roger.england

What an excellent colour choice John - looks great. Something to get on with now. 🙂

Great to see the progress you've made John. Are you using wooden drive couplings? 😉

Roger

I've found a reference that suggests them being used on the 1975/76 2500 TC.

Roger

From a couple of Ebay ads in Germany and France its looks like a number of manufacturers used these - Volvo, Austin, Triumph, etc. See link below as an example :

http://www.ebay.fr/itm/SU-Carb.....2:g:HcoAAOSw44BYLxJh

Roger

You'll be camping out in the workshop now then John!

Rolling chassis looks great John, and I love the wheels too. Any news from the painter?

Roger

Its all coming together well John What colour will it be?

Roger

Quoted Text

So, on the road by the Spring......perhaps  

We had a similar problem with a 1937 Railton at the Shuttleworth Collection (a cork clutch running in oil). I know that the wrong oil was used and when replaced with another oil it worked just fine. I'm at Shuttleworth again on Thursday so will ask what oil was used.

Roger

Thanks for that Casper - seems I might as well stay with my existing dizzy then.

Roger

Its very early days yet with only 100 miles since the rebuild. I'll give a few more miles and report back Mark.

Roger

Nothing as far as I can tell Mark but I had heard that the 1500 dizzy was better suited.

Roger

The head has been mildy ported and is running a 10:1 compression ratio. The camshaft is a fast road one - 26/62/62/26 with a 4 into 2 into 1 stainless manifold and a pair of 1 1/4" SUs.

Roger

I've noticed a couple of comments in the past about changing the distributor on an uprated 1200 engine and the potential improvements by using a distributor from a 1500 but haven't seen any definitive comments after this has been done. Can anyone give me the benefit of their experience please.

Thanks - Roger

Thanks for the reply Pete - I had sort of got round to thinking that it may be the seal although the caps are new. (Fluid level was at the correct point). I'll check the seal tomorrow.

Roger

I'm having a continuing problem with fluid loss from the clutch master cylinder. It appears that it is coming out of the cap as the area around the master cylinder is splattered with fluid. This is a new master cylinder coupled to a new slave cylinder. Has anyone any suggestions as to the likely cause please?

Roger

It sounds like you've been supplied the later larger pads (type 14) . I had the same problem with my car.

Having acquired a Vitesse cable I find that it is too short - presumably the throttle pedal to car connection is greater in the Midge. I've now sourced a motorbike cable with a 90 degree crank at the carb end which will do the job nicely once I've made a clamp for the outer cable at the bulkhead end.

Roger

Having acquired a Vitesse cable I find that it is too short - presumably the throttle pedal to car connection is greater in the Midge. I've now sourced a motorbike cable with a 90 degree crank at the carb end which will do the job nicely once I've made a clamp for the outer cable at the bulkhead end.

Roger

Thanks for the tip about fixing the cable Bill - I had pondered on that.

Roger

Thanks for the tip about fixing the cable Bill - I had pondered on that.

Roger

Not sure if there's anything of value here, but a couple of links to Spitfire engine tweaking

http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6572-tuning-1147-6-port/

http://www.jagclub.ru/1147.html

The second link is quite comprehensive.

Roger

If I recall correctly I established the model of my carb by looking at Canley's website.

Roger

I think you'll find that the rims with the smaller gap will fit any small Triumph fitted with disc brakes.

I had a similar problem when I bought 5 1/2 J wheels for my Vitesse. I found that that the two rims with the larger gaps wouldn't fit on the front because they wouldn't clear the calipers. I fitted these to the back and then hunted round for another pair of the smaller gap wheels to get a matching set.

Roger