Tel

Looking at this post the other day, I have the same problem on my gt6. All the trunion rubbers are split in half, the brake calliper dirt seals are completely shot, anti roll bar poly bushes have melted and steering rack boots are starting to crack, all were replaced about 5 to 6 years ago and the car has not been on the road yet. I still have the old ones that look ok so I'm going to refit them.

23 hours ago, glang said:

Ha yes and also all 3 rail 4 synchro gearboxes that fit the Vitesse/GT6 range have the same ratios so really no problem which one it is...

Thanks for that solves the problem, I need to take the top of the box soon as the shift is a bit stiff. If no KC is found I will stamp it.

Hello Glang

The numbers are stamped where you say, no sigh of grinding its the original finish, Im going to take the top off the box incase the the numbers have been stamped out of line, thanks for your reply

Hi, Can anyone help with gearbox I/D numbers, the box i have fitted to the car has no prefix just the number 8776 is there any other way to identify if its a KC box. The car is not on the road yet so i would like to make sure the box is correct for the car.

4 hours ago, Tim Bancroft said:

Hi Tel,

There are four 'fuzzy' seals for the doors and rear side window:

NS Door aperture

NS Rear Window aperture

OS Dood aperture

OS Window aperture

Originally. the rear windows had a specially formed seal, but these are obtainable.  Therefore suppliers supply seals for this window that have the same section as the door seal.

 

In addition the GT6 doors had two extra seals:

One fitted into runner on top of seal: no longer available. This slides into a channel that is welded to the onto the sill, difficult to explain though!

One fitted into the fuzzy seal against the A post, these are obtainable and do reduce wind noise and water penetration.

 

 

HI Tim

Thanks for the reply
The seals i got were 3 long rubber seals and two fuzzy seals, i fitted one long to the two rear windows and the other two to the doors thinking the fluffy seals must fit around the door windows and quarter light, would i be right thinking i should have fitted the fuzzy seals to the rear windows and the  other two long ones go completely around the door apertures,  i think the long one now fitted  to the rear windows was meant the the tailgate, would i now need to get more of the fuzzy seals to go on the A post. When I got the car it was in boxes. I do remember that the doors had seals glued on to the bottom where it closes on the sill.

Hello

I purchase a set of door seals from Canleys a while ago, i would like to know if the Fuzzy seal in the kit is fitted from the door latch on the A  post to the top of the quarter light window or does it go down to the bottom of the quarter light where it protrudes from door I need to cut all the seals to length so don't want to find i have cut them to short. The parts books I have looked at don't really give what I want. Any help will be greatly appreciated.    

5 hours ago, Baxter said:

Good to hear it's working now. You mentioned you're finishing off the wiring so do shout if there are any further issues. I put a new loom in mine several years ago and for the most part used a diagram in an Autopress manual by Philip Smith. I had trouble finding correct or colour diagrams on the internet.

Thanks for your comments on the Vitesse, I really like the 1600. Hopefully see your GT6 in action soon, or at least some photos 😃

I liked the Vitesse except i think mine was what they used to call a tea break Friday car, after 4 months needed a new engine due to excessive crank end float, after 3 years i shut the boot and the rear bumper vallance fell off through rust i got it replaced FOC i was told it had not been painted correctly, also i did not like the bulkhead shake im told this was improved on later cars but dont know if true. The GT6 will not be finished this year but the other triumph will be, just got to swap the steering box for a rack. Thanks for the wiring offer will keep it in mind.

14 hours ago, Tel said:

I have tried all combinations but not this one, looks promising will try it in the morning Many thanks

Connected the switch as per your diagram, wiper now all ok fast, slow, and park the only other thing i did was to swap over the n/lg and R/lg wires at the motor, many thanks again. Like the Vitesse i had one new with the 1600 engine light blue in 1965 about £900 if i remember rightly  

1 hour ago, Baxter said:

Hey Tel

I used this when I rewired my 67 MK1

I have tried all combinations but not this one, looks promising will try it in the morning Many thanks

1 hour ago, glang said:

Your best off looking at the free to download Triumph workshop manual as it has the wiring diagrams for all models of GT6...

