Tel

Looking at this post the other day, I have the same problem on my gt6. All the trunion rubbers are split in half, the brake calliper dirt seals are completely shot, anti roll bar poly bushes have melted and steering rack boots are starting to crack, all were replaced about 5 to 6 years ago and the car has not been on the road yet. I still have the old ones that look ok so I'm going to refit them.

Thanks for that solves the problem, I need to take the top of the box soon as the shift is a bit stiff. If no KC is found I will stamp it.

Hello Glang The numbers are stamped where you say, no sigh of grinding its the original finish, Im going to take the top off the box incase the the numbers have been stamped out of line, thanks for your reply

Hi, Can anyone help with gearbox I/D numbers, the box i have fitted to the car has no prefix just the number 8776 is there any other way to identify if its a KC box. The car is not on the road yet so i would like to make sure the box is correct for the car.

HI Tim Thanks for the reply The seals i got were 3 long rubber seals and two fuzzy seals, i fitted one long to the two rear windows and the other two to the doors thinking the fluffy seals must fit around the door windows and quarter light, would i be right thinking i should have fitted the fuzzy seals to the rear windows and the other two long ones go completely around the door apertures, i think the long one now fitted to the rear windows was meant the the tailgate, would i now need to get more of the fuzzy seals to go on the A post. When I got the car it was in boxes. I do remember that the doors had seals glued on to the bottom where it closes on the sill.

GT6 Mk1 door door closer seals. Hello I purchase a set of door seals from Canleys a while ago, i would like to know if the Fuzzy seal in the kit is fitted from the door latch on the A post to the top of the quarter light window or does it go down to the bottom of the quarter light where it protrudes from door I need to cut all the seals to length so don't want to find i have cut them to short. The parts books I have looked at don't really give what I want. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I liked the Vitesse except i think mine was what they used to call a tea break Friday car, after 4 months needed a new engine due to excessive crank end float, after 3 years i shut the boot and the rear bumper vallance fell off through rust i got it replaced FOC i was told it had not been painted correctly, also i did not like the bulkhead shake im told this was improved on later cars but dont know if true. The GT6 will not be finished this year but the other triumph will be, just got to swap the steering box for a rack. Thanks for the wiring offer will keep it in mind.

Connected the switch as per your diagram, wiper now all ok fast, slow, and park the only other thing i did was to swap over the n/lg and R/lg wires at the motor, many thanks again. Like the Vitesse i had one new with the 1600 engine light blue in 1965 about £900 if i remember rightly

I have tried all combinations but not this one, looks promising will try it in the morning Many thanks

I have found wiring diagrams but non match what i have, the ones that may give what i need are unreadable, i will have a look for manuals Thanks anyway

Hello all I am just finishing the wiring on the gt6 so far so good but hit a problem with wiring up the wiper switch, the switch is a 3 position toggle 5 connections with numbers 1 to 7 on the spade connectors has anyone a wiring diagram showing this switch and what numbers wires to, i've had a look on the internet and can't seem to find anything like i have, both the switch and motor look original, switch is old part number 145203 new number 35927 the motor is a DR3A two speed with parking. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks Terry

This is an image of my capping https://filedn.eu/lIeh2yR6LSw58g5HQMThnmR/triumph/bottom.jpg

Thats the bit, i have got a new black plastic cover, i may be wrong but i think its meant to fit over the old foam type molding.

Just found these in a box that came with the car, one with part of the locking catch missing both with no hinges. Free to members only

Im looking for the complete molding as old one missing

Just about to swap my old gt6 mk1 unit for an electronic one you are welcome to the old as soon as i have done the job, just put a few bob in a charity box if you end up with it, just waiting for the new one to arrive

    Worked for SU once always set jet at 2 turns for start up, Make sure needle is set flush with the bottom  of piston

Very nice, what size wheels and tyres are you running on

Thanks, The car has been sitting for 4 years with two 32kg training weights in the boot but not driven only moved about,  I thought i may have to use lowering blocks but don't know what thickness to get at the moment at about £25 each  for a starting point i might try if possibile and put some spacers under the spring as a test for the size of blocks i need.  I don't have a WSM at present got mislaid in house move but will get one.

Hello   Just rejoined the club after a 4 year break renovating an old house. I have resumed work on a 68 GT6 Mk1 and could do with a bit if information regarding steering and suspension set up. The car now has the Canley swing spring modification and standard parts elsewhere, it is intended to use the car just for road use, what would be the best steering and suspension set up to use, at present on the rear there is very bad positive camber haven't measured it yet but looks like  quite a few degrees (Just about to make a home made tool to check it for now all the alignment tooling hopefully arrives next week), the fronts don't look to bad for camber don't know about caster toe and king pin also does any one know of anybody the does glass have a crack appeared in the windscreen have another good screen so need someone to swap it Battle East Sussex area, any help would be very much appreaciate   Thanks  Tel