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Rich L

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Posts posted by Rich L

  1. Quoted from RobPearce-

    My experience with a Mk3 Spitfire (which is extra difficult because the front edge of the crash pad has a bulge in the middle) is that the vinyl will come loose unless you overlap it into all the places you can clamp it. In particular, the front edge that is wrapped under must be folded into the metal channel that sits over the lip of the bulkhead top, so that it's mechanically secured once fitted.

    Thanks for the advice Rob

  2. Quoted from byakk0-

    Hey Rich.

     

    I had to go back and see what I last posted, had to go back to #550. Looks like the only thing I have since then is cover it with black vinyl. I used 3M #77 spray glue in a can. This was prob last summer. It's started coming loose, so I may need to re-glue it. Haven't installed it yet,as I need to remove the windscreen frame so I can get it painted.

    Hi Hazan

    I'm interested to know how the vinyl came out.  In the pics I can't see the 'Ash Tray' dip which on the original is well defined.  Most people who cover their dash pads seem to keep the original vinyl on and cover that - so interested to see if you are getting clean lines (particularly around the ash tray) covering the original foam.

    Many thanks

    Rich

  3. Thinking about it, probably the recess is to account for the felt since they would need to align across the font edge where they mount on the transverse support wheel arch to wheelarch.  So remains a mystery.

    I'll probaly make a new spare wheel board and go with the the thinner thickness therefore - with a thick felt strip and add support (maybe polystyrene) on top of the spare wheel.

    Strange!

  4. Now that I look at them again, I think it's intentional.  The thicker board is over the spare wheel and is the one thats bowed.  I'm guessing that it's thicker because it's not supported in the middle where the tank board probably is by the tank.  In fact there is a plate fixed along the edge of the fuel tank board to support the spare wheel board.  The plate is NOT flat and is actually recessed for something wider.  Also the spare wheel board has a strip of felt along the same joint (that sits on the supporting plate..  The shape of the plate suggests a different tickness unless that's supposed to account for the felt strip.   

    I'm sure that neither are DIY copies BTW, the detail and fixings are too good.

    Many thanks

    Rich

  5. Hi all

    I'm refering to the 2 boards covering the spare wheel and the Fuel tank respectivelly.

    Looking at the detail on them, mine are almost certainly original GT6 but I notice that one is about 1.5mm thinner than the other. Seems very odd - has anybody else come across this?

    I need to make a new board to cover the spare wheel as mine is badly bowed. Obviously thicker is best but wondering if there could be any explanation?

    Maybe I have a mk 3 and a mk 2 board or something? Really not sure.

    Many thanks for any advice.

    Rich

  6. Hi all

    My 1500 spit (76) won't go into gear.  It was fine, then started crunching into some gears now impossible to engage unless the engine isn't running. Actual engagement is very low on the pedal.  No fluid leaks.

    Bled clutch.  Was fine for a bit then started doing exacrly the same.

    I was about to change the slave but do you think it could be the master?

    Any advice appreciated.

    Many thanks

    Rich

  7. Helloo.  Does anybody have any experience of using XRN Engineering parts over Borg & Beck please (which are twice the price) in terms of quality / long lasting please.  Changing the Clutch Slave Cylinder (spit 1500).

    Many thanks for any advice, much appreciated.


    Rich

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