I have found wiring diagrams but non match what i have, the ones that may give what i need are unreadable, i will have a look for manuals

Thanks anyway

14 hours ago, RobPearce said:

Hmm... My Spitfire never had "foam", just a thin black plastic moulding directly on the metal. The dash surround (Mk3) was the same but I re-covered that in soft vinyl. I would say that my GT6's door cappings are similarly thin and foamless, and they may even still be the originals. The dash top is foam underneath because it's a crash pad. The front edge of parcel shelves and the bits below a MkIV wooden dash are vinyl over thin foam.

This is an image of my capping     

https://filedn.eu/lIeh2yR6LSw58g5HQMThnmR/triumph/bottom.jpg

Thats the bit, i have got a new black plastic cover, i may be wrong but i think its meant to fit over the old foam type molding.

Just found these in a box that came with the car, one with part of the locking catch missing both with no hinges. Free to members only 

Im looking for the  complete molding as old one missing

20 hours ago, Greta said:

Have you swapped your original 6 cylinder dizzy for a new electronic one? Do you have the old dizzy from your GT6 / Vitesse / TR6 sitting in your spares or autojumble box. It doesn't need to be pretty as long as it's complete with mechanical tacho take off & Vacuum Advance. Willing to pay for any serviceable unit. Please get in touch. Greta.

Just about to swap my old gt6 mk1 unit for an electronic one you are welcome to the old as soon as i have done the job,  just put a few bob in a  charity box if you end up with it, just waiting for the new one to arrive

Quoted from Bradders-

Well I have it running for some time before I start adjusting anything and it doesnt take long to get the temp needle to the centre of the gauge in this weather.

As for my driveway punts it is just a relatively safe place to try it out. The last time I tried to be more adventurous I ended up stranded at the end of my road!

That time it was sticking floats (now fixed hopefully). My driveway is a bit of a slope  but it really struggles to pull it the 20 or 30 yards up it at the moment.

Cheers 

Quoted from Bradders-

Hi

I have new needles and jets recently fitted to the twin HS2s on my mkIV and I am trying to set them up following the well trodden path described in the Haynes manual. I can follow it fine but it seems I need to enrich each carb by at least 10 flats above the initial 12 'default' setting to get it running smoothly and to respond correctly when lifting the piston a touch with the lifting pin. However, this setting gives me quite a black sooty exhaust emission indicating it's too rich.

I guess all I can do is tweak it to a compromise but could I be missing something here which would lead to this behaviour? Furthermore,  although the setting is car-specific, I would be interested to know if 10 flats is typical, does anyone have an idea of the number needed to get it right on their car?

Cheers

Bradders

 

Quoted from Bradders-

Hi

I have new needles and jets recently fitted to the twin HS2s on my mkIV and I am trying to set them up following the well trodden path described in the Haynes manual. I can follow it fine but it seems I need to enrich each carb by at least 10 flats above the initial 12 'default' setting to get it running smoothly and to respond correctly when lifting the piston a touch with the lifting pin. However, this setting gives me quite a black sooty exhaust emission indicating it's too rich.

I guess all I can do is tweak it to a compromise but could I be missing something here which would lead to this behaviour? Furthermore,  although the setting is car-specific, I would be interested to know if 10 flats is typical, does anyone have an idea of the number needed to get it right on their car?

Cheers

Bradders

 

Worked for SU once always set jet at 2 turns for start up, Make sure needle is set flush with the bottom  of piston

Quoted from FloydP-

I used a 1/2” block when I swapped to a swing spring and I’m fairly happy with the rear camber.

Very nice, what size wheels and tyres are you running on

Thanks, The car has been sitting for 4 years with two 32kg training weights in the boot but not driven only moved about,  I thought i may have to use lowering blocks but don't know what thickness to get at the moment at about £25 each  for a starting point i might try if possibile and put some spacers under the spring as a test for the size of blocks i need.  I don't have a WSM at present got mislaid in house move but will get one.