TReslaV8

Thanks Howard, sorry I didn’t get to PM you, it has been a hectic few days (on a voluntary job I have!) so didn’t get the chance until now. Anyway, your explanation makes a lot of sense. Presumably then I need to replace the wiper motor so the park control works properly and thus the wipers will switch off.  Once again big thanks. David

Thanks Howard, sounds like that is the problem. Unfortunately nothing attached to your last message?

Huge thanks once again.

David

Thanks Howard, I note what you say about not affecting the starting but it was both with the wiper fuse removed and one power wire by the motor, the wipers stopped but then the car would turn over on ignition easily but not fire. As soon as I replaced the fuse (or the power) it reverted, fired on second churn but wipers stuck on.  I did manage to find a different bullet connector which seems to have just affected the wipers. I will also have a look for the 5 pin connectors you refer to.

Given what you say about the park contact (& I saw something similar on another club’s forum) is that a replacement wiper motor rather than a repair to the existing?

Finally as ever many thanks for the prompt response, most appreciated.  

David

Had a great Drive it Day run yesterday on the MAC Classic including a run up Shelsley Walsh hill climb, all in brilliant sunshine. But living on the other side of the country (Norwich) I returned this morning along a spray ridden M5/M42/M6/A14. Wipers on but as the rain petered out returning to the glorious East of England, the wipers decided they would like to keep going. I can get the two speeds, but switching off, or to intermittent, has no effect they just keep going. Took a while to find a way to cut the power to them, the 25A fuse also prevented the car firing (seems odd, but clearly some shared wiring there) it turned over readily but would not fire. Replaced fuse and engine runs fine, but so do the wipers constantly. Anyway would I be right in thinking this is likely to be a problem with the stalk switch rather than anywhere else? Cheers, David

Cheers for further response, I've been away for a few days (without the car) so with a TSSC club night ( no Norwich CT group!) to go to on Thursday, I shall have fingers crossed it plays ball!

Cheers for the further notes, I have lashed out on a couple of new relays, so will try those next and note what is said about the connections.  Of course I had hoped to take the car to France (Caux Retro not Le Mans Classic!) this weekend, but as crossing is tomorrow (Thursday) I am running out of time. Whatever I will give an update next week, if only as these threads are really helpful - reassures that one’s own car is not the only one that frustrates, but also great tips on sorting issues.

Thanks again, David

Thanks for this, the starter and solenoid does look similar and is suitably inaccessible below the exhaust manifold etc. This is likely to be one I ask a garage/auto electrician to do, not least in that access (without a lift) is so awkward!. But appreciate the detail. The car has of course started perfectly since, so now wondering if to leave well alone 🤞

David

Further news…just tried the not very scientific “wiggle the connections” with the light switch on, particularly those behind the fuse box. No reaction from the headlamps but a nice hot electrics smell very quickly from these connectors, even a small wisp of smoke. needless to say switched off pronto and stopped playing with the connectors!  This doesn’t sound encouraging…

So tried the two ideas and nothing happening. With both headlamps manually wound up (power off and battery lead off) , then switch on and reconnected battery and lights on, but switching off the lights just did that, switched the lights off and the pods remained up.

David 

Thanks Howard, I will give that a go too.

Thanks Matt, I’ll try that but for clarity, Is that with the headlight switch on or off?

Hello, I have seen the thread with Nigel/Howard on TR7 headlamps and followed the steps mentioned but my fault is different (I think!) to that described elsewhere. The lights work but the pods do not rise. Having tested the connections at the lights the blue/brown wire is showing 12v on a multimeter but the blue/purple is showing nothing (both sides).  I have also tried the manually raising the pods 3cm and turning the switch on, and no movement at all either side.  So do I now need to check the Pektron unit or is it more likely that the motors are kaput?  

Many thanks in advance 

David

Thanks both, earth connections seem fine (cleaned them up) so onto solenoid?  Being a novice mechanic (probably not that good) suggestions on next steps welcome

To explain, after 900 miles in 36 hours (yes the C2C!) and a long drive home in 30 degrees, the car was parked on the drive for about an hour. Went to start to move it into the garage and just a click and dashboard lights but no attempt to turn the engine. Come back after tea (about another hour) and it starts immediately as per normal.  A faulty/over heated coil? I am going to check for loose connections on the starter motor too tired tonight after C2C!!).

