GT6 M

Just a reminder for folk up Norf, that Bo,Ness revival is on this week end, 2-3rd sept
good bigg car show there now too, plus all the cars int paddock

https://youtu.be/aA_VzEYg4FI
https://youtu.be/E0bGmITIHsE
http://www.bonesshillclimb.org.uk/

M

And this darn E stuff is also causing havoc wid the enviroment
some thing the greenies dont want ye to consider,!!!!

M

Yip thats the prob wid a GT wid a heavey 2.5 up frunt
just too much weight for standard dampers,or adjustables  standard an v stiff springs at speed
OK just pottering about though

500 should be perfect on yours Pete
butt, I tink 900,s would shek yer fillins oot, 😲

M

I got some extra stiffy springs, as 650,s i thowt are actually too soft
and no only that, butt, the adjustable  shocker damping just wont cope wid 650s as good as they could.
{manufacturers say the OE are ok for upto 600 max , hence they cannae cope }

as on full adjust for the 650s, ther still  too much poppoising at speeds on bumy b roads
fine on flat a roads. upto warp 1
Butt, ..floated too much for my lik,n at warp 1.3 on smoothe roads, as undulations  get bigger at high warp,!!!

So, got some double adjustable shocks med up,  v v reasonable too, direct frae the manufacturers
thee,s will be valved t,handle the stiffer shocks alot better than the standard adjustables

Also, got the shock bodys an inch less, so as to give some suspensionee  free play, as original type,
that every yan gets is really no good if yer frunts lowered
as 1 inch free play,untill bump stops come into play just aint enough
meb,e sumet for folk t,consider whenst getting new shocks if yer cars lowered

All this cos super stikkee tyres are noo causing havok wid me original set up

got the springs, but shoks are a week t,mek, so cant say wot it,ll be like till I get the shoks an springs fitted
ohh the joys of tinkerate,n !!

M

bung some thread sealer on em,, pipe sealer is ok
never want,n em oot, bung on thread lock

they are a slight taper, well mine wer, so should no go that far in
like just up to the end oft plug

Im suprised that ye got em oot !!!

M

If, and its a bigg IF, ye done what I did whenst repairing the MC, then brakes could bind,

wot I did, was mek an adjustable push rod for the MC
idea was t,get as much ..free play oot the system as possible
butt, just nipped it tooo farr, and the seal ont end of shaft inside the MC, blocked the fluid of frae returning

this aint wot ye done also is it,!!!

Note, its a well wuth wee mod, as the amount of play it can get rid of is Alottttt
so pedal stays at top  most of the time, even under hard brakin


M

Quoted from 1968Vitesse25

So, can we get a fully synthetic oil with enough ZDDP?

and that chart shows just how a multi grade  oil aint actually dooing as its supposed t,doo
thats why I think its better t,go thicker in oor engines.
as it dont tek much for a 20/50W oil t,revert back to its base 20W

as thee,s figs show,its already below what it should be as new
so wots it gonna be like whenst its older,
M

M

forget the mineral oil its not 1970 anymore.
Use fully synthetic.

Says Ian,

  
yip its great stuff,
BUTT, its gotta ev a good dose of ZDDP init
most modern synths aint got it

needed for yer cam an followers

one I use es loadsa the stuff init,  and it odds PSI v v well indeed

M

Oil, try,n use the Penrite stuff, 20'60, its quite decent stuff
and dont go off like quite a few doo efta a while so keeps its pressure

M

Ohhh ive got yan ina better spot than that !!!


M

bottom pad is actually better for even wear rate
as laaler inner area goes where,t slower mov,n disc is

Butt, top pad es,a gas vent slot init


M

Sam, if ye get an elektrikery type, then the senders are smaller
and, the big hex nut, between OPRV an oil pressure switch, it,ll fit into there
as its quite deep, an senders smallish an thinnish too

M

Sorry , link no longer available

M

I look at solly o rings first,
ive just had some very funny goings on
Which ODS and ORS says cannot happen,!!!

