. Why would that be?  There is clearly some reason why the earth was good one way and not the other but I can't find anything which would suggest why!

Cheers

Steve

GT6 also has a metal cross brace in the glass channel. If memory serves me right I think the quarterlight bolts to it.

GT6 also has a metal cross brace in the glass channel. If memory serves me right I think the quarterlight bolts to it.

Quoted from John Bonnett

We should meet up Jon for a pot of tea at Two Bridges. 😉

Quoted from Mark E

Good to hear they put it right. I've always had brilliant service from them.

Quoted from chunky63

I looked around all the usual sources including your suggestions and decided on getting all the parts I needed from James Paddock as they are very good on price and delivery, I even treated myself to one of those ABS gearbox covers to tidy up the interior and stop the nasty draughts and smells. 😉

I looked around all the usual sources including your suggestions and decided on getting all the parts I needed from James Paddock as they are very good on price and delivery, I even treated myself to one of those ABS gearbox covers to tidy up the interior and stop the nasty draughts and smells. 😉

Quoted from Don Cook

I have a TSSC stainless system on my MK111. However, the centre section includes a silencer that is perilously close to the chassis rails on either side. Bell silencers, who made the system, made me a stainless centre section without the silencer. So, easier to fit and a bit more fruity sounding. Bell Silencers are in Swindon.