GT6

The helmet on the blast kit reminds me of some scifi robot.

Your sheet metal skills, by trade or self taught, if the later any tips on how to get there?

Second from left is the only remains of all the old buttons. Bought the ultra high molecular weight polyethylene from amazon.

http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements_files/thrust_button_dwg.jpg

very good page

http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements.htm

Just for completion, fitted the above reg and cured me squirts!

Matt Lewis racing where very helpful and shipped it out to N.Z. quickly.

Just the thing, many thanks.

That sounds right Clive, no regulator fitted. Any recommendations for good regulators that control pressure and allow flow?

On SU HS2 front float bowl, new floats needles and seats. Electric pump with max 3psi.

I was looking over the engine after a run and gave the engine a good rev up and when let off, a brief jet of fuel shot
out of the overflow hole (there is no guard over that one). At all other times it appears fuel tight and requires a
good amount of revs quickly and released before it happens.

What do you reckon is the cause?  

Can the tank from an estate be fitted to a saloon?

Check the float levels are correct, bring back some adjustment to needles by lowering it.

Interesting about the lucas caps, the old rotor I have is lucas as well, so a certain amount interchangeability exists. Would be great if you could find the part number.

The repro cap is a nice snug fit and nothing seemed amiss, next time I go for a hoon I will see if only one part is to blame.

Thanks Doug, which electronic ignition did you go with? The tssc has NOS delco caps but I can not see rotors etc. It seems the distributor doctor sells quality parts for the lucas 25d.

I replaced the dizzy cap and rotor on the spitfire and it ran like a sack of a**holes, refitted the old and all is fine.

Are the new reproduction ones junk or was it just bad luck. Are there suppliers selling the good stuff?

Also I have a lucas dizzy  altered to spitfire spec, are quality bits available for these, as I am thinking of a points replacement kit and it could be wasted if good caps etc are not available for one of the types.

That colour is going to look very nice me thinks :)
yeah I would like to able to turn welds like that

Purring nicely!

I'm guessing the tubing is anti-chafing

The upper ball joint is still loose.I check bearing play with the wheel on gives you more feel, nip it up just enough to take out the play then back off to next castlellation, there should be some play.
Great thread, thanks for all the pics.

I used deionised water from a dehumidifier plus antifreeze in my spitty.

^Mann filter plus adapter and Bob's your mums brother,
[Sorry, link no longer available]

You could make one of these

Appears to be the correct header tank for the mk1. If the car is as described would you reckon that's a fair price in Aussie?

I'm going through the electrics on my spitfire and was intending to add 4 relays in the lighting circuit i.e. LH and RH with dip and hi. Adds a bit of fail safe for not much money.

My experience of using a rear arb on a rotorflex 2.5 GT6 echo's the above. Car had heavy front springs and 7/8ths front roll bar, not enough clearance for road use, but I liked the change in handling for track use.  

Feed it the jandal! Can put up some photos of what you have done?

MUST.NOT.PLAY.WITH.BUT

If you have vernier calipers and measure the depth + thickness of sump at bolt hole = more than length of bolt shank and thread, no worries. Or mark off depth with something thin enough and measure. As you are concerned about stripping the ali I'm sure you won't over tighten  those bolts :)

It is 4 into the alloy inserts isn't it? Measure and check if they are deeper