Coincidentally the radio stopped responding on the return journey too (as well as headlamp pods not rising!) so it has suddenly developed some electrical gremlins. These two may be unconnected but welcome ideas.

I’ll echo that sentiment, a great C2C in 2023, a huge thank you to all involved. We managed to miss a couple of points too but still a great run and I agree the Lakes were stunning even at 3am!

So 920miles all told with journey to start and return from finish, and 37-38mpg from a carb TR7, and many bottles of water for the team - boy it was hot coming back!

Many thanks all, I did find it, neatly tucked out of the way behind the carpet under the centre console- the previous owner had replaced it with a. Standard cylindrical one and moved it from the back of glove box position.  Anyway all sorted now and LED works on the hazard switch.  Once agin big thanks to everyone who responded, it really is a most helpful forum!

Thanks both, that’s really helpful. And thanks Howard, I did track a handbook down - but appreciate your help on that even if I failed to get down to you! 

Hello all, just updated side lights and indicators to LEDs (I know this is not to everyone’s taste but bear with me!) and whilst they all work fine the hazards don’t. I changed the indicator relay to a LED specific one and have a further LED relay to swap for the hazard one, but I can’t find it!  According to Haynes it should be behind the fuses behind the glove box but I am not convinced. Certainly nothing the right shape visible (lovely position, upside down, head in footwell, feet waving around the headrest) so any ideas of where it might be? It’s a 1982 registered UK  RHD convertible. 

David

Some great responses, many thanks one and all. Tackling a few suggestions, the fan is unlikely as the original was removed and a Revotec installed in front of the radiator. I run the car on super unleaded, so E5, and usually Esso, as that has reputedly got no ethanol (at least in most areas of the UK) but will check for any petrol leaks just in case a rubber pipe or grommet is squeaking. The car has had new rear springs and shocks in last 6 months so will check both those and the fronts, but seems unlikely as it will make the noise when idling, i.e not moving. I will have a look at the carbs as I have just spent some time cleaning up some under bonnet areas (what is they say, if it ain't broke don't fix it, or even clean it!!) so maybe I have dislodged some silencing muck😉.  Quite a few things to check out but thanks for all the suggestions - it is a regular twittering sound, so relatively high pitched. 

Thanks everyone once again.

David

Cheers, that will be the second speedo the car has had in only 40,000 miles! but it figures. I will have a go at trying to clear out any grit etc.

David

I will try to track it down but even on idle you can hear it. The fan is a Revotec electric fan and installed only a few months back so I don't think it is that but worth checking. Also the heater fan, as I know I have left that on, now that I have a new heater matrix, so possibly a consequence of all that being disturbed. However I would say it is under bonnet rather than under dash noise.

Hello,

 Any ideas on what might be causing a twittering or high pitch chatter I can hear over the engine. It doesn't seem to be engine speed dependent or even road speed (although the faster you go, it gets drowned out)  but it is fairly constant. Could it be the water pump starting to complain?  Ideas welcome so hopefully I can avoid a breakdown en route to Spa for the WEC 6 hours at the end of April (watching not competing 😉)  

Cheers

David

Hello, So most times when starting from cold, I get a few yards down the road and the speedo starts to screech loudly and the needle spins round to the stop - nice to think I might be doing 130mph (I would be screeching if I were!) but clearly not, just 30 ish.  This goes on for 5 minutes then it stops and the needle reverts to a normal reading. Sometimes it does it again but once the car is warm it doesn't seem to do it at all. In normal operation the needle is quivering (ah, the excitement of a run out in winter!) rather than being steady but this may be normal.  The odometer works as per normal throughout. So to resolve, is this a speedo cable replacement ? Or is it likely to be the 'clock' itself? Ideas welcome.

David

Big thanks to the advice received which meant that I have successfully swapped the Alternator. Checking the number printed on the old alternator it appears to be one used on a Massey Ferguson tractor (?!?!) but the new one fitted easily enough save for the awkward to reach bolts! Upon removal it was clear that the 3 wires were originally on the one plug as one had just been cut (see photo) but all back together and a few miles round the block seem to confirm it is charging as it should. So once again big thanks to everyone, proving the value of the Forums 😃

Brilliant, all very helpful responses thank you. These have filled in the gaps of (my) knowledge and the Haynes “unplug, unbolt remove old one and then reverse with new” which did sound too easy! Thanks again!