john2502

Well worth the money in my opinion, JY Classics installed the Canely version on my car a few years ago and i'm more than pleased with it!

As Nick says Canleys are no longer doing them so from Rimmer Bros may be the last few sets and the best way to get them while they still have some, I'd double check they are the Canley ones but i reckon they are as they seem to have copy and pasted the text from the Canley site across.

p.s I do not work for Canley or Rimmer Bros 🙂

Personally I'd stick to Superflex, the ones I have on my car (road use GT6 that has lived on the drive March-Nov 3 years) have seen a decent amount of use and still looks perfectly fine. I'm sure there are others out there that will work but I feel with superflex you know what you're getting.

Ooooo, looking good John!

Like that a lot, yeah now you get to put all the shiny bits on it! 🙂

Look forward to seeing it when it comes back John, hope you are well.

Very much enjoying watching this progress.

Looks great! Patience pays off when it looks that good at the end. Nice work.

Wish i had these kind of skills, one day....

Another vote for superflex here.

John

Just seen this today, excellent! Very much look forward to seeing it as it progresses.

Cheers will take a look.

As promised picture of the ding. Imagine not easy to pull back out as kind of a corner shape but will see what a pro says winter time.

Not easiest to see but hey.

Hi all.

So on the way to work the other day a nice suicidal pheasant decided to end it all by dashing out and in front of the GT6. Inspected the damage (suspected there would be some as was pretty decent size and made a nice crunch as it went under the wheel) and passenger side front quarter valance is nicely dented with paint having come off too a bit.

Just looking at decent quality possible replacement panels as an option, Canley seem to have them for £100ish but not in stock,

Just looking at options as may be able to pull the dent out and repaint for cheaper (would like to keep original panel if poss) but thought i'd check if people know of a supply of decent panels too.

Cheers in advance

pictures to follow if it stops raining out there today as don't fancy getting soaked on my lunch break.

Quoted from ham204

Thanks for this but it does not seem to be compatible with the Mk4 (or GT6 for that matter)

If you are using the dropdown menus on the eBay ad that relies on the seller listing all the different compatible makes/models i believe (easy enough when it only fits a few, not so much when it could be fitted to a whole variety of classics)

I'm sure this was the one people had fitted to theirs but would wait for someone to confirm part number. I'm sure both would work perfectly fine in their own slightly different ways.

As said intertia switch would put my mind at ease and be safe/recommended.

If my mechanical one on the GT6 ever packs up I would fit this as heard good things (and heard too many issues with the repro replacement mechanical ones)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL.....15%26pid%3D100276%26

Facet one looks good too. Pays your money, takes your choice. 🙂

Interesting stuff and will be interested to see the findings you guys get.

I have never had any issues at all with the GT6 and fuel vapourisation and I've driven, stopped/re-started in hot weather and heaving traffic quite a fair amount over the last couple of summers of almost daily driving without this happening once.

Yes the cab gets quite toasty and the temp gauge does go up a bit but the car hasn't even stuttered. Running a standard fuel pump (which i think is the original or very close to the same age!) standard fuel line routing as well as standard carbs and airbox setup. Only difference being that it has aluminium radiator cowl/valences as opposed to the card ones (can't imagine this makes much of a difference)

I run on standard 95 unleaded from either Shell or BP and seems totally fine.

It used to happen sometimes on the mustang i had but that was cured with a phenolic spacer between the manifold and carb, quite a different setup though that

Good little mod that, as the GT6 lives on the drive and is now back to being used every day I can confirm this happens a lot. haha.

I would add another vote for CV conversion long term. Really happy with the Canley classic set I have and I never have to think about the couplings ever again. Just my 2p.

Clive, yes I have a feeling they are quite old. Not in too bad shape but I'd feel more comfortable with something fresh on there in all weathers again.

Torn between the Yokohama and Falkens. Falkens don't have good fuel economy but would be better in the wet. No idea on the real life difference between the ratings.

Cheers guys, been very helpful. Either will be better than what's there I'm surr

Cheers guys, sounds like it would be good to go with that size, suspect it will be a change but sounds good to me if it gives same RR as factory spec.

