TReslaV8

Thanks Howard, sorry I didn’t get to PM you, it has been a hectic few days (on a voluntary job I have!) so didn’t get the chance until now. Anyway, your explanation makes a lot of sense. Presumably then I need to replace the wiper motor so the park control works properly and thus the wipers will switch off. Once again big thanks. David

Thanks Howard, sounds like that is the problem. Unfortunately nothing attached to your last message? Huge thanks once again. David

Thanks Howard, I note what you say about not affecting the starting but it was both with the wiper fuse removed and one power wire by the motor, the wipers stopped but then the car would turn over on ignition easily but not fire. As soon as I replaced the fuse (or the power) it reverted, fired on second churn but wipers stuck on. I did manage to find a different bullet connector which seems to have just affected the wipers. I will also have a look for the 5 pin connectors you refer to. Given what you say about the park contact (& I saw something similar on another club’s forum) is that a replacement wiper motor rather than a repair to the existing? Finally as ever many thanks for the prompt response, most appreciated. David

Had a great Drive it Day run yesterday on the MAC Classic including a run up Shelsley Walsh hill climb, all in brilliant sunshine. But living on the other side of the country (Norwich) I returned this morning along a spray ridden M5/M42/M6/A14. Wipers on but as the rain petered out returning to the glorious East of England, the wipers decided they would like to keep going. I can get the two speeds, but switching off, or to intermittent, has no effect they just keep going. Took a while to find a way to cut the power to them, the 25A fuse also prevented the car firing (seems odd, but clearly some shared wiring there) it turned over readily but would not fire. Replaced fuse and engine runs fine, but so do the wipers constantly. Anyway would I be right in thinking this is likely to be a problem with the stalk switch rather than anywhere else? Cheers, David

Cheers for further response, I've been away for a few days (without the car) so with a TSSC club night ( no Norwich CT group!) to go to on Thursday, I shall have fingers crossed it plays ball!

Cheers for the further notes, I have lashed out on a couple of new relays, so will try those next and note what is said about the connections. Of course I had hoped to take the car to France (Caux Retro not Le Mans Classic!) this weekend, but as crossing is tomorrow (Thursday) I am running out of time. Whatever I will give an update next week, if only as these threads are really helpful - reassures that one’s own car is not the only one that frustrates, but also great tips on sorting issues. Thanks again, David

Thanks for this, the starter and solenoid does look similar and is suitably inaccessible below the exhaust manifold etc. This is likely to be one I ask a garage/auto electrician to do, not least in that access (without a lift) is so awkward!. But appreciate the detail. The car has of course started perfectly since, so now wondering if to leave well alone 🤞 David

Further news…just tried the not very scientific “wiggle the connections” with the light switch on, particularly those behind the fuse box. No reaction from the headlamps but a nice hot electrics smell very quickly from these connectors, even a small wisp of smoke. needless to say switched off pronto and stopped playing with the connectors! This doesn’t sound encouraging…

So tried the two ideas and nothing happening. With both headlamps manually wound up (power off and battery lead off) , then switch on and reconnected battery and lights on, but switching off the lights just did that, switched the lights off and the pods remained up. David

Thanks Howard, I will give that a go too.

Thanks Matt, I’ll try that but for clarity, Is that with the headlight switch on or off?

Hello, I have seen the thread with Nigel/Howard on TR7 headlamps and followed the steps mentioned but my fault is different (I think!) to that described elsewhere. The lights work but the pods do not rise. Having tested the connections at the lights the blue/brown wire is showing 12v on a multimeter but the blue/purple is showing nothing (both sides). I have also tried the manually raising the pods 3cm and turning the switch on, and no movement at all either side. So do I now need to check the Pektron unit or is it more likely that the motors are kaput? Many thanks in advance David

Thanks both, earth connections seem fine (cleaned them up) so onto solenoid? Being a novice mechanic (probably not that good) suggestions on next steps welcome

To explain, after 900 miles in 36 hours (yes the C2C!) and a long drive home in 30 degrees, the car was parked on the drive for about an hour. Went to start to move it into the garage and just a click and dashboard lights but no attempt to turn the engine. Come back after tea (about another hour) and it starts immediately as per normal. A faulty/over heated coil? I am going to check for loose connections on the starter motor too tired tonight after C2C!!). Coincidentally the radio stopped responding on the return journey too (as well as headlamp pods not rising!) so it has suddenly developed some electrical gremlins. These two may be unconnected but welcome ideas.

I’ll echo that sentiment, a great C2C in 2023, a huge thank you to all involved. We managed to miss a couple of points too but still a great run and I agree the Lakes were stunning even at 3am! So 920miles all told with journey to start and return from finish, and 37-38mpg from a carb TR7, and many bottles of water for the team - boy it was hot coming back!