herald948

According to the Canley Classics website, this is a "Core plug - 1 1/4"." Dished type (which I suspect is what you have is part number 56712; the bucket type is part number 144686.

https://canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-herald-1200&diagram=triumph-herald-1200-engine

Quoted from RobPearce-

I'd say it's a bit of a bodge and certainly no good for a "concours" (or even A1+) car, but since it's factory approved I don't see any reason not to use that approach in preference to having to part with the car.

But if it's "factory approved," it doesn't really qualify as a bodge, does it, and judging points should not be deducted for a "factory approved" procedure, right? 🤣

Kiri, any cover that will fit any Triumph Spitfire will also fit your Herald!

Quoted from Adrianb-

Hi . Have double checked and they are deffo spot welded in place so grinder is coming out .Many thanks for the input.

Time to round up some new (or good used) bits? I'm not sure I would trust anything where the bolt has been welded in! 🙄

Quoted from nang-

I see you have an alternator,so most probably negative earth.

Tony.

Agreed! That vintage of 1200 would have been positive ground originally, but likely that's no longer relevant, given the alternator. (Conversion is/was as others have noted above.)

Pretend you are looking at the inner driveshaft flange straight on from the side of the car. The bolts can be inserted from the inside out at the hole in the 3 o'clock position on the LH (near) side, and from the hole in the 9 o'clock position on the RH (off) side.

See how the boss on the casing is concave (in this case, near the fill plug). That allows you the room to insert the bolt from behind.

Great list, and very useful! Oh, and thanks for noting my Database!

Of course, nothing in the Triumph World is "absolute"! For example:

I have, on that database, an "export" model 1200 convertible (has Courier-style grille), GA16005LCV, which has the bonnet handle! But given how close that is to 15938, I'm not surprised that the handle would be present!

Having owned and driven various Heralds and Spitfires for just shy of 50 years now, I can honestly say I've yet to see a measurable difference between capacity or ability of either radiator in doing what radiators are supposed to do!

In my opinion, either light coming on at low revs is not cause for panic, but it certainly is worth checking out regardless!

Everything you mention from the 1200 will fit the 948 without problem or drama. However, you may or may NOT find the carburetion to be ideal, depending on which 1200 carb you have. Also, depending on the manifold, your exhaust headpipe (if you have one) might not mate up to it. Certainly nothing insurmountable, though, and pretty much nothing that can't be accomplished with the usual basic wrenches (no large hammers or welding torches needed)!

If I remember the "secret coding" correctly, a UL2705 would be a whopping 1/8" longer (5/8") than the UL2704 (1/2"), and that difference would be difficult for the most discerning Concours judge to spot! 😉

Quoted from glang

Youre right Tony there wouldnt be much improvement but I believe the system operates one front and one rear brake as a diagonal pair...

G_Cam: I hope you're not thinking of my web site! The only reason I say that is because what I have on triumph-herald.us are some wiring diagrams specific to the North American market, where there were differences in lighting switches and circuits...oh, and we had fuse boxes. I figured those might not be so useful. 😉

Original 948 manuals (owners, owners repair, workshop) seem to pop up all the time on eBay; worth a look?

Both are black! Note that those side valences are not an especially glossy black. At least to my eye, "chassis black" is a good paint to use there as it's not so glossy as a regular exterior body paint.

Quoted from glang

Does anyone else think the roof height on the Herald/vitesse is too high or is it just me?

With that wonderful 5/8" - 3/4" adapter, I've used many different filters over the years here in the US, among them AC's PF-13, Fram's PH-16 or even Ford/Motorcraft's FL1-A. It was great when I had all my 140 series Volvos and/or my Saab 99, as nearly everything I drove took the same filter! I still stock up on the AC PF-13 whenever I can.

Yes, longer earlier and shorter later. The change may have been around 1964-1965; it's hard to tell for certain. I can look in my various Lucas catalogues, but that's no guarantee of absolute accuracy, either (I've found errors in those catalogues before -- shocking, I know)!

If I read the Spare Parts Catalogue correctly, there is a "Washer, Medium" [WM0067]between the lid and the frame. 1/4" ID, 1/2" outer diameter and (I think) 3/16" thick. That frame (again, if I read the SPC correctly) goes to the rearmost of the two studs on the hinge, and the nut there as well as the nut on the rear deck get only plain washers [WP0007]. The "front" fixing hinge-to-lid gets a lock washer [WL0207] only and a nut.

P/N HU807P (originally HU0807P): SET(screw with) POINT(ed tip) - 5/16" X 7/8" UNF
P/N WL208 (originally WL0208 ): Lock washer to go with above

both from Canley Classics online catalogue

P/N HU807P (originally HU0807P): SET(screw with) POINT(ed tip) - 5/16" X 7/8" UNF
P/N WL208 (originally WL0208 ): Lock washer to go with above

both from Canley Classics online catalogue

Quoted from Matt306

The Overdrive conversion will affect the reading too?

Quoted from glang

Nigel just remembered a couple of other things:
Im running 165/80 X 13 tyres which does make the 3.89 diff a little bit taller. This gives a small speedo error which of course would be even greater with a change of diff ratio. To correct this you need to either recalibrate the speedo or change the speedo drive gears in the gearbox....

I would think that utilizing the original finisher strip (#73 in the diagram from Canley Classics in the link below) along with the associated fasteners and screws, as original, would be the way to go. Where the hood actually fastens to the deck would not be affected by your use of the ratchet straps, but the hood frame mounting might be, so you might want to fit the hood and frame first?

http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-herald-13/60-convertible-hood

Is it possible (and, if so, how easy) to adapt the later style of steering rack to the "early" chassis, given the difference in the way the two mount? If that is NOT practical, is the only real option to get a reconditioned unit from Rimmer Bros, as Canley Classics does not list such an item as available? This question involves a LHS 1960 Herald here in the US, and I would like to pass along the best possible information, said owner being relatively sure the rack needs to be replaced. Thank you for any and all input!