Encom

Hi. Hope everyone is staying safe and keeping well.

I have a question regarding needles for a pair of CD150's fitted to my Vitesse. Standard they are fitted with 'Natural' springs and 6J needles.

Car now has 'headers', gas flowed intake manifold, velocity stacks (my own compound curved ones) and KN filters.

It seems to be running lean from about 4,000rpm.

Is there a go-to needle/spring combination for a mildly tuned 2litre?

What a great looking car!

Excellent project, looking forward to seeing it progress.

Quoted from Stu 1986

Has anyone used these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GT6-.....3:g:KrMAAOSwA4dWFkVF

I'm looking for something that will stop or reduce the fuel evaporation from happening. It's hard to look cool leaving the somewhere when you appear to stall.

Thanks,
Stu.

I have those fitted, and I added some of the stick on heat shield material on the underside.

This combo seems to work well.

Here is some of it I used on the MX5 to help protect the chassis rail etc from the heat coming off the turbo. I also seen it used in the Nissan R35 GTR GT3 race car engine bays.

Holy ^&%!! The joys of second hand parts.

I have a contact that may be able to help with a replacement. I'll send you a PM if he can.

Photo! I have changed the brake masters to Alcon twin adjustable bias set-up, so no servo. I think it will fit with a servo in place.

Top of my head total cost of master, stainless line and a clutch slave (Nissan, due to the RB25 being fitted) was around $130NZD.

I used a cheap as chips Nissan one. Only had to open up the mounting holes in the bulkhead, and it bolted straight up.

I'll dig out some photos.

Guilty as charged, I have a long nose R200 in my Saloon. But a R160 with Datsun 180B half shafts (using Tri-Dat UJ's) will do the job. The R200 is a bit of an over kill, and weighs a lot more.

Actually the car is for sale

Quoted from josh18

Encom that looks great! Your set up looks a lot simpler than I have seen before. Are the brackets you mounted the diff onto cut down angle iron?
Those pics are definitely going into the memory bank!

The K frame diff extension is cut out and trimmed down angle welded in (by a certified welder) and the R200 housing on the nose tided up with a grinder to ensure a nice fit all round. The rear is a cut down R31 Skyline mount, but could be made up any number of ways. Basically this thing is like a brick dunny, and weighs about the same compared with a R160.

Quoted from StagNL

Here are the pics of my conversion:   https://www.flickr.com/photos/12619047@N04/albums/72157620689843079

Julian

Sounds like there is a market for a batch of those adapter plates for the outputs shafts

The R160 is a great diff, I've run them in my Vitesse's and the Subaru guys thrash the nuts off them. It's only with some serious horse power do you actually need the likes of the R180 or R200.

I just happen to have a R200 longnose kicking around at the time, and I'm running a RB25 in the car (non-turbo) so shouldn't stress the diff at all. With Triumph power levels it would be a walk in the park.

The other point with the R160, is the early ones are come from the likes of the Datsun 180B; hence with the use of the Tri-Dat UJ's and the 180B half shafts its a pretty straight forward swap.

Anyway here are some pic's of a R200 longnose in the saloon K Frame;

Rip it out and whack in a Nissan long nose R200, good for 500hp

Replace it before it lets go and you have an bigger issue.

Cheap insurance in my book.

Now my gearbox / OD are almost, finally ready to put back together after spending months sourcing NOS parts etc. But one questions remain regarding the main shaft.

1. What is the actual difference between a normal main shaft and a heavy duty one?
2. How much of an issue is the tip of the main shaft, and what normally goes wrong?
3. Keep the brass bush in the input shaft or fit a needle roller?
4. Any disadvantages to having a needle roller over a bush?
5. Mk1 gearbox with D type OD, is this bush and/or needle roller the same as the MK2 box ie: P/N: 144782?

Help please! I really, really want to get my Vitesse back on the road.

I fitted one to my Vitesse, and what a pain in the back side. My mechanical fan blades were knackered, so thought it would be a good 'upgrade', but should have stuck with a mechanical one, but used a more efficient blade ie: plastic one if they can be made to fit.

What a great rebuild! Love your work

Since I am now the proud owner of a 1982 TR7 DHC, I thought I would look into replacing the seats with a safer more modern seat (like the MGF seats I have in the Vitesse, a pretty common swap).

There seems to be a lot written around the pro's and con's of this in the TR7/8, and that the factory seats are very good when in good nick, which I totally agree with; but I can't find a definitive thread showing seats that people have installed and feedback as to how they found them in use, too high, too wide etc.

So what has been fitted? what do they look like? whats are the catches to fitting them? pictures please

I have also attached a poll for some of the swaps I have seen (got a funny feeling 'factory' will come out on top on this one).

There is a thread on this in the Herald/Vitesse section.

I have used the R160 conversion on my cars as it bolts in without any cutting etc. A batch has just been done (picture below of what you get) of the rear castings and adapter plates, and I understand it looks like there will be a second batch done in the near future as there has been a fair bit of interest. PM if you are keen and I can put you in contact with the guy organising it.

Pete, cheers. So if I order a 33 tooth one (and a new 21 tooth reverse pinon) I should be sweet.

Would this explain why the change into second was never as good as the others? Had to get it just right for a smooth feeling and sounding changes, the others perfect.

Nick, the T50 looks like a good option, seems a bit smaller then the W50. And I know the T50 fits as I had one behind a 4AGE in a 13/60 saloon.

I tried the W50 in the car this morning, what a lump!!! It seems to fit pretty good, but the bell housing is from a saloon, so will have issues with the clutch mech.

Current thinking is to get the Triumph box sorted, then when it comes time to drop the 2.7 litre engine in do the conversion then.

The Triumph box has its flaws but I do like the way the old girl changes gear. Found it particularly good on the 13/60 wagon.

Okay this question has most likely been asked a 1000 times, but how many variations are there to Vitesse gearbox 1/2 hubs?

I can find new ones with 33 teeth, but mine has 34 teeth.

It also begs the question as to weather or not the 21 tooth reverse pinon I need to order will fit. I assume the the mean diameter of the 33 and the 34 ones are the same?

Please help!

Toyota W50 is starting to look good :)

willowwisp2 here are some MGF mounting brackets that I have used.

That's something that who ever welded up the bottom of my green Vitesse's fuel didn't do. More rusty barrel than tank.

JohnD you have just reduced my donations to the family swear jar when doing engine front ends - cheers :)

Cheers, slightly scary, but now I know I need to pull it out ASAP and have a look. Better order at least a rebuilt kit, and most likely a main shaft.

I have a club run in 4 weeks, so I hope the postage gods are kind to me.

Must be the Gearbox season - anyway 2nd gear in the Vitesse sounds like noisy tappets when coasting along lightly loaded. 3rd same sound just not as loud. 4th no worries, perfectly quiet.

I have noticed the 2nd gear noise has gotten allot more pronounced over the past couple of weeks.

So question being, what's knackered? how bad will it be if I keep driving on it?