Yes I was trying to decide between Yokohama Blue Earth, Toyo NanoEnergy 3 or The Falken SN832 (tempted by the wet grip rating as you say Nick and I've got Falkens on my modern which I'm very happy with). hmmmm

Cheers for your input guys.

Hi all.

So with the winter service work finally done yesterday (been a busy few months) i need to get 4 new rubber shoes for the old gal so i can start using daily again.

I seem to remember seeing most suggest 175/70/R13 as a good all rounder and is a very common size so lots of well priced options.

Weirdly my current tyres dont have all the numbers I'd expect on them (not sure if it is an age related thing!). They read: Dunlop SP Sport 82S 165 SR 13. So has the 165 width and 13 rim size but no profile. Weird.

Anyway, just looking for confirmation that is the best size and any brand recommendations, ideally one that blackcircles sell! haha.

Always a good idea. Got my engine one from Canleys for the GT6. Can't help with dimensions I'm afraid but seemed a nice well made item at a good price.

http://www.canleyclassics.com/engine/magnetic-drain-plug

Cheers Don, have ordered one as even if isn't the wire I'll probably replace while there anyway.

Thanks for the info guys. Will let you know how I get on!

Yes that's it Bruce! I had totally forgotten to mention my couple of electric shocks, haha, i laughed so hard the second time. Both were when i had my other arm out the window slightly (hot days at the end of the summer, I'm not that much of a wide boy!....) and i believe when i switched the O/D off. so i guess instead of the current going through the switch when i turned it off it decided i was a fun alternative to go through.

Interesting sounding mod Tim, thanks for pointing out. Here's the link for anyone interested. Reckon i'll keep standard for now and might see if i can work something in that will avoid this happening at least for as long as possible with the existing setuo when i get it apart.

http://www.bighealey.co.uk/aus.....drive-switch-cels123

Cheers!

Hi all,

So couple of little electrical bits to sort on the car over the little winter break.

Firstly, I think i need to renew the wire for the overdrive on the gear stick (GT6 MK3) as whenever i am in 4th without O/D it sort of clicks and sounds like it's trying to enable so i get a quite quick click click click click as i go along. I assume this is just that the wire inside has chafed through and is trying to enable when the gear stick is in that position. How do i start taking this apart? Or does it sound like something else?

Secondly, when running the car up last time i was tried to scare the crap out of my mum tidying the garage but the horn has stopped working, which are the steps to go for first?

I know they're fairly simple and i have a bit of an inkling where to start just wanted to check.

Thanks

John

No experience of doing this (mostly as I have a GT6) but think some people on here have fitted the Canely one's and seem good? That's what I'd do personally and who I'd go to.

http://www.canleyclassics.com/heating-and-cooling/spitfire-full-width-radiator

But i'll let someone who's actually done it confirm.

Fitted the spin on oil filter adaptor 2 years ago to the MK3 and done two changes since then and a fair few miles on the GT6 now. Very easy and been all good

I get my filters from Wins International who are great and just down the road from my parents, is a Unipart GFE 180.

http://www.winsintltd.co.uk/

Not a great picture but it fitted to the car.



A while ago found a list of the equivilant part numbers, cant vouch for it though

UNIPART     GFE180
MANN      W71243
MANN      W7124310
MANN      W7143
VALEO     586023
VALEO     586067
BOSCH     0451103298

Would recommend Timkin, got mine from eBay at a good price for the GT6.

Like said, Worth a bit of inspection first as like the guys say it may well not be the bearings at all. Jack the car up and give the wheel a spin to see if you can hear where it is coming from, if inside the hub try taking the bearings and hub off and inspect them, may just need a re-grease of if worn replace.

Video i found useful which details the procedure for replacing. Worth doing both sides if the case, hate this job as i always get grease everywhere, is like watching mr bean do it or something!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVtU6Q2-Z4g&sns=em

Luckily I have an original mechanical one as from what I hear of the newer ones I am glad is still running well (touch wood)!

I had a look around a while ago at electric pumps just in case and, from research (and comments on here) it seemed this would be a good option. You've probably seen about the recommendation of fitting an inertia cut off switch too.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3607.....e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Personally I'd blank it off but each to their own i guess.