DJT

Yes, The SOC is preparing a 50th birthday bash at Silverstone on 2nd August, the club national day.

Without removing them and checking the combustion chamber shape, look at the numbers cast into the upper surface. V31** = Mk1, V32** = Mk2

Modern 'non-exciter' alternators don't need the ignition light to function. Just tape the small brown/yellow wire out of the way. The ignition light still works as it should.

Mk2 Stag indicator flasher unit is behind the dashboard. Sometimes clipped to the lower steering column shroud. The hazard unit is on the relay panel behind the parcel shelf.

It is well documented that the Triumph V8 was originally designed as a 2.5-litre PI, but they couldn't get it to comply with the US emission laws, so it was bored out to 3-litres and fitted with Strombergs.

It is well documented that the Triumph V8 was originally designed as a 2.5-litre PI, but they couldn't get it to comply with the US emission laws, so it was bored out to 3-litres and fitted with Strombergs.

Quoted from Martins Stag

DJT

Interesting that was in the back of my mind too... I assume Ricardo's assisted in the design of the engine ? Do you have any details?

Martin

Martin,

Ricardo designed the slant 4 on behalf of Triumph and SAAB. Triumph took it a stage further with the V8 as they wanted a family of engines with the same basic design to keep tooling costs down. I did read once that they intended to stretch the slant 4 into a slant 6, (or was it reduce the V8 to a V6? Can't remember now) but that never happened.

Quoted from StagNL

After finding that a T piece did not fit wel, I decided to rely solely on the poil pressure gauge I fitted.... with its very dim illumination.... and a warning light set at 20lbs would be on all the time at low rpm as mine has around 12-15lbs at hot idle.....   been like this for years.... not worried one bit.

Julian

15psi on hot tickover is perfectly normal on a healthy Stag engine, Julian. A 20psi Switch would ensure the light came on every time the engine returned to tickover. The OE switch is set at 6psi ISTR. Triumph must have done that for a reason, their (and Ricardo’s) engineers weren’t entirely stupid.

All Stags left the factory with Vinyl (Ambla) seats. Fabric was not an option. Mk1 front seats have 9 panels of basket weave vinyl, Mk2 have 10 panels.

Quoted from Martins Stag

Thanks for all your input looks like the best option, I think, is the Tony Hart Supergill radiator so I have just ordered one.. I am going to try and run it without an additional electric fan and see how if goes. Another question I do have is  the Thermostat the same as a Spitfire /GT6 and what temperature should it be?

Thanks

Martin

Try this, and read what is written beside each option:http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/.....ge.x=0&image.y=0

It all depends on what inlet manifold you have; Mk1 or Mk2. Don't go on the year of the car, as the manifold may have been changed in the past. I've run an 88 degree 'stat for many years, with a standard radiator, and have NO overheating problems.

countersunk pop rivets

There are couplings that look similar but which work on temperature. Some have a bi-metallic or clutch spring inside. These freewheel at low temps, but engage as the temperature rises. Quite the opposite to the ones fitted to Stags (and some other Triumphs and Land Rovers) which are not affected by temperature, only rotational speed. None of the ones tested in that video were of the Viscous type. The Stag VC uses virtually no power at speed as it freewheels.

Quoted from cliftyhanger

You don't need a fan at all when moving above a walking pace. But when you stop, you ideally want something gently blowing air through the engine bay, way before a "proper" rad fan would kick in.

That is what the original viscous coupled fan is for. It only operates at engine speeds below about 2500rpm. Above that the viscous fluid inside 'sheers' and the fan freewheels. Many owners don't know how it works, or how to test it. This leads to all sorts of problems when it fails, such as overheating when stationary. Fit the original fan, with a good coupling. It is amazing how much air you can feel blowing around your feet when you stand beside the driver's door with the engine running and the bonnet shut.

Alloy radiator in the Stag is purely for 'bling' purposes if you've got plenty of money. Standard radiator is well up to the job if it has a good core and the rest of the block is clear of crap. I've been using standard radiators (either bought from JP or recored locally) for 28 years and getting on for 100,000 miles with no sign of over heating problems.
Copper is better at losing heat than aluminium.

For changing the tyres only, then a jack placed under the trailing arm, right underneath the spring is fine.

The a/c compressor is mounted on the other side on export models. Removal of the p/steering pump only takes a few minutes if you follow the procedure in the manual. The hardest part of a battery change is getting the clamp rods back into their slots, but even so, changing the battery only takes about 15 minutes. And how often is it done? I've only changed the battery about 4 times in 28 years. Not worth the hassle of moving it IMO.

http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/.....ac27a56860d6260ea912

http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/.....ac27a56860d6260ea912

These are the ones you want: http://www.timesert.com A special insert tool locks the inner few threads so that it won't unscrew, and the collar ensures it won't be screwed into the cylinder. They do a Big-Sert for over-sized holes. Not cheap, but they do the job properly.

V-Coil is a slightly cheaper option: http://www.voelkel.com/en/serv.....ndereparatur-en.html

Helicoil inserts are NOT suitable for spark plug repairs due to the fact that they can screw into the combustion chamber. They are meant for 'blind' holes.

The T-bar is attached to the B-posts with a single bolt on each side. The bar attaches to the windscreen frame with a handful of machine screws. I have seen photos of Stags that have rolled and the occupants were unharmed. However, there is no way that it would be suitable as a roll cage for motorsports.

There should be a foam pad around the glove box light switch. This should apply enough spring pressure to open the door when the lock button is pressed, but these pads are often missing, or perished. Even so, getting it adjusted properly is very trying.........

Interesting points raised here. The pressures quoted by Triumph are as above, but I do agree that that front tyres always seem to wear excessively on the outer edges and this would indicate under-inflation. Increasing the pressure in the fronts may well increase the grip as well as improve tyre wear. But the 'law' states that tyres  should be maintained at the manufacturers recommended pressure. In the event of a serious RTC the police phorensic team will certainly check tyre pressures on any vehicle involved so, paradoxically, improving grip by increasing tyre pressure could put you on the wrong side of the law. Tough one...... 🤔

The "Correct" pressure is one that is printed in your owners handbook. OR one that has been recommended by the vendor of the wheels/tyres assuming they have done the research. Stag pressures should be set at 26psi front and 30psi rear. I ran 15" minilite replicas with 195/6015 tyres for several years and the vendors advised me to stick to the same pressures as the handbook.

Glad you are sorted. 🙂

http://www.tyresave.co.uk/revoroad.html#5SPOKE

Quoted from tony66

dont really fancy used tbh-looks like its a new one-was an mot advisory,as well as front balljoint,bit front o/s and rear o/s wheelbearing play
all easy enough with exception perhaps of rear wheelbearing

Fair enough, your choice. However, in 27 years of Stag ownership and over 80,000 miles, I've never known one wear out. New ones aren't available from any of the usual suppliers at the moment. Good luck with your search.