firebobby
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Posts posted by firebobby
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On my old original tunnel carpet, there's a piece of plastic that has poppers at each end you push the carpet along the tunnel and then use the plastic band to secure the carpet over the tunnel behind the dashboard
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4058 wrote:
He he, I used to live in marlow many many moons ago! ;)
Used to have a Saturday job at a small garage when I lived in cookham, thats when we had to add the 2 stroke oil in the fuel, from a dispensing machine! Those were the days.
Ah my little lamb, so did you call yourself a Marlowvian :P
Cookham, my car came from there, well that's where it lived for the 1st 20 years of it's life, it came from a garage in Maidenhead :) -
2729 wrote:
Sit down before you ask!
How does £14/gallon 2012 prices grab you?
EEEK!! REALLY !! -
There are still garages that sell 4 star petrol, we have one in Marlow, Bucks, I don't know how much a gallon of the stuff is though
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I would have thought you will get some takers on those John, I see it retains the original lip as well
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Your lucky you didn't get a face full acid, just shows how dangerous batteries can be :-/
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Do you still have any floor left ;)
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Worked OK for me, Bloody noisy things, sandblasters
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michael_charlton wrote:The only warning light originals are red(ign) green(oil) and blue(main beam) in the speedo and green indicator in the centre
In the 70`s there was a fad to add warning lights and switches....................that did nothing :)
What was it like in the 70's, did they live in houses (whistle)(whistle) ;) -
How about a small ratchet strap :-/
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1317 wrote:Wim,
Firebobby has it backwards. Normal procedure is to work from the farthest to the nearest. So, right rear, left rear, right front, left front. This even works on RHD cars as the brake piping layout still makes the RH lines longer. It does no harm to bleed them out of order, but you might have to bleed some twice.
All the best,
Paul
DOH :P :P -
Wim, I think you start at the wheel closest to the MC and work away, I'm sure others will confirm or shoot me down :)
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Inlet/needle valve, that's what I was talking about, all you do is unscrew the screws that hold the float chamber on (a bendy flexy type of screw driver is handy) and gently remove the float cover, this can be done with the carb on the car still. It's easy to do, especially on our cars ;)
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Ah, It may be the inlet valve in the float chamber sticking, some times you can tap the carb and it will make it shut, if not, just unscrew the float bowl and see if the valve is jammed open, if so, give it a wiggle with fresh petrol on it.
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When did you last run the engine
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We have a 4x4 which is used all the time when we have snow, I will be looking at a set for my sons mini though
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So, is it old age then, you know, things droop and head south when they get old....so I'm told ;)
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John, I have checked my tailgate and it appears to be the same as your with a bigger gap at the top'
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I have an old brown Suede jacket, could cut it up and wrap it around the wheel ;)
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Go down the dump and get a thin wheel from an early bm...sorted :)
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No, don't go for nasty wires, like riding a bike, they wobble all over the place ;D, what you need is a good set of 5.5j steels
I found a set that some Muppet had thrown out a while ago :P :P
I'm with you Bradley..Mate :) -
2nd owner :)
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Try Woolies trim, for the seals, I have heard good reports about them.
Have you contacted Prestige to see if they can help you, may be a bad batch or something like that :-/ -
You could try http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/
Mark 3 GT6 restoration - here we go!
in Triumph Chat
Posted
Looking good, are you doing the paint yourself