2009poolesparky

Good morning everyone

I am going to be changing the oils on my car soon. The engine, box and diff.
I have all the oils and filters already, but I can see the engine and box sump plugs are the original square head ones, without magnets.

There are lots to choose from online, varying in price also, but off hand does anyone know what length thread size and pitch it needs to be so I can find a magnetic replacement.

Thanks
Alex

I have a wooden one, complete with centre horn bit and in good condition

How much are these worth? Has anyone ever seen one sell on eBay?

That sounds ok then, the float bowls are set up correctly, I guess it's just trial and error, if worst comes to worst and it doesn't work, then I can sell it on as a refurbished unit

Does anyone know if there is a difference in pumping pressure between a standard mk2 spitfire pump, and an AC glass topped pump for a gt6 mk1?

Thanks guys I am going to try the por15

Sorry Mk2 spitfire

I'm looking to change the original static seat belts to modern inertia ones. Where have people located the reel unit in their cars? Some I've seen are fitted to the wheel arch, but then where does the other two points go? Some photos would be useful.

Thanks

I have a standard mechanical fuel pump on my mk2 spit.

I was wondering if anyone knew where they might sell a glass bowl fuel pump that will fit and work, or one that could be modified to work.

I know the gt6 mk1 and Vitesse mk2 had glass pumps but I'm unsure if it will work.

Any help appreciated

I did flush it through when I first got it, with water, then high pressure air, but the rust keeps forming up on the bottom. A new tank is too expensive

There seems to be a lot of rust debris in my tank. I have fitted an inline fuel filter straight after the fuel line exits the tank, this stopping the whole line clogging up. This inline filter gets blocked up quite a bit, to the extent the car cuts out from fuel starvation. I then open the filter and clean it and away we go. So eventually all the crud will come out.
There seems to be a lot inside, what's the best way to clean the tank thoroughly with it removed from the car?

Many thanks

Yes I was just asking as I'm running out of ideas what it could be now. I have been working on the car, replacing and fixing lots of parts, including overhauling the carbs, they have new jets and AN needles now, new spindles too. The vacuum advance was broken so that was fixed and the weights in the dizzy were free too. I have set the mixture correctly also and the timing is set to 13° btdc. The car seems to idle nicely and rev up well too, but when driving it just feels gutless

Ok thanks, that might be the cause of my sluggish and gutless road tests.
It's a mk2 spitfire 1147cc  1966

I've noticed the springs inside my hs2 carbs have been stretched and this makes it harder for the piston to rise slightly. Will this have a big effect on running and accelerating? What would have originally been fitted if I need to replace them?

Thanks

The car had a wooden gear knob too which matched the wheel, I swapped it back for the plastic ball, but I still have the wooden one. Mark if you can PM me some more details and pictures that would be great

Well I am trying to put the car back to original condition. Mark do you have any photos you could send me please?

This is my wheel at the moment

What was the original steering wheel fitted to mk2 spits? Mine has a wooden one with 3 metal spokes, but I've seen some photos showing a 2 spoke black wheel. Thanks

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4WYY3iDdp0kRl9lVmtQM1VqeTQ

I am still having some mixture problems with my hs2's. But as for the throttle spindles I've been told if you replace these you have to ream out the old bush before you put the new one in. I did some research and there is a guy on eBay that sells them new with a tiny rubber O seal on the ends. You don't need to ream the old bushes out and when you install them just give them a light librication with some oil. Works a treat and stopped all my vacuum leaks. Now I just need to figure out my fueling problems...

I put the multimeter across the sender unit, when it is in a pan of room temp water it reads about 850 ohms and at boiling point it levels off at 59 ohms so it's safe to say it works. Still leaves the question why is my car taking to long to warm up? Roughly how long should it take? As far as I can see I don't have any leaks, and I've flushed all the horrible sludge out of the system too

I have removed the sender unit, it is a smiths one part number TT4802/00 and then is has 226 on the side
Does anyone know what the resistance of these should be, I am getting some resistance but I need to know if it's within tolerance to test with my multimeter.

As I warm it up in the pan of water I can see the resistance dropping but just want to confirm if I can

Thanks guys, it is the optometric system, so I will have a look and find some that suit this. I'm only wondering if they are on the way out as the car is running a bit rough and when I put the timing light on ht lead 1 it is working intermittently.

Haha whoops! You get what I meant

Thanks guys, yes I was referring to which way the jiggle pin should face. The stat opens fairly smoothly, I noticed before I dismantled and cleaned it. It wasn't shitting all the way due to a deformed seat, so I've straightened it out again now. Seems to be warming up a bit quicker now too