Im running 85/140 gear oil int OD, it works perfect
comes in v v quick,even at low revs wen cold
and even better wenst hot

M

Ello Bruce, dont change owt owa just yet

jack back end up,  prefferably wid the susp arms on chocks, so drive shafts are same ish heights, IE, no hanging,if just jacked up

then adjust the brake adjuster, till the wheel will no turn. other wheel will turn, thru the differential.
if it is rumbling when ye run car in gear, say 20 in top, as it,ll be fast enough t,mek a noise, but engine quiet enought t,hear it rumbling.

then its diff end,  nee noise, then its wheel end

Note, yer diff will mek a wee clank,n noise if yer planets are nice an tight., its the diff gears
nowt t,worry aboot.

drive shafts tend t,clonk, as splines wear, but dont rumble
bearings rumble, esp if they had water in em, !!!

M

Clive, did ye read the bit aboot ..bending doon the chassis rail lips
it,ll give another inch,ish
an inch is alott wen ye aint got much int first spot,!!!

M

I tend t, agree wid yer points there
and, why o why are thee,s things so so expensive for what they are,
a deffo case of ripperism in action

tethers alone are 40£ upwards for a wee bit of cloth strap
the devices, range frae  360 - 560
and the helmet posts alone start at 48£ ish

butt, get em frae abroad, they much much less
butt shipping,import tax  meks em dearer

On the last sprint, I did,nt see any one with them at all,
even the single seaters,,  and them that did come a cropper, went side ways off



M

Clive, wot ye need is a center box, aboot 3 3/4- 4 inch or moer across
it,ll fit IF the chassis rails are turned doon wards, which are easy done wid some adjustable spanners, workin yer way along the chassis

OR, and, can squash the sides up a wee bit, so gives even moer room
I squasehed mine up, cos ex pipe kept on wanting t,go to ya side !!

its med mine v v quiet
And, ye can also re pack the rear boxes

Note,me old Falcon boxes, they have a thick tail pipe
wid extra sound deadening bits in there

Most of the wheely barra type,aint got  this
its moer so needed on 4 pots, as it gets rid of that orrid 4 pot rasp,

center box , an mek it as long as ye can
eva ratch thru the album, see wots wot





M

If i recall reet, there was a problemo wid the re made new CW/Ps that were aboot
seemed they wer cut wrong, and could no stop the noise nee matter what was done.

M

Just a slack fit, aboot finger tight
butt, befoer ye bung em in, cut a slot in em
this so a screwdriver can put em in / oot,
makes life so so much easirer when ye want to get cyl head/or mani off

cut wid one blade, then double up,it,ll mek a good slot for yer driver

M

it were thee,s wee thingys ont end
and for good measure, ive just changed ooot the inner ,ns too
the ones ont inner pull rod

M

Update, efta trying diff things, easiest first, non worked
so had t, bite the bullet an pull the trans cover, that is a feat in its sell,
And me 2 piece one, the solonoid nut is well back frae the H frame,
so the lot ed t,come oot

Ont end oft solonoid, there 2 O rings, was think,n that they gon off
an letting oil escape at low pump speeds, which is = t, engine revs/gear speeds /ratios

O rings one ends looked OK,not got scuffs or crumbling,
butt, they wer flattened ont edges quite alott

an slack in their grooves, and measuresd 62 thou thickness
and slid oot the OD wid v v little resistance

bunged on some new O rings, 80  thou thick, and a good fit into OD
hoped it would cure me problemo

Oot for a test drive, should ev took me ear plugs, cos driving a GT wid the tunnel off is v v noisey, and v v drafty too

got over 20 miles,it wer ok
got to 30 miles, OK
got to 40 miles, and OD was really hot, so oil was as thin as it wer gonna get.
and,

Its working great, no dropping doon t, idle on run doon,
nee dropping oot at v v low revs,
teks 2,nd od at 1000 rpms nee bother at all

So, if any you lot suffer the same, check yer O rings, bung  some new,ns on
and a nice tight fit into OD .

M

get yer sell to an agricultural engineers,or farmer mart spot

they always have loadsa unf stuff in
and in oors, ive seen  prop bolts too

M