esxefi

can't you drill it out and retap to a larger size?

I did this with my old sprint box,drilled and tapped out to m12 and fitted a decent lock wired allen bolt  right into the fork,never gave any issues for 20+yrs with an uprated ap cover n'all.

I use hard line hose where ever possible,the less rubber in the system the better IMO especially where fuel is concerned.same for cooling system,elbows and hose joiners are the only rubber bits.

change the oil pressure switches around and see if it then does it on the other car,one switch might activate at a higher pressure even though they might be the same part no.

have had greenstuff fitted for over 20years now,only time they gassed up was at a brands track day in blistering heat.mind i'm using large vented discs and bigger calipers in a 2500spit so not a very good comparison.
I would rather they worked from cold when you need them in an emergency for the trade off of the unlikely event of them fading on Dartmoor or some such place.
tried ferodo ds2500s' once,orrible pads for the road/fast road,dusted to b*ggery,shredded the discs and squealed like a kicked pig,mind you the bite was good,picking my teeth out the dash.

Quoted from ferny

Took mine off around 2008. Been off ever since.

Quoted from Spider

Has anyone tried removing their ARB? I had occasion to on a GT6, Smashed the one mountings off, so I removed the ARB until I could fabricate some new mountings.
I found it was more compliant to the road surfaces we have to injure now, as for roll, I didn't really notice a marked difference. It had 480lb springs which obviously helped. I was tempted to leave mine off, as I think with the set up I had it was better off on uneven surfaces without with only a marginal trade off in the roll dept. Also making it softer on the front is better for reducing under steer and increasing oversteer

OT^^what size are the connections?

you can employ the same theory for gas speed as that used in the induction and exhaust ie the smaller the bore the faster the speed,a small bore will carry oil vapour further down the line and result in clogging a filter sooner.

best bet is large typically 3/4" or more(to be honest I would go 1"on these engines) breather hoses to allow drop out of oil mist into a catch tank.course it all depends on how worn and how much the engine breathes.

OP as john says I thought it was more of an oil baffle than a flame trap

how about screwing a block of wood between the two flanges, in essence making the axle 'solid' as long as you only need to move the car backwards and forwards.mind there is the danger of the body slumping either way if the v/links pivot on the trunnions.

don't forget the spring too.

they should be fitted to the standard equipment to prevent corrosion as you have found,only permissible to leave them if using stainless pistons but even then for road use fitting is advisable.

your logic is sound.it is because the valve connects to the positive vacuum side of the inlet manifold so will open at idle under high vacuum and suck volume from the crankcase.

I've never used or had one so not too sure how it operates at part/full throttle but to me it seems that you would want maximum engine breathing at these revs rather than idle.

well my helix clutch uses a saab turbo cover(higher torque rating) I was told by them so I suspect you are right about the friction disc although I don't know about the spline size.

do you mean to reduce the nose diam.to enable the bearing carrier to slide on?

there should only be a bearing behind it and some oil if you have any in the box,a simple bolt on/off job.a new gasket required on reassembly possibly.

it's normally the other way round that a low pedal bite point indicates a worn clutch.as the clutch wears the diaphragm spring fingers protrude out more so the release bearing has to travel slightly further to operate the clutch,(although in reality the clutch still disengages at the same rate we feel it as the spring has further to travel over centre)we are only talking millimetres but it is felt much more at the pedal due to the fluid transfer ratio from m/cylinder to s/cyl.

going further on johns post,

if you are not concerned about originality the best you can do is fit the biggest oil separator tank you can plumbed in to a naturally aspirated system.

in detail;- connect the r/c breather and ideally if you can a fabricated crankcase breather to a large separator tank,the vapour outlet can be directed to the inlet of the airbox  if you have one.
here the key is the bigger the better as a large diameter hose and tank will reduce gas speed so enabling oil mist to drop out of the air stream and condense back into liquid from which you can either drain off regularly or as I have done
connected to the dipstick tube for a permanent drain.

these engines are old tech and can burn a lot of oil once worn.
in these times of 'greenness' anything we can do to make them 'cleaner' is a good thing,..ho..hum.

deffo not a reamer it has no cutting edges.

from the dimensions you give and it's construction it is surely too fragile to be in a gearbox or o/d unit.

you sure it isn't from the pressure washer?

they do tend to 'pulse' when operating,it could be a shuttle from the nozzle.

I've booked and paid.

paul carter.

you should have tried reversing the situation with the lights on the other side to see if they presented the same condition.
there 'must' have been an earth somewhere or the lights could be wired in series but this would reduce the output of all of them a bit like fairy lights.

could you draw a rough schematic of the wiring connections as i'm curious now.LOL

well I have booked the day off from work,the weather at that time of year can be unpredictable but what the hell i'll give it a go,

the smaller pipe usually has a piece of nylon tube fitted to it to direct overflowing fuel down to the ground and away from the hot ex manifold,later spits had them I know.

yes slightly but I moved the body catch plate down a bit to compensate as it has some spring in it,that is why I said to only remove a tiny amount at a time and try it.

2nd

Quoted from system6

Esxefi
         Any chance of photo?... can,t undertand where to grind the dimple
  Cheers  S

or you can grind a small dimple on the back of the hook where the roller sits when closed to make a more positive locking action,only remove a small amount at a time and check operation each time.
worked for me.

still sounds like an earth problem as the side lights and brake lights are separate circuits but share a common earth point.take the holders out and run a jump wire to a good earth(batt is best)and get someone to go through the motions while you earth each circuit in turn and together.

Quoted from RedRooster

2nd coil now in, I love tie wraps

Is there any reason the coil is mounted vertically upright, I seem to remember something back in the day about mounting them upside down so that the air was at the bottom of the canister away from the HV?